92'1stGen

Alright so for the past few days I've been reading the sticky thread on adjusting the rear brakes, as well as what's said in the shop manual, since the truck's brakes haven't seemed like they're that effective these days. Pretty sure they haven't been properly adjusted in about 20k miles, so I'm thinking it's likely that's why, but anyway.

I jacked the rear up and initially spun both wheels to see what they felt like. I believe I've got a seeping rear axle seal on the left side as I can kind smell it, see it on the outside of the drum somewhat without taking the wheel off, and I've had issues with that seal in the last 20k miles anyway. I went ahead and tightened the star wheel adjuster up on the drivers side until I felt resistance. Problem is, I don't think I was getting full resistance because I would spin the wheel and it would catch in a certain spot, so you'd have to really give it some strength to get past that spot until you just couldn't get it past that spot at all, and that pretty much became my point of "resistance" in which I should stop turning the star wheel. I would assume that point of resistance was probably where the axle seal seepage may be going? If it's pertinent information, this was the first time I had moved the truck in about two weeks.

Anyway, I started backing the star wheel off in "2 teeth" increments on the left side, and seeing how much resistance I got in the wheel. The resistance in 75% of the wheel was reasonably lacking, but in the 25% where it would catch, it would get less and less as I backed it off a total of 10 teeth. I never really got rid of that resistance completely, but I got it to where it was pretty reasonable to turn the wheel past it. The right side was fine and I didn't have an issue with resistance at a certain point. In getting both sides adjusted the same I kind of just set the star wheels to a setting that made both wheels feel like they needed the same amount of force to turn.

I set the truck back down and went for a test drive. Going down the hill on the driveway I immediately noticed that it felt much more controlled, the brakes felt more effective, and I didn't need as much pedal travel to accomplish this. In the few neighborhood stop signs it stopped much better, and I couldn't feel or hear anything that sounded like the brakes were dragging or such. I drove into town, about a 5 mile drive. I thought I could a slight deep whine, but I wasn't totally sure if I was hearing things or if it was likely something in the front end because I been having an issue with death wobble lately, so it may be that. Based on the tach, I was still running at about the same rpm at certain speeds as I was before, 1400 rpm at 55 mph in o/d on flat ground. At every stop I made the brakes felt noticeably better and more effective. I stopped in town to get diesel, then went back home the same road. I thought I could still hear that slight wine, but I wasn't totally sure about it still.

Anyway when I got home I took a temperature reading of each drum, right up on the outside where the pad would meet it on the inside. This was about 3 -4 minutes after I got back. The left side read about 150F, and the right side about 125F. I'm not sure how hot a drum brake is supposed to run, of even if this matters at all, but the difference in temperature kind of puzzled me. Would it be because of the seepage from the axle seal? I then backed the star wheel off on the left side by 2 teeth, just to see how that would make the truck feel, and then I went for another drive. Just about a mile long round trip to the end of the neighborhood road and back. Coming back to the driveway there is about an 1/8 mile down hill slop that requires you to ride the brakes to stay slow, so it gives the brakes a fair workout. When I got back to the house the left side rear was about 143F and the right about 123F. It seem though that that adjustment lessened the effectiveness of the brakes so I tightend the left side star wheel back up by 2 teeth.

I know I'm going have to tear into both side of the rear axle once I get some money. The left side for the axle seal, and the right because I found that they're isn't even an adjustment lever in the drum, just a star wheel.

Anyway, sorry to bore you all with my babbling. I'm probably just paranoid since this is the first time I've adjusted the brakes and I don't want to screw anything up. Your opinions would be greatly appreciated.

ppiggppenn

It seems that what you've done is OK, and a slightly out-of-round drum is no big deal as long as you don't crank up the adjuster too tight. My drums (2WD mind) have a steel ring strategically placed to divert axle fluid so that a blown seal does not ruin the brakes. Never seen that before but it's saved me $$$ and grief. Are you sure it's axle fluid getting out and not brake fluid? Reason I ask is when you get into the brakes you'll need to replace the wheel cylinder(s) if it's brake fluid, otherwise it's the seal(s). Another thing that'll improve the job is to get the brake spring kit and lots of BrakeCleaner spray and rags. Also if you can get a few pix of the shoes and springs before you pull them apart. It gets confusing (at least for me) to have the book in one hand and a wrench in the other, but the camera can save you a mix-up

G1625S

You won't know for sure untill you pull the drum. As has been said, you're on the right track The temps you're reading are not that hot, so, untill you have the coin to dive into repairs, firm up the pedal feel and enjoy.

