OUCH!

My pump(same number) cost $180.82 from cummins. Find another cummins dealer that ships. I bought it last week.

 

I got all my stuff for $199.00 from a case dealer. i used a knife to cut the insulation instead of a grinder or dremel. also you do not have to disconnect the old fuel line from the pump. Just take off the banjo bolt the fuel line from the tank and the 2 bolts an hour of work and it runs great

 

Is there a part# or rebuild kit# for the spring for lower pressure, or is it better to use the high pressure spring and go with a regulator?

 

No. My statement in that quote was based on incorrect information. Check out this thread . . . https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=176472

Which piston pump you choose to run really depends on what your plans are for the truck. My experience has been that the low pressure pump will solidly support 350hp. The higher pressure piston pump (used with regulator) will support much more (using a free flowing supply from the tank).

Hope this helps.

 

The information on your posts is excellent. I will probably go with the 2nd gen pump with regulator and install the larger fuel lines as per your other post. Thanks for all the great information. If the low pressure pump will support 350hp how many hp will the high pressure pump support?

 

Thanks for the nice post.

I have 2 tips.

Don't start the job till you have the parts. I am having a hard time getting the fuel line.

Use a heat gun and warm up the insulation before you cut it with a knife. It cuts like butter when hot.

Still waiting for the fuel line

 

You could use fuel hose and fittings. Pump outlet is 1/4" pipe, filter head inlet is M12 x 1.5.

 

Is there any reason why a guy couldn't purchase 2 or even 3 spacers to avoid having to cut any of the insulation? Maybe a chance for more leaks, but with gaskets and some silicon, should there be any problems,or am I missing something? You would need longer bolts of course...hmmm...maybe the piston wouldn't reach the cam?

 

within the question lies the answer..........

 

Yes, thanks. I have the new pipe on order and should be coming tomorrow. I was surprised Cummins didn't have one locally or at the headquarters.

I was mostly passing on my heat gun tip. That insulation was harder than heck-- when cold.

 

Piston and diaphragm pump OUTLETs are 14MM x 1.5.

!/4-NPT will screw in the hole, and can be finally made to seal(I have done so), but is in-correct.

NPT threads TAPER; whereas, the Metric threads are STRAIGHT with no taper.

The top/outlet is made for surface-sealing via a sealing-washer under the fitting.

Here is what it takes :


http://www.discounthydraulichose.com...068-parent.htm



I have only ever seen Metric adapters available in JIC; I haven't been able to find Metric/hose-barb adapters without first having to go JIC (better by far anyway).

 

Pump, fuel transfer 3936320 1 6732-72-1350 (165.00)
Tube, fuel supply 3914753 1 1307204H1 (64.82)
gasket, Cover Plate 3939258 2 6735-71-6610 (3.72)
Spacer,Mounting 3914284 1 6732-71-6520 (23.52)
washer, sealing 3963983 2 6735-71-3840 (2.41)

Take the bolded numbers to your nearest Komatsu dealer and have them match these prices.

 

I am finding outrageous prices for the pumps in my area: from Case IH ($420) from Cummins ($320), Komatzu ($380) Don't think so.

Is there any reason why we couldn't put the 94-98 piston lift pump in our trucks: PN #4988747 that was meant for the P pump?
http://www.puredieselpower.com/catal...ump-p-193.html

Much more affordable.

 

Many are doing just that, but a regulator is absolutely necessary, as the 2nd Gen. lift-pump produces more pressure than the rear-main-seal in the VE will hold.


Actually, there is an advantage to using the higher pressure pump, in that it will push more fuel through a dirty/gelled filter, thus is more likely to remain running after a low PSI pump would have shut down.

Also, with a proper "bypass" regulator, a higher volume of fuel is constantly being cycled.

 

Check the Sticky and read where I talk about doing just that. In that same thread, others have chimed in with alternate and less expensive regulating means.

Here's a direct link ~ https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=176472