I've got a 91.5 D250 auto, pod injectors, 16cm housing, pump maxed,1/8 timing bump, and isspro pyro. I'm pretty new to diesel's and this site so my "knowledge" is only what I've read on DTR and the little I've learned from playing with my truck. The other day my charging system went out. I replaced all fusible links by wiring in a fuse box. I've checked the wiring twice and seems correct. I replaced the batt., alternator which was checked good before purchase, and voltage regulator. Still not charging.
From what I've read here most of ya'll who've turned your pumps up say that the tires will light up. I noticed an extreme difference in power, but can only get the tires to break free if I at least give a slight turn as I gag on it. My Pyro hits about 11oo max,no load. 0-60 about 5.5 sec.
No stop watch on hand. Anyways, just seems you guys might be having a little more of a gain than I did. Also wondering if there was any more quick, cheap mods I haven't found yet.

 

turn your fuel pin around, free mod if it hasnt been done yet, i dont know why your truck wont charge, sure there is someone who can help with that, you could also grind your own fuel pin too.

 

Im not sure of the year they started this but on the 92 and up the computer controlled the alt, It needs a crank sensor signal to tell it the engine is running before it will start charging. I see u have an external reg but that could have been wired in after and incorrectly. Some new reg's dont work right out of the box. They ground through the case of the reg, make sure its clean. Good luck

Concerning the power of your truck, did you take the tamper proof collar off of the fuel screw? It limits how far you can turn it in and would make a big difference if not already done. With it off you can turn it in alot farther.

 

You're not going to burn much rubber with the auto trans and its sloppy torque converter. It'll just sit there, rev up, and generate heat in the TC.

Put a stiff TC in it, with an appropriately adjusted valve body so there's no internal slippage.

Oh, yeah. Install the -366 (3200rpm) spring. Cheap and gives you more range of rpm to work from.

Regards, DBF

 

Would your fuel screw allow engine to run away, ours wouldnt we pulled the bolt and i welded prob.1/8-3/16 to the end of it to get more adjustment. Oh and get ol smokys pin, great guy, great part.

 

From what i here the fuel screw can cause run-away. Look in the Stickey there is a post about it.

 

I think it would more correct to say turn the fuel pin so the deepest point faces towards the front of the engine. We don't know where the pin is set right now, every one I've taken apart is different.


Key word there is CAN, some do, some don't, every pump is a little different. I have 2 of them at home that are maxed and they don't run away on me. It is however a very good idea to be prepared for it when adjusting the full power screw.

 

Thanks for all the input guys. I did however forget to mention that I have ground the fuel pin and I believe the collar is off. Actually I know the collar is off the fuel screw, but after I removed the fuel screw to remove the collar and welded on about 1/8" on to the end of it, it doesnt seem to be going in as far as I think it should. The screw seems to have about 1/8" maybe a a little more before no threads left, but it wont screw in any further. It feels as though I'm gonna break somethin if I keep trying to turn it in. Also, I had the alternator checked again and it checked good. It did just occur to me though. I didnt mount the regulator back cause I dropped the screw and was in a hurry. I saw two wires coming off the regulator plug that grounded so figured mounting it didnt matter as far as function is concerned. Guess I oughta give mounting it correct a shot.

 

The charging problem has to be in the wiring. Make sure the wires to the alternator and regulator are in good condition. It wouldn't hurt to run a ground wire from one of the screws that holds the regulator to the firewall down to the engine.

 

I've checked all wires to and from alternator, regulator, and battery to best of my ability. All seem good. I am curious about the volt/amp guage in cab working. It works, I'm pretty ignorant to charging systems, and seems that if it was in the wiring it wouldnt move when the batt. starts to die. It does seem that it has to be in the wiring though. I haven't had a chance to mount the reg. properly, I'm at work, but could it be that the reg. aint grounded properly?

 

Yes. The regulator case needs to be grounded or the regulator won't work.