I am getting ready to install a mechanical oil-pressure gauge.

Would I be better off to remove the current sending unit, install a TEE, and connect both gauges at the one location??

Or, would it be better to connect at the oil-filter housing??

On top of my filter-housing is a hex-headed/washer-headed bolt, kind of there by itself; is this the place to connect the gauge??

Thanks.

 

It's up to you, really.

That's the pressure regulator assembly. Look right next to the turbo supply line for the auxilliary oil port.

 

I would tap in at the port Dave is talkin about, the 1/8" plug next to the turbo oil supply line. Won't cost ya a thing, no T's or additional plumbing needed.

 

Okay, I see the turbo supply line.

The only other thing I see is a hex head, approximately 12mm wrench size, directly over the center of the oil filter.

The turbo supply line is about 2-1/2" from this hex-head.

If there is any other plug in the vicinity, I can't see it, or maybe I am dumb.

Could someone post a picture of the oil-pressure port, with a big red arrow pointing at the plug??

I am probably looking right at it, but I sure don't see it.

Thanks.

 

That's the one.

 

If you are going to use the plastic or nylon line be careful how it is routed on the hot side of the engine.
It might be flexible now but the heat will take its toll and make the line brittle and break spraying your engine oil out under your hood.
I have had nylon Imperial Eastman air brake line snap like a twig after being exposed to the heat of an engine.
Jim

 

you could also take out your sender, put in "T" and hook up on the left side.

 

I am considering running a rigid steel brake-line from the port on the filter-housing to the left-rear vicinity of the engine, and tap the nylon hose there.

It is hard to make the flexible hose look neat and tidy, especially since it is barely long enough to reach via the most direct route.

Thanks.

 

I think my oil pressure gauge came with 10 feet of plain jane plastic pressure/boost/oil tubing. You can get just about any length you want from most places. I've been running the same line for about 4 years now, no leaks, or problems. I've got it routed around the front of the engine all the way around the driverside back to the wiring harness that is present on that side. Split black flex tubing or whatever it's called is what I have the alternator tach, oil pressure, and coolant temp wiring stuck in. Very clean look. Looks factory. You won't find any loose wires under my hood.

 

Man, it is hot out there.

I got the gauge hooked up.

For the present time, I just used the nylon tube that came with the gauge.

The package said "includes six feet of tubing"; my measuring tape must need calibrating; because, all I could measure was 49".

Cranked her up and no oil squirting all over the cab, no leaks under the hood, gauge jumped up to 55 PSI cold idle, of course it was at least 100* in the shade, so I am not sure that would classify as a cold idle.

Many thanks to everyone's input.

Like I said, I was looking right at the oil pressure plug; I was just afraid that that was the pressure/bypass business.

Now, when it quits raining, all I lack is zip-stripping the tube safely out of harm's way.

When it cools down outside, I intend to route a steel line that looks like Cummins intended it to be there; of course, as long as this works, that may be a while happening.

Thanks.

 

This will be my next oil pressure gauge...

Equus 2" Electric Oil Pressure Gauge

Forget running hot oil into the cab if you don't have to. One less thing to break or leak and leave you stranded too.

 

I replumbed my gauge line.

I installed a stainless BALL-valve, in the port above the oil-filter, plumbed copper line from there to the fire-wall, and plastic the rest of the way to gauge.

The BALL-valve is there in case of a line rupture; all I have to do is shut off the valve and no more leak.

I believe I will eventually relocate it to a TEE fitting at the same location as the factory gauge sender, as it is a more protected area; and, the location above the oil-filter is susceptible to getting knocked around when messing with the air-intake plumbing and such.