pulled Injection Pump to reseal, now no start
01-28-2010, 09:12 PM
#31
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I had backed the idle screw out to get to one of the top hat hex bolts. I figured I would adjust the idle once I got the truck running. hahahahahaha. haven't adjusted it yet. Should I tighten it up and try starting it again?
video of the governor spring in action:
http://s118.photobucket.com/albums/o...t=MVI_1887.flv
if it asks for a password it's : ww
video of the governor spring in action:
http://s118.photobucket.com/albums/o...t=MVI_1887.flv
if it asks for a password it's : ww
01-28-2010, 10:14 PM
#32
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I have tried ether. I'll pull the intake tube and disconnect the grid heather and use ether tomorrow or saturday and report back. adjusting the idle screw also.
thanks for all of the help so far!
thanks for all of the help so far!
01-28-2010, 10:51 PM
#33
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that throttle lever has 4 less hash marks than mine or any other's i've seen...
may wanna try re-indexing it? maybe not enough tension on the governor spring for it to even idle.
may wanna try re-indexing it? maybe not enough tension on the governor spring for it to even idle.
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picklesweet (12-13-2023)
01-29-2010, 07:51 AM
#35
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One more time... the injection pump is the distributor for our motors. The shaft spins, and shoots high pressure fuel at the right time, to the right injectors as it goes round and round. The shaft that is keyed on the pump , and the is a cam that gets tight in the pump as it is about to deliver the fuel to the next injector. WHen you pulled the pump, the key was more than likely in its travel from one firing cycle to the next, and without locking the pump lock, your pump just returned off that cam point inside the pump, to the slack area between the cams, and is at rest there. You need to re-set the truck to TDC, and spin the pump shaft by hand, and get some pre load on that #1 firing point on the pump. Im sorry, but you need to take the pump out, and set it up right. Not that hard, or will it take that long.
01-29-2010, 09:54 AM
#36
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OK since you had everything apart you can put the rotor 180 deg apart from the input shaft. There is a dot that you have to line up with the key on the shaft. I'll bet that is what you did.
01-29-2010, 05:47 PM
#37
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You won't be the first person to do it.
01-29-2010, 11:00 PM
#38
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listen to this guy. thats what i did. forget about everyone telling you to lock the pump and set tdc. it does not matter. i put my pump on three times before i got everything right. first to reseal. then 180 out. then a torn o ring that i did not even have to pull the pump for. if the gear is lined up and the key is in the shaft and you bled the lines it will start right up. turn the ignition key on and crack the lines and then prime. fuel will run out at the injectors. as for throttle shaft index just put it on and hold it open a little bit. if it does not idle at close to the same screw setting then change it. none of this is as complicated as some people make it out to be.
01-30-2010, 05:53 AM
#39
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that seems about right.I find its easier to remove the spring on the lever(once you turn up the screw) and use a dedicated return spring on the timing cover.It makes it way easier to preload the gov spring.
02-04-2010, 08:07 PM
#40
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ok guys, sorry for no updates. It snowed so I went out and played in the jeep and sledded instead of working on the dodge haha.
That looks like more fun right? lol. I'm going to pull the pump off tomorrow and go back through it. Should be a good time
hahahaha
That looks like more fun right? lol. I'm going to pull the pump off tomorrow and go back through it. Should be a good time
hahahaha
02-06-2010, 02:05 PM
#41
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ok I have my pump off and apart now.
When you say rotor do you mean the cam plate? If so it the dot/keyway that lines up with the plunger (goes into the head with the springs on it) was lined up with the slot for the woodruff key. Is this what you were talking about?
When you say rotor do you mean the cam plate? If so it the dot/keyway that lines up with the plunger (goes into the head with the springs on it) was lined up with the slot for the woodruff key. Is this what you were talking about?
.
02-07-2010, 11:40 PM
#44
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I would double check and make sure that you have plenty of pressure from you lift pump by cracking the 10mm bolt that is screwed into the 17mm banjo line bolt that is screwed into the head for the fuel filter feed and either hand priming the pump to make sure you have pressure or cranking it over, then check to make sure you have plenty of pressure at the injection pump feed line. it also takes a little bit of time to get fuel up to the injectors after re-sealing a pump, cause everything has to fill up again, including the filter if you changed it at the same time.
Good luck
Jesse
Good luck
Jesse
02-07-2010, 11:47 PM
#45
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oh yeah and I would double check your fuel shut off solenoid to by pulling out the spring and plunger and just running the shell to make sure it is causing a problem with a bad connection or something