So I shouldnt complain because they've worked well for 3 yrs and many others havent but its annoying. E brake and all other maintenance is perfect-plenty of slack and full travel adjusters and springs correct and working as good as can be-but sometimes the drums are cold and other times warm to hot. Going to put new shoes in and turn drums and dont want to glaze them. Years of good flushes etc so fluid not issue. pedal height correct with good adjustment verified while off the ground. Does it on both sides evenly so its prolly not both cylinders no leaks and no obvious rust under rubber-used to wrench so used to bad ones and how to spot. Could the one piece of rubber from junction to t block really not allow full return from rubber collapse or is it more likely the mc?

 

Maybe the drums are out of round or the rubber brake line could be failing, not allowing the fluid to flow back on release of the brakes...Mark

 

Several things happened on my truck which caused the same issue.

Brake cables were going bad and not releasing. This after replacing them just a year prior. Water got inside the sheath and expanded / rusted the cable.

The Pivot froze on the E-Brake lever inside drum. You'd use the brake, and the pivot wouldn't allow the cables to return, and release. After removing the pivot / bolt and E brake arm inside the drum, lubricating the crap out of it, it hasn't happened again.

 

I have also had wheel cylinders do that.check the easiest stuff first though.

 

After I get drums turned and new shoes(old ones are cracked from overheating) ill clean and grease pivots again and try to verify full travel and no dragging while on blocks and monitor drum temps. I hope its not internal because of the pia bleeding that would be required again😠

 

I have had flex brake lines go bad in less then a year. So that is a possibility.

Check your e-brake cables by hand for full, smooth travel when you have them discontected.

 

It is not all that uncommon, in some circles. In the old Porsche world it is highly recommended to replace the rubber ones with braided lines...Mark

 

Well...new shoes, drums turned, incorrect hardware assembly corrected (from po), and, most importantly, e-brake pivots completely disassembled and cleaned/antisiezed. Normal adjustment and 2 or 3 road tests seem to indicate no drag as the drums are cold. Nice not to have the squeal from the overheated shoes also. All other brake function normal at this point. We'll see how long it last. Not going to tear into anything extra at this point as a good working brake system = do not mess with it further! As always thanks for the insight.

D