It has been a while since i've had one apart, and I i've only had one apart. But yeah there is a way to get the input shaft 180deg out from the rotor, and I remember there being a dot. So if you have the dot lined up with the keyway on the input shaft, then you should be good to go!

 

A few things that have gone wrong with pump reseals that I know of:

1) Manual shut off lever not indexed correctly, so always shutting off fuel.

2) "button" between cam plate and piston falling out into the bottom of the pump, so piston does not travel far enough.

3) loose plug over plunger (with big three sided head)-- o-ring seals so no external leak, but fuel just leaks back from the plunger internally.

4) pump 180 out of time -- cross drive indexed improperly (you already know about this one).


As was said before, if you put the key back into the drive gear, and line up your timing marks the way they were before you started, you will have the same timing that you started with -- unless you moved the drive gear relative to the cam gear, which isn't a casual thing.

 

1) I kept the indexing the same for this. I do think the one leak after resealing the pump the first time was from here, so it is apart again. I'll be double checking how is it indexed and making sure it isn't causing this problem.

2) That button is good to go. I made sure to keep an eye on it and make sure it went under the piston.

3) Big nut under the one that you can take out and check pump timing. Didn't touch it so I wouldn't think that'd be a problem. The IP was working fine before I pulled it other than leaking badly.

4) Got that covered as you said. Thanks!

 

One more thought -- I have never seen this be a problem, but pull the pressure relief valve assembly (bolt like object in front of the throttle shaft with 2-sided head that goes through the banjo in the KSB line) out again and make sure that the o-rings on it are good. If that isn't sealed properly, fuel can leak back into the supply side of the vane pump and bring the case pressure down to supply pressure. Jim Lane did a good write up of fixing this problem when the original o-ring failed on his truck.

 

Ok sounds good. I put the pump back together, am currently bleeding the lines. Everything seems to be good again, fuel at the injectors, made sure to prime the system with the lift pump lever. No leaks at the pump so that makes me happy .

I'll pull that line and see if that's the problem. I have two reseal kits so I should have some spares if I screwed any of them up!

Thanks for the help and advice guys, I really appreciate it.

also, I checked the index on the shutoff lever and am researching it right now. It's kind of hard to push back, should it be hard? I indexed it the same way as when I took it off. That foot should go in front (toward the timing cover in relation to the pump) of the other levers inside the pump that the governor runs against, correct?

 

one of the o-rings was torn just a little bit and the top one looked to be too big and was compressed some. Replaced both of them with the correct sized ones. Still no start, no smoke.

When I bleed the injectors there isn't a whole lot of fuel coming out, a small enough amount that I feel like it isn't getting enough fuel? The woodruff key is in there and fine.

 

Yes, it ought to be making a big mess when you bleed it. The shutoff lever is spring loaded so there ought to be some resistance but it should no be binding.

 

earlier when I was bleeding a good bit actually did come out. Now there isn't as much when bleeding. I'm going to keep bleeding it and see if I can recruit a buddy to turn it over. Gotta run to the parts store to get some starting fluid and go from there.

And the shutoff lever is really hard to push back. Much harder than before I took the pump apart. When the top of the pump was off I tested different indexes of the lever just to make sure that it was going in correctly. The original index leaves a tiny bit of play between the shutoff lever arm inside the pump and the lever/levers that the governor rides/pushes on. If I changed the way it was indexed it would hit the levers inside the pump when putting the top of the pump back on.

Do I need to pull the top hat again?

 

Yep, pull the top off again. Look close to see if you got the throttle levers sliding ball properly inserted into the control collar that slides on plunger. It's been awhile since I've been inside a VE book or inside one so my terminology might be off a little. But I once had the same issue when rebuilding a pump. Got it all back together and the shutdown lever was very hard to push back. Almost stuck in place. It's all in the balancing act of reinstalling the high pressure head with springs, plunger and collar. Then trying to get the ball of the throttle levers properly in the control collar.

 

the control collar is known as the metering sleeve which covers a relief or spill port on the plunger. these two pics will show you just where you look

 

that's gotta be it. I'll tear into tomorrow. Thanks so much guys!

 

IT RUNS IT RUNS IT RUNS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

so happy right now guys. Thanks for all of the help.

just 3 times pulling the pump to finally reseal it and get it going correctly haha.

pulled it in like 45 minutes or so this time. the ball on the lever wasn't in the control collar. got it back together, really good spray at the injectors bleeding them. closed them off and it immediately fired up, throttle index was a little off. fixed that and it runs great, no leaks. Guess I should have paid better attention when tearing it down. Hope this will help others that have trouble after resealing their pumps, or hopefully prevent them from doing what I did!

I couldn't have done it without everyone's advice, so again, thank you so much for guiding and helping me through this whole process.

Now if I could just get the bodywork and paint done I'll be good to go.....for a little bit. then a bigger compressor, then an intercooler...then,then,then. right? haha.

 

I'm good. Glad you got it going.

 

Glad its going. Its threads like this that make me the " 366 spring chicken "

 

you don't need to rebuild your pump to install a 366 spring richie