RH47 installers in Gen I's
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
RH47 installers in Gen I's
Ok who's done this... How about some details..
1) I put new cab mounts on the truck.. but the new adapter looks aweful close to the fire wall. Did it fit? Did you shim the cab up another 1/4 inch? Did you beat the floor/firewall weld seam down flat?
Comeone details! Pics?
2) I'm doing a D250. Did you re-use the stock trans mount with 1st gen crossmember and re-drill the frame??? Did you use the second gen mount and modify the cross member??? Come one- anyone got a picture??
3) Frame rail modification- ppl said about 1/4. But nothing was mentioned that the brake and fuel lines need to be moved as that's RIGHT where they come up on my D250. Looking at mine that is the UPPER flange on the C- channel.
Sincerely
Michael
1) I put new cab mounts on the truck.. but the new adapter looks aweful close to the fire wall. Did it fit? Did you shim the cab up another 1/4 inch? Did you beat the floor/firewall weld seam down flat?
Comeone details! Pics?
2) I'm doing a D250. Did you re-use the stock trans mount with 1st gen crossmember and re-drill the frame??? Did you use the second gen mount and modify the cross member??? Come one- anyone got a picture??
3) Frame rail modification- ppl said about 1/4. But nothing was mentioned that the brake and fuel lines need to be moved as that's RIGHT where they come up on my D250. Looking at mine that is the UPPER flange on the C- channel.
Sincerely
Michael
Trending Topics
#8
#9
My 92 D250 needs new cab mounts I beet the weld seam flat . I was told that the 2nd gen mount would work by drilling new holes in the cross member after I cut and welded up the cross member to work with the stock 93 mount. as for the fuel and brake all I had to do is move the one brake line a little. one more thing no one tell you is that the shifter frame mount needs to be moved back. what I did is put the front mount hole in the rear frame hole and drill a new hole for the rear hole. my linkage needs to be a little longer it just works it would be better if it was 1" longer. I wired my lockup thru a pressure switch at frist things didnt work right it would stay locked up if you came to a stop lite. This is not good its just like coming to a stop lite and not pushing in the clutch on a stick. this is not good as you could have valve body troubles if you forget or let someone else drive your truck I found this out the hard way mid nite budy driving the gets off the freeway and forgets to unlock the converter and blows the valve body up 300 miles from home with 4 lathes and milling machine plus all the tooling on the truck and trailer. get the valve gone so that it will work with the pressuer switch I had my valve body done now it will down shift when it is locked up. I have been told some trany will down shift when locked up and some wont. Ken
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
I've got it in.. but not running yet. I wired the 3 plug- blue old wire as power to the center new one. Front wire goes for OD lockup to existing red? wire. Then the back plug wired into the TC lockup.
The front braket for the linkage was easy. I elongated the holes slightly but when it didn't seem like it was free to move, I simply put a 12 inch adjustable wrench on the transmission side and bent or twisted it slightly so it aligns well.
The crossmember- I stayed with the gen 1 mount. Cut the after part where it mounts to the mount-out and re-welded about 1.25 back. Boxed it back together nicely with scrap. There was an intermediate piece got tossed. The front mounting point got welded to the flange. Then, a slotted hole.
Upper bolts were way easier than other things I've worked on.. I put a o-ring on the upper bolts. Got a fat enough one but it fits the hole. THe oring holds it just enough so they don't fall out. But you can tighten them up quickly.
I've got the gen 1 dipstick tube bent out a bit. I have a gen 2 tube which is longer- going to re-bend it a bit with a conduit bender @ lowes. Try and go exactly like the gen 1, but make it come up a bit. It's a foot longer which is nice for adding fluid and checking level.
I found the correct cloth loom tape... Mercedes uses it and it's available at the dealership for $7/roll.
that's a cool trick to use a th350 mount! That would have saved a big favor getting a friend to do the welding.
The front braket for the linkage was easy. I elongated the holes slightly but when it didn't seem like it was free to move, I simply put a 12 inch adjustable wrench on the transmission side and bent or twisted it slightly so it aligns well.
The crossmember- I stayed with the gen 1 mount. Cut the after part where it mounts to the mount-out and re-welded about 1.25 back. Boxed it back together nicely with scrap. There was an intermediate piece got tossed. The front mounting point got welded to the flange. Then, a slotted hole.
Upper bolts were way easier than other things I've worked on.. I put a o-ring on the upper bolts. Got a fat enough one but it fits the hole. THe oring holds it just enough so they don't fall out. But you can tighten them up quickly.
I've got the gen 1 dipstick tube bent out a bit. I have a gen 2 tube which is longer- going to re-bend it a bit with a conduit bender @ lowes. Try and go exactly like the gen 1, but make it come up a bit. It's a foot longer which is nice for adding fluid and checking level.
I found the correct cloth loom tape... Mercedes uses it and it's available at the dealership for $7/roll.
that's a cool trick to use a th350 mount! That would have saved a big favor getting a friend to do the welding.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post