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replacing head gasket

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Old 10-05-2017, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by KRB
Cleaning those out made me paranoid. I used q-tips and compressed air but worried about blowing all the crud into some other critical orifice. Used lots of rags and tape and sweat. All worked out OK.

Did you decide to use studs?
Here is one of life's hacks I drilled a small hole in the crevice tool to my shop vac about an inch from the tip. I then inserted the long blow gun tip through the hole until it hit the bottom of the stud hole. Making sure the crevice tool was in contact with the head and the vac was running I then pulled the trigger on the air and slowly removed just the blow gun from the hole. I did each hole twice and a rag cleaned up the oil. I am now changing springs and seals on the head. I should have the head back on the block this evening.

The coolant leak is right at the dowel sleeve. I wonder if it is too long for the holes???
Old 10-06-2017, 04:54 AM
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That is genius!

Surely the dowel isn't too long. Did you measure? The holes are usually plenty long. Besides, how many miles did you run it before it did leak?

Wait, dowel sleeve? is that the same as locating pin?
Old 10-06-2017, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Boatnik
Here is one of life's hacks I drilled a small hole in the crevice tool to my shop vac about an inch from the tip. I then inserted the long blow gun tip through the hole until it hit the bottom of the stud hole. Making sure the crevice tool was in contact with the head and the vac was running I then pulled the trigger on the air and slowly removed just the blow gun from the hole. I did each hole twice and a rag cleaned up the oil. I am now changing springs and seals on the head. I should have the head back on the block this evening.

The coolant leak is right at the dowel sleeve. I wonder if it is too long for the holes???
Anything that sucks and blows at the same time is OK in my book.
Old 10-06-2017, 11:52 AM
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HA! All that talk about camping out in the bed of your truck has you thinking non-truck stuff Edwin...
Old 10-06-2017, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by KRB
HA! All that talk about camping out in the bed of your truck has you thinking non-truck stuff Edwin...
Tell me about it...don't stroke out, Edwin!
Funny, in the last week Edwin you went from yokes and u-joints, to parking problems, to getting cozy in the bed of the truck, and now to some nasty two step combo of sucking and blowin! You're funny, Edwin.
Old 10-07-2017, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by KRB
That is genius!

Surely the dowel isn't too long. Did you measure? The holes are usually plenty long. Besides, how many miles did you run it before it did leak?

Wait, dowel sleeve? is that the same as locating pin?
The dowel was fine. The hole in the head is straight through and you could shove the dowel all the way out the top.
Old 10-07-2017, 09:04 PM
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After a late start, the head is back on, torqued and the valves set. I had help today. The guy is very much a perfectionist. We torqued the head in five steps making sure all the studs were equal before going to the next level. On the last pass I about had a heart attack when the nut I was torquing began to ease up like it had stripped or broke. Thank goodness it was the 3/8 drive extension that gave up. A quick trip to the store and I got the right stuff to finish. I do not know what the studs are made of but at 125 ft:lbs of torque they all held on. LAshed the valves at .020 exhaust and .010 intake as per the FSM. Tomorrow weather permitting I will reconnect all the lines, wires and install the exhaust manifold, turbo, cooler, radiator and brand new condenser.
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Old 10-07-2017, 10:35 PM
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Thanks for the update, Boatnick. I've been following this tread
Old 10-08-2017, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Boatnik
After a late start, the head is back on, torqued and the valves set. I had help today. The guy is very much a perfectionist. We torqued the head in five steps making sure all the studs were equal before going to the next level. On the last pass I about had a heart attack when the nut I was torquing began to ease up like it had stripped or broke. Thank goodness it was the 3/8 drive extension that gave up. A quick trip to the store and I got the right stuff to finish. I do not know what the studs are made of but at 125 ft:lbs of torque they all held on. LAshed the valves at .020 exhaust and .010 intake as per the FSM. Tomorrow weather permitting I will reconnect all the lines, wires and install the exhaust manifold, turbo, cooler, radiator and brand new condenser.
Reminds me of
Doing the heads of a Chevy small block. Your arms feel like spaghetti afterward.
Old 10-11-2017, 06:12 AM
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All the fuel lines are installed but I left the jumpers loose at the injectors to purge the air from them. I had to cut off the old hoses that I used as couplings to the intercooler. I wish now that I didn't so I could reuse them. I use marine grade exhaust hose instead of those high dollar bellows to connect the turbo and intercooler to the engine. The only hiccup was West Marine only had the hose with the wire. Very difficult to get it to ride over the bead on the connector tubes. However it is done. Only thing left is the coolant system and the A/C. I am replacing the condenser and the dryer.
When I started the reinstall the exhaust manifold which, is a nice flowing after market piece, I decided to match port the T3 flange. I took out about a 1/4 inch material on one side of each port to match the 16 cm2 turbo exhaust housing. When I road test I will see if that makes much difference. I left the head alone. Time and weather always against me on these projects.
Old 10-11-2017, 06:27 AM
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One thing i didn't mention on the head install. There is no way possible to install the studs prior to installing the head on my truck. The head hit the cowl. So I had to check the stud height and then remove them for final installation. I used plenty of ARP thread lube on every fastener during reassembly. I am not a chemist but it looks like Molybdinum disulfided antiseize.
I used my engine lathe to counter bored the stud holes .200 inch deep by 1 inch diameter in the rocker arm pedestals to get the clearance for the valve covers. Worked great.
Old 10-11-2017, 01:45 PM
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Just finished the test drive. Couple minor leaks not worth mentioning. It is a big relief getting this done. Thanks to all for your encouragement and support. It was a big help.
l especially want to thank my closest friend and neighbor KW for the help he gave me torquing head and setting the valves. He isn't a member but he would fit right in with the rest of us.
I will monitor this thread for a while in case there are any questions or comments. Thanks again.
Old 10-11-2017, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Boatnik
Just finished the test drive. Couple minor leaks not worth mentioning. It is a big relief getting this done. Thanks to all for your encouragement and support. It was a big help.
l especially want to thank my closest friend and neighbor KW for the help he gave me torquing head and setting the valves. He isn't a member but he would fit right in with the rest of us.
I will monitor this thread for a while in case there are any questions or comments. Thanks again.
Glad it's done. Did you and KW have spaghetti arms after torquing those head fasteners?
Old 10-11-2017, 03:48 PM
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What refrigerant did you fill into your A/C system? Back to R12?
Old 10-11-2017, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by edwinsmith
Glad it's done. Did you and KW have spaghetti arms after torquing those head fasteners?
Still do, It has been a long time since we had to double team a torque wrench. We both used to work in maintenance at a power station.


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