As some of you may have read in latter a post my trans is going out and I plan to get it rebult next week while I put in my seats and rebuild the front end. I am going to take it out and a local shop is going to rebuild it but I have never pulled a trans out of a non-commercial truck before. So this leads me to my question, can I simply unbolt the trans from the bell housing and just pull it out or will the shift forks, bearing, floor boards, and or clutch get in the way of it getting out or back in. Would you all do it this way or would you pull the bell housing, clutch, and trans together.

Paws

 

When i had to pull my Getrag for a rebuild i just took the shifter off but i couldn't get the lower part out so i had to cut into the sheet metal to get it out. And i just unbolted it from the bellhouseing like your asking about.

However with my transjack that i have i had to jack the truck WAY up to get it out but it finally did come out ;D

GL with your Getrag.

 

You will need to pull the shifter out from up on top to remove the trans. If I remember correct there is a snap ring on the top and once you have that off the shifter and fork should come out fairly easily. Other than that, its just the regular removal. Good luck!
Brian

 

Dont forget to remove your slave cylinder. Held on by 2 bolts on the side of the tranny. This makes pulling it out alot easier as there is not tension on the throwout bearing.

 

Thanks for the info I'll start taking it out on friday. What kind of oils do you all run in your transmissions? I'm thinking about going with amsoil but what weight should I go with?

Paws

 

After you remove the slave cyclinder you need to make sure you prevent it from extending out. I always use tie wraps to hold the push rod back so it stays in place. Also if you are going to be working in the cab while the slave cyclinder is loose put a block under the clutch pedal so you wont be able to apply pressure to the master cyclinder. Expensive repair if you blow it apart.

 

Remove the shift boot and you will see 2 bolts holding the top end of the shift lever to a short bottom piece. Remove the top - then remove a smaller boot that covers the short lever where it mounts to the tower. Next you will have to take out the snap ring and loosen (sp) the two centering screws on either side of the tower. Once they are out hit the side of the tower with a rubber or nylon malet - the "guts" will pop out. You will need a fairly good tranny jack and a bottle jack. With a block of wood between the oil pan and the bottle jack - this will support the back of the engine while the tranny is out. Place your tyranny jack under the tranny. Unhook and remove the driveline. Next remove the cross member supporting the rear of the tranny and your getting close.Disconnect the speedo wire from the sender and the back up switch on the top of the tranny. Tie wrap the slave cylinder in place. Remove the 4 bolts 3/4" (I think) from the tranny. You will have to lower the rear of the tranny and the rear of the engine but the tranny will come out without any cutting of the floor board.

When you get the tranny out take a close look at the end of the input shaft - I am willing to bet you will need (should) to replace the pilot bushing/bearing - Dodge used both. You will have to pull the bell housing and clutch to replace the bushing. If the clutch looks good you can probably reuse it, if not I would suggest a Con-O from South Bend Clutch. That flywheel is one heavy sucker 50 lbs or so. I have re-used the flywheel to crank bolts - torque is 110 ftlbs. If you need to replace the clutch the flywheel needs a special resurfacing procedure.

Sorry if this is long winded or if I covered too much. Good luck

Bob

 

I was told buy the guy who is rebuilding my trans to leave the slave cylinder on. He said this will keep the throwout bearing in place while the trans is out. Is this correct? I was told a new clutch was put in when the transfer case was rebuilt, about 40k ago do you think I need to replace the pilot bearing/bushing scince this is std item when a clutch job is done? Thanks for the details Bob, I was thinking about that tower assm. today that helped.

Paws

 

Replacing the pilot bushing/bearing is your call. I would mic. the input shaft if it looks good. If you decide to replace the pilot bushing you will have to remove the slave cylinder as it mounts to the bell housing and it's easier to remove/install the bushing with the clutch off. With only 40,000 on the clutch I would probably leave the bushing in provided that the input shaft checks out OK. The last one I did - the input shaft - looked like a 19th century piano leg. You're close enough to me that I could help - if I wasn't working this weekend. Good Luck.

Bob

 

Thanks Bob, I got the trans out today and the input shaft looks good but the pilot bushing looks like its cracked. Although it may be a two piece bushing, I hope. I'll get my dad to look at it on wed. to see what he thinks about it.

Paws

 

I have yet to see a 2 piece pilot bushing so it is probably cracked. I am off on Mon. if that would be of any help and would be happy to take a run up there and look at it - just let me know.

Bob

 

for the cost of them, just as cheap insurance so I didn't have to take it apart again,if I was you I'd replace both the pilot bushing and the throwout bearing. To many times I've seen or heard where someone didn't because they thought they either loked good or were new enough and then had to later go back and replace them. your call though