pulled Injection Pump to reseal, now no start
I just pulled my pump yesterday to install an a advance spacer behind the ksb & also retorqued the head to 125# & adjusted the valves & it took a long time to bleed the system I had fuel at all injectors but also a lot of air it finally started but was only running on 4 cylinders I think the problem i had was i did not bleed inlet line I started right at the injectors I did lock the pump but i have pulled them without locking Make sure you are getting good spray when you bleed the injectors
I just pulled my pump yesterday to install an a advance spacer behind the ksb & also retorqued the head to 125# & adjusted the valves & it took a long time to bleed the system I had fuel at all injectors but also a lot of air it finally started but was only running on 4 cylinders I think the problem i had was i did not bleed inlet line I started right at the injectors I did lock the pump but i have pulled them without locking Make sure you are getting good spray when you bleed the injectors
did the shop even calibrate it so that it was firing on #1? it doesn't seem like good practice to not lock a pump after it's been benched and calibrated. that's the whole reason for that locking screw is so that it can't turn. it may be that the firing order is off enough. you'll still get fuel at the injectors and plenty of it once the air is bled, but if the timing is off, it's injecting during the wrong stroke.
did the shop even calibrate it so that it was firing on #1? it doesn't seem like good practice to not lock a pump after it's been benched and calibrated. that's the whole reason for that locking screw is so that it can't turn. it may be that the firing order is off enough. you'll still get fuel at the injectors and plenty of it once the air is bled, but if the timing is off, it's injecting during the wrong stroke.
whats wrong is that you diddnt lock the pump... the keyed shaft of the pump needs to be "pre-loaded" a bit, just after the #1 hash mark on the pump housing. Line up the key in shaft with the mark on the pump. NOW, take a 10mm (if i remember right) and get ready to set the color lock of the pump. First, you will need to turn the pump shaft a little, to just before it wanting to fall to the next spot in the pump. The shaft kinda "clicks" along in the 6 spots it has in one revolution. SO, get the key lined up with the mark on the pump housing. Turn the keyed shaft a little more, to set some preload. Tighten the set screw. Now, set the motor to TDC, compression stroke, (overhead valves closed on #1 cyl) and install the pump. The key will be around 4:30 or 5 as the clock hand goes, looking into the hole that the pump goes into. I fought this the same as you, with no results. Do this, and it will start. I just dont know how to check the timing, for sure, to see where it is. Let us know. Jeff
Just went to bleed the line from the lift pump up to the filter. I pumped the lift pump until it wouldn't pump anymore and the lever basically felt like it was bottoming out. (correct way to do it, correct?)
Before I would just crank the motor over and I could re-prime the system, you should be able to do it like that right? Wellllll.......the lift pump felt just like it did right after I primed the system the first time. Right at the bottom of the stroke.
Did my lift pump die folks?
Before I would just crank the motor over and I could re-prime the system, you should be able to do it like that right? Wellllll.......the lift pump felt just like it did right after I primed the system the first time. Right at the bottom of the stroke.
Did my lift pump die folks?
No, the lift pump eccentric is all the way up. Roll the motor over a turn and the lever will work.
Before you tear the thing all the way apart, make sure it's not something simple like throttle indexing or the fuel screw not in far enough. Also while you have the throttle lever off, turn the throttle shaft to be sure the governor spring hasn't come unhooked.
Before you tear the thing all the way apart, make sure it's not something simple like throttle indexing or the fuel screw not in far enough. Also while you have the throttle lever off, turn the throttle shaft to be sure the governor spring hasn't come unhooked.
I did turn the motor over, the lift pump acted like it did before I turned the motor over. I feel no pressure until I get to the bottom of the stroke of the lift pump lever.
I checked the throttle index and it's set on the second line just like jim lane's was in his thread; and the fuel screw is pretty far in, all the way to where the remains of the stock collar are.
I checked the throttle index and it's set on the second line just like jim lane's was in his thread; and the fuel screw is pretty far in, all the way to where the remains of the stock collar are.
well, my throttle index was set at the first mark but after looking at jim lane's thread I moved it to the second mark, so that's where it is currently, and still no start, no smoke.
I had backed the idle screw out to get to one of the top hat hex bolts. I figured I would adjust the idle once I got the truck running. hahahahahaha. haven't adjusted it yet. Should I tighten it up and try starting it again?
video of the governor spring in action:
http://s118.photobucket.com/albums/o...t=MVI_1887.flv
if it asks for a password it's : ww
video of the governor spring in action:
http://s118.photobucket.com/albums/o...t=MVI_1887.flv
if it asks for a password it's : ww





