Power windows & blower motor not working
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Power windows & blower motor not working
Hey all,
I just picked up a '92 D350 & have been fixing it up. Whoever had it before me hacked a lot of the wiring under the hood near the d.s. inner fender, starter, & in the fuse block.
I fixed the starter wiring & most if not all of the inner fender stuff.
Since the fuse block had quite a few splices & the dash was broken in several places, I decided to change the under-dash wiring & the dash itself.
With everything almost back in place my power windows & blower motor still do not work. I know the windows & blower motor DO work & fuses are good.
The previous owner ran a wire to the fuel heater relays(? I think) on the inner fender for the blower motor/ windows - bypassing the black wire w/pink tracer.
I know this isn't "correct" but will work (it is fused too).
I've tried another ignition switch, same problem.
The only other thing(s) I can think of checking are the fusible links on the inner fender unless I'm missing something?
I could just run a new wire & fuse it kind of like it is now, but would rather not if I don't have to...
I just picked up a '92 D350 & have been fixing it up. Whoever had it before me hacked a lot of the wiring under the hood near the d.s. inner fender, starter, & in the fuse block.
I fixed the starter wiring & most if not all of the inner fender stuff.
Since the fuse block had quite a few splices & the dash was broken in several places, I decided to change the under-dash wiring & the dash itself.
With everything almost back in place my power windows & blower motor still do not work. I know the windows & blower motor DO work & fuses are good.
The previous owner ran a wire to the fuel heater relays(? I think) on the inner fender for the blower motor/ windows - bypassing the black wire w/pink tracer.
I know this isn't "correct" but will work (it is fused too).
I've tried another ignition switch, same problem.
The only other thing(s) I can think of checking are the fusible links on the inner fender unless I'm missing something?
I could just run a new wire & fuse it kind of like it is now, but would rather not if I don't have to...
#2
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The blower motor and windows share the same fusible link. Near the drivers hood hinge
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Thanks - got that working, but now, almost nothing else does.
I got rid of my "Y" connector & most of my fusible links & replaced them with normal ATC fuses.
I don't know if I'm just too tired & over-looking something or what but here's what works:
Hazards, Heat/AC, power windows, power mirrors, dome light, cargo light. (I think that's it)
What doesn't work:
Headlights, running lights, turn signals, brake lights, radio, wipers. The truck is just dead.
I did have some things just temporarily wired directly to the battery but I can't even get it to turn over. & all the things that don't work, worked before.
I've check all my in-line fuses, all the fuses in the fuse block & everything's good. Battery is good.
I got rid of my "Y" connector & most of my fusible links & replaced them with normal ATC fuses.
I don't know if I'm just too tired & over-looking something or what but here's what works:
Hazards, Heat/AC, power windows, power mirrors, dome light, cargo light. (I think that's it)
What doesn't work:
Headlights, running lights, turn signals, brake lights, radio, wipers. The truck is just dead.
I did have some things just temporarily wired directly to the battery but I can't even get it to turn over. & all the things that don't work, worked before.
I've check all my in-line fuses, all the fuses in the fuse block & everything's good. Battery is good.
#4
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Check all the fuses under your dash and all the relays on the drivers side fender
#5
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Thanks - got that working, but now, almost nothing else does.
I got rid of my "Y" connector & most of my fusible links & replaced them with normal ATC fuses.
I don't know if I'm just too tired & over-looking something or what but here's what works:
Hazards, Heat/AC, power windows, power mirrors, dome light, cargo light. (I think that's it)
What doesn't work:
Headlights, running lights, turn signals, brake lights, radio, wipers. The truck is just dead.
I did have some things just temporarily wired directly to the battery but I can't even get it to turn over. & all the things that don't work, worked before.
I've check all my in-line fuses, all the fuses in the fuse block & everything's good. Battery is good.
I got rid of my "Y" connector & most of my fusible links & replaced them with normal ATC fuses.
I don't know if I'm just too tired & over-looking something or what but here's what works:
Hazards, Heat/AC, power windows, power mirrors, dome light, cargo light. (I think that's it)
What doesn't work:
Headlights, running lights, turn signals, brake lights, radio, wipers. The truck is just dead.
I did have some things just temporarily wired directly to the battery but I can't even get it to turn over. & all the things that don't work, worked before.
I've check all my in-line fuses, all the fuses in the fuse block & everything's good. Battery is good.
If you walk up to a running machine, do something, and it now does not run...........It's what you did.
Not being a smart alec, just stating a fact.
Is the hot common to the fuse block replacing the links secure?
Also crossed my mind. Most of the fusible links would require a maxi-fuse for replacement.
#6
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That's the thing that bothers me the most - it is what I did. That & I deal with wiring almost every day & this of all things has me stumped.
But, they have 40 amps running through 20 gauge wire, & 60 amps running through 16 gauge?
Just seems like way too small of wire to be using?
I'll have to do some more checking on this thing later...if I get motivated enough to feel like even looking at it today.
But, they have 40 amps running through 20 gauge wire, & 60 amps running through 16 gauge?
Just seems like way too small of wire to be using?
I'll have to do some more checking on this thing later...if I get motivated enough to feel like even looking at it today.
#7
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That's the thing that bothers me the most - it is what I did. That & I deal with wiring almost every day & this of all things has me stumped.
But, they have 40 amps running through 20 gauge wire, & 60 amps running through 16 gauge?
Just seems like way too small of wire to be using?
I'll have to do some more checking on this thing later...if I get motivated enough to feel like even looking at it today.
But, they have 40 amps running through 20 gauge wire, & 60 amps running through 16 gauge?
Just seems like way too small of wire to be using?
I'll have to do some more checking on this thing later...if I get motivated enough to feel like even looking at it today.
There are some silly setups in this beast, though. The parking and clearance lamp circuit with 30 or so filaments and a trailer lead wired in 18g for instance.
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#8
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Well, I gave up on my ATC type fuse change-over. I went to the junkyard & cut out what I needed from a '91 gasser. I changed it all back to "factory".
Everything works now; it fired right up (the engine...lol) all the lights work, windows, radio, etc.
Oh well, won't be my first failed project & won't be my last.
Thanks for the help; I appreciate it.
Everything works now; it fired right up (the engine...lol) all the lights work, windows, radio, etc.
Oh well, won't be my first failed project & won't be my last.
Thanks for the help; I appreciate it.
#9
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We fuse em all the time, but it takes a handful of maxi fuses, and one monster fuse.
On advantage to it is when we then start putting things on relays and separate circuits to battery, then we can just change the fuse and have reasonable protection for things like dash wiring and ignition switches. The monster fuse gets bigger when a 180 amp alternator is installed.
On advantage to it is when we then start putting things on relays and separate circuits to battery, then we can just change the fuse and have reasonable protection for things like dash wiring and ignition switches. The monster fuse gets bigger when a 180 amp alternator is installed.
#11
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edwinsmith (12-27-2019)
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