OK, just to make sure, for my W250, 8510# GVWR and 6080# rear axle, I should get the following wheel bearings?;

Outer bearing LM104949, outer race LM104911, or together as SET 38.

Inner bearing BR45291, inner race BR45220, or together as SET 416.

The above is listed as "except 9000# GVW, assuming SRW?

Or inner bearing BR28682, inner race BR28622, or together as SET 407.

The above is listed as 9000# GVW, assuming dually?

OK, now the seal;

Timken 417158

Spindle nut, Dorman 615139 OK?

Now for wheel studs! Listings are based on axle weight rating and none are 6080#. Closest is 6200#. Is 6200 for the dually? Some parts have sizes, most don't. Do I want longer studs for the alloy wheels? Some listings show 1 3/4" length and there's a 2 1/8" one.

Thanks guys

 

Big red- I've got to head down to the local Costco off of 65. When I get back, I'll check this post. If you received no responses, or told everyone you already ordered the parts, I'll get you some numbers. This would be for my 1993 single rear wheel Dana 70 axle.

I should be back and unpacked in about four hours

 

Sent 416 is incorrect for a dana 60/70.


​​​​​​I would chase the studs unless they are bad. Big head to hold the drum on. I measured mine at 2.0625. Best match is a 610348 dorman.

 

Per this list, use the 611-154 lug nuts. Dorman

 

https://www.napaonline.com/p/BK_7769135
2 9/16 Hub socket (776-9135)

 

don't the parts stores have the info

 

I never trust them anymore. I always get my own part #s now. Seems they always give me the wrong part and then I have to wait for the right part to come from the warehouse.

 

Here you go big red. Too many numbers to list, so I sent you a pic of my notes, showing a diagram of the parts with arrows pointing to each part and the part number listed. If anything is unclear, let me know.

All my parts are from Orileys.

 

Been there done that too many times. Sometimes it's hard to blame them entirely. They are trying to decipher what the 'puter is showing them. Do a search on their website and too many options that are irrelevant based on search parameters. Counter guy is dealing with the same crap. So you have to wade through it at the counter. Besides, Bart loves his stuff too much. I hear he's got a real nice shop/warehouse full of cool rides. I can't afford to pay 50 to 100% more. I needed to do an oil change on the Bleep Cherokee but didn't have oil from Wallyworld so got 6 qts of high mileage no synthetic, came to $33 just for oil. I felt violated! $8 for 2 feet of 1/4" fuel hose. $5 for a rubber diff plug for the Bleep. Ouch

OK back to parts. There's agreement on the bearings, and the seal. Can probably re-use the spindle nut. I thought that when you replace the drum you're supposed to replace the wheel studs because they can come loose. Did have that happen on a couple on my old Scout.

 

I've reused my studs on new drums. Now, you want to talk expensive, those freakin wheel studs are expensive!

I wouldn't reuse that spindle nut, the one with the nylock in it. Those are cheap. Replace them, or get the ones from PartsMike, the kit that comes in a set of 3 pieces, made to lock that spindle down. It's what's in your front axle.
BigRed- you know PartsMike is located in Auburn, off of Airport road, right?

 

I'd If you have epoxy paint- you can put a little on the studs. Be noted that these trucks are lug centric and not hub centric. So in reality, those wheel studs hold the drum on center. On my Centric brand drums, the holes are oversize.. so it doesn't perfectly center.

Ideally, you should press them on and pull up the bearings to no-slack, but a dial indicator on the drum and center it within 0.005 thousands of an inch. Not hard, but it does take time. This way your brakes wont be lumpy and you don't have to turn the drums on the hubs to center them. If your going to turn them idealy, green castings warp. You should get some heat cycles on them or cryotreat them first.

New locking nuts are very tight to install. I set the bearing clearance down to the bottom part of the tolerance as they are new. Auto parts store was more on the locking nuts- but they came with a life-time warentee.

I did all new Timken bearings got some on amazon and some on rock.. CR/SKF seal The price really varies by quite a bit.

 

They moved to Nevada street. Across from the library on the right side of the body shop.

 

They did?? Since when? What was wrong with that other spot? Mark, can you post up a link to BigRed, on those 3 piece dana60/70 axle locks? You've done it before on other posts. I don't know how to do that. I know, you showed me at the Mexican restaurant, but I can't remember, LOL!

 

Here's what I installed on my D/W250 rear diffs.

Dana 60
======
hub seal: 24917 (skf)
inner bearing/race: set38
outer bearing/race: set38

Dana 70/71
=======
hub seal: 417158 (national)
inner bearing: 28682 (national)
inner race: 28622 (national)
outer bearing/race: set 38

EDIT: IMO, upgrade to 9/16" studs if you're replacing them.