Rear main seal install problems

I Decided to replace the rear main seal while the transmission was out.
I drilled the two 3mm holes to remove the old seal and in the process of doing so,
I got into the seal retainer with the drill. I installed the new seal using the
driver tool. While doing so using a hammer to drive it into place, the seal went in deeper
on one side. I couldn't get it to straighten up.
I decided to remove the new one and start over. This time i got into the crank shaft with the drill.
I went to the Cummins store and got a wear sleeve with complete with a seal.
The install intruction in the kit showed to use a special tool to install the sleeve.
This showed using the tool with two bolts into the crank, turning the bolts 1/2 turn increments
to press the sleeve onto the shaft.
I went to the hardware store and got four 12mm x 125 x 1.5 inches long with two washers for
each bolt. Placing the washers on each bolt, I put these on the end of the crank spaced evenly.
I did also get four nuts to screw onto the bolts so that I could turn the nuts iagainst the washers.
The sleeve had a taper on the inside that went on the shaft first and was tapered on the outer end
so that the seal could be slid onto the shaft in case of the need to do so.
But the instructions said not to seperate the seal from the sleeve. I installed the two pieces
as a unit without seperating them.
I filled the damaged seal retainer with the grey silicon stuff.
My problem now is that when I put the flex plate onto the shaft and hand tightened the bolts,
the tabs that center the plate do not want to slide onto the crank because the sleeve is about 1/16
inch in the walls.

My question is; does the install tool push the sleeve onto the crank a little further to compensate
for this.
The sleeve is tapered so that the tabs might slide onto the crank when I tighten the bolts?
Has anyone installed the wear sleeve that ran into this problem?

It is critical for the flex plate to be centered with the tq fastened to it. How much run out is allowed?

Thanks,
Tom

 

how about some photos. might help

 

You can grind away the extra sleeve that sticks out from the crank as long as it is on far enough for the seal to work properly. Remove any burs with a file or sandpaper when finished.

I always use a torch to heat the sleeve red hot and push them on by hand. They will drop in place and shrink to fit.

My question is why did you drill the old seal when you could have removed the flange and driven the seal out?