NJTman

Will do...

Angry Johnny

You are over thinking this. The switch is a momentary switch that sends a signal to the PCM to not ground the orange with light green wire that energizes the O/D solenoid. The fuse is only for the O/D OFF lamp on the switch.


Start with the simple things first. Run a wire from the battery ground to inside the cab, the vent window works great for this. Splice into the orange with light green wire either at the transmission solenoid connector or at the PCM. Run that wire into the cab. Drive the truck until it is in 3rd gear, touch the two wires together and you should get O/D. If it works you know the solenoid is good and so is the transmission. If it doesn't work you have either a bad solenoid or a problem in the transmission.



So if it does work when doing it you have a problem with either the PCM not grounding the circuit when it should (driver burnt out in PCM) or the PCM isn't getting all the information it needs to ground the wire.


Try to look for other things that would be affected by either the VSS (like speed control), coolant temp sensor (heater grid relays) or crankshaft position sensor (charging). There is also a temp sensor (actually just a switch that closes at a certain temp) in the cooler line, if that switch is closed (shorted internally or the wires melted together or such) you will not get O/D. You may also want to check your potentiometer. Many times when they stay in one position the contacts get dirty, corroded or pitted.

NJTman

I have a habit of overthinking things..



Very helpful, and I appreciate it. Just read this at 7:00am this morning.



Yesterday, I ordered a new pentiometer and pins as I have tons of the wire assemblies. Will be making a new setup on thursday or friday. So, essentially, I'm working backwards from your recommendations, eliminating the potentiometer as a possible cause first.



Once that's replaced, or updated if you will, as it's been a long time on there, if I'm still not getting OD I have a "good" used CPS that I've saved from years back. I'll swap that out, and make sure my clearances are correct.



Two out of all the recommendations will be tested.


Moving forwards,The FSM gives me some basic guidelines for testing those switches (sensors).


Thanks a bunch !


Will be back with my results of each test.

oliver foster

T-man...Do you still want me to send you down a spare O/D button today?
Or do you want too just test it with the wires like Angry Johnny suggested first?

NJTman

Following AJ's recommendations is a paramount, but you can send it anyway. I'll keep one on the shelf as a spare.

NJTman

So, where do you guys buy your transmission parts ?

It seems as though, after following AJ's recommendations, that my Solenoid must have crapped out.


I hope this is something I can do myself, otherwise, I'll be looking for a trans shop that won't rape me.

Thanks


T.

Angry Johnny

You may still be able to get them from the dealer. Here is one option. trans parts online

NJTman

thanks. I'll call them this AM. The dealer, then tpo


Do you think the replacement procedure is in the fsm?

Does the valve body need removal? If so, are there other parts, such as gaskets or o rings that get damaged when replacing? I've never attempted anything on an auto transmission, other than changing fluid, or a full r&r.

Much appreciated

NJTman

Thanks AJ The dealer said 'DISCONTINUED", but he gave me the part # I googled it, and Amazon had 1 left. Bought it.



Ordered the pan gasket and new filter from dodge. Both will be here by weeks end.

Also ordered a new trans pan by B&M. I currently have a pan on there by Derale, which is actually awesome. It's the one with the cooling tubes in it, but it's beginning to rust. The new B&M pan is made from Cast aluminum, so no rusty..... Bought the repair manual as well.



I completely forgot that I have a spare transmission in my storage unit. I'll be there today, picking that sucker up, so that I can do a "test run" on how to replace the solenoid.

Woo Hoo !

Thank you, AJ !

Angry Johnny

You will have to remove the valve body. The accumulator piston and spring will fall out but other than that, nothing else. The hardest part is getting the park rod in and out of the pawl. Make sure it's locked in park or the rod may not come out.

NJTman

So, to make a long story short. after replacing the solenoid, and road testing the truck, the truck still doesn't shift into OD.

I disconnected the orange wire, grounded while driving, thinking maybe it's a computer issue, and it still doesn't shift. Nothing changed with all the money and time and effort I spent. Tomorrow I have an appointment with a local trans shop who wants to look at it.

They have a lot of good 4.5 stars on google reviews, so I guess having them look at it, won't be any worse than what I've already done. I guess I wasted my time on this.


Thanks for all the effort from you guys., especially AJ. .

Towel thrown in.

oliver foster

Sorry to hear that T-man.

NJTman

Truck was dropped off at the rebuild shop. With any luck, I'll be served with dignity, and they will do a great job on the rebuild.

Time will tell.

NJTman

Angry Johnny

These shops generally have less skilled or beginner types doing the R&R work for the trans builders. I would go back and let them know what you found. They need to know about these things. Additionally I never remove the down pipe, it's a PITA to get to the converter bolts but it can be done. I would also let them know about your pan gasket and ask if they have it as you would like to have it back. If they don't have it ask them to either reimburse you for it or get you another one. I don't know if they will but they might if they are a reputable shop. Good luck.