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pulled Injection Pump to reseal, now no start

Old Jan 28, 2010 | 02:46 PM
  #16  
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I just pulled my pump yesterday to install an a advance spacer behind the ksb & also retorqued the head to 125# & adjusted the valves & it took a long time to bleed the system I had fuel at all injectors but also a lot of air it finally started but was only running on 4 cylinders I think the problem i had was i did not bleed inlet line I started right at the injectors I did lock the pump but i have pulled them without locking Make sure you are getting good spray when you bleed the injectors
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Old Jan 28, 2010 | 03:58 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by sshort
I just pulled my pump yesterday to install an a advance spacer behind the ksb & also retorqued the head to 125# & adjusted the valves & it took a long time to bleed the system I had fuel at all injectors but also a lot of air it finally started but was only running on 4 cylinders I think the problem i had was i did not bleed inlet line I started right at the injectors I did lock the pump but i have pulled them without locking Make sure you are getting good spray when you bleed the injectors
the inlet line meaning the line from the lift pump to the fuel filter/heater?
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Old Jan 28, 2010 | 04:23 PM
  #18  
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Yes start from there & see if that makes a difference

Last edited by sshort; Jan 28, 2010 at 04:28 PM. Reason: adding more
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Old Jan 28, 2010 | 04:58 PM
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did the shop even calibrate it so that it was firing on #1? it doesn't seem like good practice to not lock a pump after it's been benched and calibrated. that's the whole reason for that locking screw is so that it can't turn. it may be that the firing order is off enough. you'll still get fuel at the injectors and plenty of it once the air is bled, but if the timing is off, it's injecting during the wrong stroke.
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Old Jan 28, 2010 | 05:04 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by jimbo486
did the shop even calibrate it so that it was firing on #1? it doesn't seem like good practice to not lock a pump after it's been benched and calibrated. that's the whole reason for that locking screw is so that it can't turn. it may be that the firing order is off enough. you'll still get fuel at the injectors and plenty of it once the air is bled, but if the timing is off, it's injecting during the wrong stroke.
If it is the same pump that came off the truck there is no need to lock to #1. It can only go in 1 way. The pump turns 1 revolution per 2 crank turns. As long as he gets the keyway in and the timing gear has not jumped it should be in time.
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Old Jan 28, 2010 | 05:10 PM
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whats wrong is that you diddnt lock the pump... the keyed shaft of the pump needs to be "pre-loaded" a bit, just after the #1 hash mark on the pump housing. Line up the key in shaft with the mark on the pump. NOW, take a 10mm (if i remember right) and get ready to set the color lock of the pump. First, you will need to turn the pump shaft a little, to just before it wanting to fall to the next spot in the pump. The shaft kinda "clicks" along in the 6 spots it has in one revolution. SO, get the key lined up with the mark on the pump housing. Turn the keyed shaft a little more, to set some preload. Tighten the set screw. Now, set the motor to TDC, compression stroke, (overhead valves closed on #1 cyl) and install the pump. The key will be around 4:30 or 5 as the clock hand goes, looking into the hole that the pump goes into. I fought this the same as you, with no results. Do this, and it will start. I just dont know how to check the timing, for sure, to see where it is. Let us know. Jeff
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Old Jan 28, 2010 | 05:32 PM
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Just went to bleed the line from the lift pump up to the filter. I pumped the lift pump until it wouldn't pump anymore and the lever basically felt like it was bottoming out. (correct way to do it, correct?)

Before I would just crank the motor over and I could re-prime the system, you should be able to do it like that right? Wellllll.......the lift pump felt just like it did right after I primed the system the first time. Right at the bottom of the stroke.

Did my lift pump die folks?
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Old Jan 28, 2010 | 05:51 PM
  #23  
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No, the lift pump eccentric is all the way up. Roll the motor over a turn and the lever will work.

Before you tear the thing all the way apart, make sure it's not something simple like throttle indexing or the fuel screw not in far enough. Also while you have the throttle lever off, turn the throttle shaft to be sure the governor spring hasn't come unhooked.
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Old Jan 28, 2010 | 05:59 PM
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I did turn the motor over, the lift pump acted like it did before I turned the motor over. I feel no pressure until I get to the bottom of the stroke of the lift pump lever.

I checked the throttle index and it's set on the second line just like jim lane's was in his thread; and the fuel screw is pretty far in, all the way to where the remains of the stock collar are.
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Old Jan 28, 2010 | 06:03 PM
  #25  
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Just for giggles, go one spline tighter on the throttle index and see if that gets you anywhere.
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Old Jan 28, 2010 | 06:12 PM
  #26  
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well, my throttle index was set at the first mark but after looking at jim lane's thread I moved it to the second mark, so that's where it is currently, and still no start, no smoke.
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Old Jan 28, 2010 | 07:29 PM
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how about some pictures of your indexing, fuel screw and anything else you might have available? we may be able to notice something out of the ordinary.
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Old Jan 28, 2010 | 08:39 PM
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throttle index:

Name:  IMG_1886.jpg
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Size:  90.1 KB

fuel screw:

Name:  IMG_1885.jpg
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Old Jan 28, 2010 | 08:54 PM
  #29  
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Throttle lever looks to be slack - not touching idle screw.
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Old Jan 28, 2010 | 09:00 PM
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I had backed the idle screw out to get to one of the top hat hex bolts. I figured I would adjust the idle once I got the truck running. hahahahahaha. haven't adjusted it yet. Should I tighten it up and try starting it again?

video of the governor spring in action:
http://s118.photobucket.com/albums/o...t=MVI_1887.flv

if it asks for a password it's : ww
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