92'1stGen

I'm pretty sure it's axle fluid, but if it's any I don't think it's a lot. I've had issue with the side of the axle and the seal not "sealing". It just got a new seal within the last 20k miles and the seal that was taken out of it really wasn't working because I could smell axle fluid if I just walked past the truck. At the moment I have to stick my head pretty close up to the drum and even then it's a slight chore to smell it. But I can see it on the outside of the drum in between the inside of the wheel, unless that's left from before. Without looking at the axle, I believe I've got the "groove" from use and I either need to push the seal farther in the drum or speedy sleeve it. Only reason I suspected the axle seal seepage may be causing my specific resistance issue is because in another post where a user mentioned that his wheel would lock up randomly on gravel after the truck sat for a few days, (which mine seems to do every once in a while), Wanna mentioned that it was most likely a rear axle seal leaking.

I'll check it to see if it's brake fluid though, but the brakes have been kind of lacking for a while and I would expected I'd really have stopping issues by now if I was squirting brake fluid at every pump of the brake. I figure when I tear into the brakes that if I have to replace anything that I'll upgrade to the 3" shoes and 1-1/8" cylinders for better stopping power.

Thanks for the tips btw. I agree, a picture is worth a thousand words and is much better to work with than any shop manual illustration.



Cool. Thanks for making me feel better about it.

rebal

I have always installed new hardware in the rear on every brake job ,a little trick I learned along time ago from a old dodge guy was to bend the auto adjuster tab just a bit inward against the star wheel so the corner will bite in better on the star wheel , this has always worked for me and my brakes always stay in adjustment .
just a little FWIW. when your next brake job comes up my .02

Tacomaman87

the fluid will make it run hotter

BearKiller

Are you pumping the brakes and applying/releasing the park-brake a few times between adjustments ??

This pumping action sort of centers the shoes.

The shoes will not automatically stay centered and will give the tight-then-loose feeling when spinning them by hand.

Aggravating, I know, but I find it beneficial to pull the axles when adjusting rear brakes.

With the axle gone, the "resistance" is much better judged.


Like already suggested, ALWAYS buy a new spring/hardware kit whenever servicing drum-brakes.

Keep the old springs/hardware; you will need them late some Saturday night.


CLEAN OUT the axle vent and that seal leak will most likely dry up.


Take a three-corner file and SHARPEN/DEEPEN the star-wheel teeth.


Dis-assemble the star-wheel and wire-wheel brush the threads good and shiny.


Coat the star-wheel threads with anti-sieze.


Take the drums to a good shop that KNOWS trucks and have them turned true.


If you have the brakes apart, remove the park-brake cables, hang them straight up, and pump oil inside the cables until it freely drips out the other end.

92'1stGen

Yeah I was pumping the brakes several times for each wheel. Though I only got the loose then tight feel of the brakes on the left side and not the right, the right felt nice and spun easily. I'll have to try it with the axles pulled, I agree that that definitely would give a true measure of resistance. I know it varies from truck to truck and driver to driver, but how many miles should you go between rear brake adjustments?, or just go by feel? Thanks for all the info, that's a great help.

BearKiller

I let the effectiveness of my park-brakes tell me when the rears need adjusting.

My long driveway is a slight grade, #5 limestone.

I back to the top and let the truck roll of it's own accord, then apply the park-brake.

If both wheels smoothly lock and bring the truck to a stand-still, then all is fine.

I do this test in both directions.


Seeing as I am on crushed rock, it is easy to tell if one wheel is scooting and the truck still moving; that is an indication that an adjustment is due.


Adjusting is necessary about once a year.

92'1stGen

Ah ok, makes sense. Thanks. Now that you mention that though, before I adjusted the brakes I notice my parking brake was loosing it's holding power and I would have to put it almost to the floor to get it to hold. After doing the brakes it doesn't have to go down very far now to hold the truck.