pulled Injection Pump to reseal, now no start
 

So I pulled the injection put to put new o-rings/seals in it since it was leaking pretty bady. Pulled injectors to get them pop tested/new copper washers because a few were seeping/bubbling.

I didn't put the engine at TDC and didn't lock the pump. I figured as long as I didn't touch/rotate anything it would be ok? Was I completely wrong assuming that?

I used the threads in the sticky to take apart the pump (thanks to the members that have those threads up btw!) I did bump the timing 1/8" when I reinstalled the pump. Also added a DennyT stageII pin. I had a problem before when I popped the tophat off where the fuel screw wasn't turned in enough to even start the truck. I have it in far enough this time so I don't think it's that.

I am getting fuel to the injectors, lift pump does prime the filter and if I bleed at the bleed port it lets out a lot of fuel. I have power to my FSS, I don't think the timing gear moved at all, I just took the pump out and didn't touch it until re-installation of the pump.

It cranks and cranks and cranks. Brand new battery. I've read Crossy's son's thread and most of the threads I can find on this. Do you think I'm out of time? How can I check this, if I need to pull the cover I can, don't really want to [dummy] but I can! haha.

I saw some people saying to take the front cover off and check timing marks relative to the pump timing gear and cam gear after setting the motor at TDC? Does anyone have any diagrams/pictures/illustrations for this?

I've tried to tell everything that is going on, but I'm sure you all have questions which I will try to answer asap! I'd like to get my truck running again soon.

Thanks guys, hopefully others that have problems will get some good answers/recommendations from this thread like I have from everyone else's.

Are you sure that when you installed the pump, that the keyway didn't fall out or get jammed? It is very easy to mess up the key, and then it'll be way out of time, probably the pump won't even turn.

the recommendation is to put the engine at TDC, engage the timing pin below the pump to be sure you're on TDC of the compression stroke, lock the pump, then remove. i understand you're thinking in that if nothing turns, you should be fine. however, i wouldn't trust that things wouldn't move. it's more than likely out of time since everything else seems to be right.

I doubt that not locking the pump is your issue. I had a pump key shear off due to water in fuel. I got a used pump and just rotated it to the same spot and put it on the gear. If the gear didn't jump teeth, then just lining up your keyway on the pump shaft to the gear should be fine. The pump turns 1/2 the engine speed, so there is no worry of getting it 180* out of time like a pump that turns the SAME speed as the crank.

Are you getting fuel from ALL of your injectors? When mine sheared the key, it would pump fuel out of #1 and #6 (your injectors may vary).

Like someone said, you MAY have mashed the key. Notice the keyway on the shaft is semiround as is the bottom of the woodruff key? It will rock in there VERY easily if you are JUST slightly off when putting it in. I had to do it 2 or 3 times untill I was satisfied. Wish I put threadlock in the keyway and let it dry, but hind sight is 20/20.

Let us know if you are getting fuel out of ALL the injectors when the lines are cracked.

Let us know if you're getting spark too, that might help!!........................ (just kidding!)

Dumb question but you didn't mention bleeding the injection lines. Have you?

I did bleed the injector lines and had fuel at each cylinder.
I'll pull the oil fill tube and check to make sure the key is in there on thursday (first day off work this week) and see if it's there. If it isn't I know what I need to do next I guess haha.

Throttle shaft index.

I saw that posted in crossy's son's thread. I marked the previous position and installed it the same way that it was taken off. I also tried starting it with different pedal positions.

Does it bark at all and are you getting any smoke?

no bark and i don't think i'm getting any smoke. at least my garage hasn't filled up with it yet lol. Gonna check the key tomorrow morning. If it has fallen will it be in the oil pan or the bottom of the timing cover?

Just checked the woodruff key, it's in place and good. Gonna pull the cover and verify that the timing marks are all lined up and not off a tooth.

pictures because they're always super helpful for me when I'm looking at threads. As far as I've found the timing mark should line up with the E on the 6bt motors, correct me if I'm wrong. and the crank marks should have the one 0 between the other two 0's

woodruff key:
Attachment 70241

Attachment 70242

pump timing gear:
Attachment 70243

Attachment 70244

crankshaft timing gear:
Attachment 70245

Attachment 70246

Guess it's something I did in the pump? I've read that it could be timed 180 degrees off? I don't think I did that but is the only way to tell by taking the pump back apart? I would assume so?

The only things that I changed when I pulled the pump were putting in a dennyT pin and bumped the timing 1/8" by turning the pump relative to stock timing marks.

Just pulled the shutdown solenoid to make sure that wasn't the cause of the problem (plunger chewed up or something). Tested it and it works fine, so that can't be the cause of it.

Question: When bleeding the injection lines should the fuel spray out forcefully at the injectors? Mine wasn't really spraying at all, just running out. There was fuel, just not a ton of it.

when bleeding, i tighten the fittings with my fingers until they stop, then start the truck and let them spray for about 5-10 seconds to ensure that all the air is out. then i shut it off, tighten all the fittings, fire it again and it runs on all 6 with no miss. all your timing marks are right where they should be.

yes they should spray pretty good and get everything nice a full of diesel.

what exactly did you take apart when you re sealed the pump?

so I saw where some guys said their pump's had been 180 degrees off. Talking with my local diesel shop the tech said he doesn't lock ve's in, just reseals them and puts them back in the truck wherever the key was. I figured there's no harm in turning the pump a full rotation, so that if it was 180 out, it would be correct.

Did that, still not running, no smoke, and still have fuel at the injectors. Looks like I'll be pulling the pump to get the shop to check it out. Any ideas guys?

If I did mess something up in the pump where do you think I went wrong?

I used this thread as a reference when I took the pump apart:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/....html?t=200901

I had pretty much everything out of it to install the front seal. I put the shaft that goes into the timing gear right back in the same way, the rollers and cam plate in the same direction (it's all keyed so even though I installed it the same way I didn't think it could get set up incorrectly anyway. wrong assumption?)
then the plungers/springs/piston that go into the rotor head