any of you other first gens have bad rear end up when u stand on it? Most of the time when Im playing around and stand on the go pedal she will go for a bit then it will start violently shaking in the rear end and i have to let off of her. Its kinda big bummer when you gotta let off cuz its ready to throw the rear end out . What would be a solution to help solve this problem? traction bars? panhard bar? any help is appreciated

 

How are your shocks? Once the leaf spring loads and unloads from the initial loud pedal stomp, it takes a good set of shocks to quiet the resonation in the spring pack. For the record, a 'shock absorber' is actually a combination of a spring and a damper. The spring supports the load and provides articulation while the damper keeps the spring from resonating like a guitar string....fwiw

 

It sounds like your truck is just barely fighting to hold traction, when I lay into it in my truck it easily smokes the tires past the point of putting any power to the ground, but once the truck catches up with the wheel speed it gets pretty bad wheel hop as the tires start to fight for traction again. I plan on buying a bracket kit from Super-Trac for my truck and then building the actual traction bars out of some mild steel tubing with 3/4" heim joints on each end, this should keep the axle rap under control during high boost launches at the track with the slicks

http://rockymountainsusp.com/tractionbars.htm

 

I don't think they are too good, haven't been replaced for a good couple years. Will they actually help a fair bit? what would you recommend for a good shock? I don't know much about shocks or suspension thanks for the info guys

 

I think a good shock would help a fair amount. Like rockjeep said, you're fighting for traction at that point and anything that helps keep the axle/tire planted to the pavement is worth looking at. How are your motor/tranny mounts? allowing the engine/tranny combo to rock back and forth against the rest of the driveline is another way tire/clutch chatter rears its ugly head. My tranny mounts are shot and I have similar troubles. Just for kicks, I fabbed up some solid mounts and tried them for a couple days. Definitely not what I'd want for a street truck---you could feel the injectors pop off in the seat of your pants! But talk about direct power transfer--almost all of my driveline associated chatter was gone. Something to think about anyway.

 

im pretty sure the motor mounts are still good but i have no clue about the tranny mount. any one know what an ideal shock for my application? thanks

 

Yeah, what those guys said (with a little more detail).

When you take off your axle is literally trying to drive under the truck, obviously the springs are what prevents this but they do give in some.

What happens is the springs "S" shape to some degree. The rear portion of the spring pack straightens out as it stretches, the front portion arches upward as it compresses.
At some point the springs rebound, and kick the axle backward which causes the hop. The process repeats quickly.

This is huge problem for offroaders running big tires and flexy suspensions.
Ways to prevent this is to construct an "anti wrap" bar as offroaders call it.
Guys that tractor pull and/or drag race call them ladder bars (and usually have one on each side of the axle).

This bar connects on the axle assembly at 2 points (minimum), one high and one low. The front of the bar connects to the frame (usually near the T-case output. This end has to have pivot connection (heim joint, johnny joint, shackle, or bushing) to allow the ladder bar to move up/down and rotate to some degree to allow the rear axle to articulate.

This setup prevents the axle from rotating and causing spring wrap. Traction bars that bolt to the spring pack reduce the reverse arching of the front portion of the spring pack.

This may not make a whole lot of sense without a picture, so hopefully someone will post a picture so you can see what we are talking about.

 

i've seen the guys with the big ladder bars at the pulls. how much do u think it would be to get some one to fab some up for me?

 

You could probably by bolt ons cheaper than you could pay someone to fab them.
I would look at a few different ones to get a good idea what you need/want before jumping into it.

 

I don't have the exact same problem but I have a real bad wheel hop problem in the snow. I mean real bad. I had it with stock shocks and with the Rancho's. I don't get it on dry pavement but it's a pain in the butt to have to get out of the throttle while trying to get through the snow and loose your momemtum. Wish I could figure it out. Oh and that's with a full load of tools in my cross box 90 gallons of fuel in the transfer tank and fifth wheel mounted in the bed.

Who makes bolt on traction bars?

 

http://rockymountainsusp.com/tractionbars.htm

 

Before adding any aftermarket parts, I would be sure that there are no worn bushings anywhere. The motor and trans mounts as previously stated, also the spring mounts, and the shocks as mentioned. If the suspension is as-new and you still have wheel hop, then it's time to look at aftermarket suspension aids. There are some spring suppliers that sell new leaf springs as a kit with mounting kits that include everything you need for the installation.