Ok guys so I decided the homemade kelderman setup just wasn't going to fit quite like wanted so I procured a set of 3/4ton 63" Chevy springs.

I am trying to decide on a rear hanger and so far I think my easiest option is to bolt a piece of angle to the frame( sticking out at the top of frame) and the bolt a Dom bushing to that and use flat shackles. My question for you guys is: do you think 3/8 steel angle strong enough without gussets?

Mcknittle?

 

Why not re-install OEM rear hangers? They are available new.

 

The short answer is I'm doing a shackle flip

 

This is the easiest way, and No i dont think 3/8" is enough with gussets.

Dodge rear spring shackle flip hangers - Dodge Ram, Ramcharger, Cummins, Jeep, Durango, Power Wagon, Trailduster, all Mopar Truck & SUV Owners. Dodgeram

 

BILTIT I'm stuck in between I mean if you look at some of these 3/4 ton mounts there paper thin.. What if I jumped to 1/2"(this would actually be a t shape not angle and would also get bolted on top frame rail in addition to the typical 4 bolts on the outside of the frame rail)? The farthest point of stress is aprox. 4.1875 outboard the frame but as close as 1" or 5/8" from the leg of angle bolted to the frame.

 

When I switched to 60" x 3" 2ndgen springs, I simply flipped the rear hanger upside down. I'm less worried about the hanger strength than the shackle itself. I have Ford ones going in next... they're about twice as thick material.

 

U2slow,

How much lift did you net in the rear? Just by looking I assume I wouldn't gain the 4-5" I need to match the front... I also assumed it wouldn't fit under the bed...

 

i re-mounted the front hanger lower. mine were wasted away anyway, and had to move them anyhow for the longer leaf.

i went from d70 to d80 at the same time without cutting the driveshaft down.

 

I installed the front hanger about 4" lower on the frame. I set the rear hanger to keep a decent pinion angle.

I lost 1-2" with the 2ndgen block, but it works well with my 2+" front leafs. I'm sitting 2" higher in the rear than the front, so when I have load in the bed the truck sits level.

 

More than one way to skin a cat I know, but why not just grind off the perches and reweld them to the correct pinion angle so you can leave the factory springs hanger mount location up front after the shackle flip?

Also, I like your thinking. There are many young gentlemen around this area driving trucks with "leveling kits" that make the truck sit nose high if any groceries are in the back. They can be identified with baseball caps that have flat bills on them, often still retaining the store shelf decal. Other common varieties include "Hurley" and/or "DC" decals in the rear window. I could go on but I probably said more than I should I hope no one is offended.

 

Papecat, I'm swapping in 63" chevyies so the front mount has to move as well. I absolutely hate a$$ raked trucks but I do want this to sit fairly level. Maybe a inch high in the rear but no more..

 

Why change the perches and shorten the driveshaft when you can simply change the hangers? Now my truck fits any 2ndgen D80 without mods.... ;-)

 

I'm not changing my perches; the only real diff between my build and yours is I'm not reusing my rear hanger and I'm keeping a 2.5" wide spring so my front hanger will work as designed and so will the ubolt setup(off course I'm getting new ubolts)

 

Point well taken , U2slow

 

It sounds like your wheelbase is going to grow by 6-7" with keeping the front hangers and adding the longer leaf... or am I missing something?

EDIT: I re-read again and see you're moving the front hanger. Beware... I thought mine were ok too until I started removing them. You might not have anything to remount.