Even with the cam and big IC, I still need more air so I'm replacing the HX35/Hybrid with an S300 62/65/14 as a secondary turbocharger (HT3B Primary).

- Has anyone been down that road and can offer some tips? Wastegate settings, etc?


- Has anyone any experience with some of the newer thermal ceramic coating on their hot-goods? With my initial install of the twins, I had all the hot-stuff externally coated with the JetHot Extreme Sterling that's good up to 1700*F. While I've not burned the product, it's been a miserable failure as far as surface rust is concerned. They've fixed it once under warranty. But it's just too much of a pain and expense only to last 3 ~ 6 months. Based on what I'm seeing elsewhere, I'll cut my losses by having that crap stripped off and recoated both inside and out with a better, more local (to me) competitors product.
These folks talk like they can fix me up (stripping and both internal/external coating) for half of what JetHot got from me ~ http://www.getcoated.com/thermal-coatings.html



If y'all haven't decided I'm a nut, this may seal the deal . . ..

As you may know, I run a full exhaust system including a huge/quiet muffler that dumps out behind the right/rear tire. Pretty-much stock in configuration, just big and high-flowing.
Racing at the drag-strip, I've always been concerned about the heavy smoke blasting the track officials with running in the left lane. Track-side enthusiasts get hammered with my running in the right lane. Running in the left lane also places a long cloud of smoke in front of my competitor should I be ahead. That's a safety issue. It's my understanding that the big diesel racing organizations have mandated stacks on the trucks with the 2010 season.

OK.

- I'm gonna Tee into my exhaust plumbing just before the muffler and have a 5" line come up through the bed floor, right against the passenger's side front wall of the bed. That pipe is gonna have a removable cap. As such, the exhaust system will function with full plumbing and the muffler for daily driving.

When at the track . . . .
- The removable cap is relocated to the standard exhaust outlet at the rear wheel thus plugging it.
- A temporary 5" stack is clamped onto the now open pipe in the bed of the truck.

No smoking out people plus the benefit of a fully open exhaust. Using Band-clamps set up with thumb-screws, the switch should take all of five minutes.


Thoughts?

 

Cutting a hole in the bed of that perfect truck....yeah, you're certifiable! Get ahold of ptoombs. He's got a 'Y' that connects his stacks and factory exhaust system. It's air actuated and slicker than snot.

 

There is such a thing as cable-operated exhaust "Y"s that divert the flow to whichever leg of the "Y" that the flapper is selected for.

 

If you dont want the hassle of an in bed stack, lots of guys use an elbow that slips onto their stock exit, and comes up just above the top of the bed; a quick bolt on stack that doesnt cut a hole in your bed.

 

As far as thermal coatings go maybe check out www.swaintech.com. I have heard good things about them.

 

i was gonna say y not mount a stack that attaches to the "stock" exhaust and mounts to the bed for stability... no holes either. rbrettctd beat me though

 

thye are best in my opinion as well ,everything i had done was top of the line

 

I agree on the slip on tip that fits on your stock tailpipe. I have seen a few vids of trucks pulling and drag racing with them. I like stacks but there is no way I would cut a hole in my 89's bed. My 93 is a fixer upper so thats why I cut that one. She ain't mint.

 

i agree with everyone if my bed was not rusted like it was i would have never cut a hole in it.

 

Go ahead and cut, those lame clamp on 90s to the tailpipe look nasty.

 

They do look nasty, but he is only after safety.

 

Thanks for the replies folks.

- I've seen the exhaust cutouts. The 4" manual versions are harder to come by. The motorized are neat but too expensive. I don't race on the street so no need for that.
Speaking of expensive, I've not wore the new off the big muffler. It was selected because it could keep the truck very quiet without presenting excessive restriction. Still though, the noise attenuation comes with a price, that being some restriction.
I had thought about a clamp-on turn-up, and while it satisfies the safety concern, it does nothing to help in a race setting (exhaust system performance wise).
As far as cutting the truck, historically, I shudder at the thought. But I can deal with a 5 ~ 6" hole in the bed. I just picked up a nice TIG welder for a killer deal and I can work sheet-metal, so I'm over it.


- I've read good things about the Swaintech stuff. But I also read good things about the JetHot. I even started a thread a while back asking for feedback https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...-t208952.html?

I think the biggest issue regarding getting feedback is lack of a lot of folks running such for cost. From what I'm seeing lately though, the price across the board has come down big-time.

I dunno.


- I'm looking forward to the better secondary turbo. While it's not a huge step-up with a 62mm compressor compared to the HX35/Hybrid it's replacing, the hot side is a big improvement and should offer a lot less restriction. I'm led to believe I'll actually see a couple of pounds less boost while still increasing airflow quantity when said and done.

We'll see.

Thanks folks.

 

Are you running an external gate or just the internal one on the hx35? If you are using the internal gates, the s300 has a much better gate setup. What are your drive pressure and boost pressures for the turbos? Curious as I am planning to run a hybrid over a bht3b twins setup. But if you are running out of air at your current power level, I may just build my setup around my s300 instead. You are doing all the test and tune work for me. Hopefully I can do this project soon......