I know we all like pictures but here is my upcoming project.

I finally forked the cash for a ported and polished head. Bought a used one and then decided to send it to c-tech for some work.

Pnp head flows about 180cfm at the lift I run but I got bigger valves with it so I'm hoping for a little more out of it. Along with the p&p and larger valves I got the head cut for the newer tophat style stem seals, hamilton springs and retainers/keepers. Valve seats cut obviously and orings. I will be pulling the motor to do the work as it will just be easier to do all I need to do. I also have hamilton pushrods to go in, a fluidampr and I'll be doing a little magic to the ip and motor in an attempt to sneak a few ponies out of it. I also have a pusher pump I'll be installing to keep my fuel pressure up under wot. That'll be on a switch for only when I need it. Going to install an electric valet and maybe a shutoff for the ip return for wot to keep case pressure up. Going to retrofit a case pressure gauge too. Once it is all back together I will try to tune it a bit and throw it on the dyno and see what she lays down. Once tuned if I can't break 450 I'll be a little disappointed. Next year if money allows I'll be getting a new set of injectors. Last items I have on my wish list would be a nice w/m kit, new intercooler and some compounds... Compounds would be a tight fit though. If I go compounds I may go real small to get response with the ve fueling. S300g and s467. The 467 flows a LOT of air for the size of compressor it is and that combo would be enough air for 500hp,which is the most I'd ever have anyway, unless I ppump or go 14mm head&rotor.

Anyway on to the shiny parts...







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Intake bowl


Exhaust bowl


Stock exhaust valve


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Stock intake valve


Oversize exhaust valve
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps47bde129.jpg

Oversize intake valve


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Size difference between new and old exhaust valves


Size difference between new and old intake valves


Oversize amd stock. Oversize are much heavier



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Wow, sweet machine work, how much are you into that head complete for?
Is there any hp gains to be had with a 5 angle valve grind like there is in the alcohol race motors we build here?
Curious why the tooling marks were left in the bowl area and not polished out with a die ginder sandpaper flapper. Maybe to keep the air turbulent (intake side).
That thing is a beauty.

 

Hp gains probably not, minimal airflow improvement probably. If you'll notice the valves were unshrouded though, which will net reasonable gains in air flow at low lift. I think mine is a 5 angle. I didn't count them though.

The valves were $30 each,so $360 all in. Pnp, orings and cutting the valves was a package and it cost $1250. Cutting the stems for the newer tophat style seals was $72. The hamilton springs were $550

All in it was $1682 for the work and new valves. Then another $550 for the spring/retainers/keepers. Plus shipping for everything

Orings/pnp/cut valves is all most would ever need anyway and that's only $1250. And most only need #60 springs which are like $110 so one could do well only shelling out $1360 plus shipping both ways. You would have to remember to send your old valves with the head though. Or just send it off assembled still

I actually bought the head used so I didnt have to have my truck down for like 2 months. Plus I have a second motor without a head so now I'll have 2 complete motors, minus injectors for the spare motor. When money allows I will rebuild the second motor and get it in something, or sell it.

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Wow...those be some new shinny parts...and some sweet head work...Congrats!! Hope the numbers you see are worth the cash layout.

 

I doubt I'll see any real hp gains. My setup lights real early and I am however hoping to eliminate my surging, which will unlock all my use able potential power. Right now my power is severely limited by this brutal surging I'm getting. If thats gone and nothing else changes I'd be happy. Some low-mid throttle low rpm smoke and temp reduction would be ideal too.

Here is one more pic of the intake bowl straight on. The intake isn't polished like the exhaust but I think that may be for a reason. I thought about using a little sand paper in there but I don't wanna mark up the valve seats.


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One other thing, Last fuel tank I got 20.5us mpg. I'm hoping the new parts don't hurt my fuel mileage, which is awesome for how heavy the truck weighs and the 33" tires I'm running at the moment. The truck is a far bigger wind break (aka brick) going down the hwy than a first gen and closer to or over 1500lbs heavier than my 91.5 rclb w250 auto se was too. I feel if this motor was in a 2wd 5spd it would get over 25mpg. I always thought guys who said their mileage was that high were full of dung but now I believe it's actually possible.

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Good day, Rick 12V:

In regards to your install of the fluidampr: How did you get the Autoworld/destroked Tach ring to interface with the larger Damper? I ended up ordering one for my '87 Fummins project, but Autoworld said their tach kit only worked with the stock dampr.

 

FWIW, I bought a Dakota Digital tach kit to use on mine. It reads off the ring gear so it doesn't interfere with changing the belt.

 

Rick ...... first photo in Post #2 ....
Crack ..... ?

Hoping it's just my old eyes ....

 

180cfm on the intake, . . . what's the exhaust?

I can't tell by the pics, and the unshrouding doesn't help me see, but are the valves substantially recessed in the head? Is the head now running valve-seat inserts?

What thickness head-gasket are you planning on running?

Inquiring minds want to know.

 

I don't know the flow on the exhaust with the big valves. Or the intake. CTech never did get back to me. I think with the stock sized valves at 0.5" lift it's right around 180-5int/190-5exh. CTech has since changed their site and don't have the flow sheets on there last I looked. I never did get any kind of flow paper for my specific head. Because it's C&C I don't think they flow each individual head. With the 188/220 steel cam that was around my peak lift. Their heads have really great flow at low lift compared to stock. unshrouding plays a big role I'm sure.

I never asked about seat inserts. I don't think so? the valve face depth was set to 0.055" which was the minimum for the 188/220 cam.

Piston protrusion was about 0.025" so I had to run a 0.010" over HG. No fly cuts on the marine 64mm wide bowl pistons.

She ran good until the old 181/210 cam ate the cam journals and turned the block into scrap metal because I didn't catch it quick enough

I don't think it is your old eyes. I see it too. I saw it before in the pictures but I actually thought it was a hair on my computer screen. I don't know how or why there would be a crack there....

I had a good machine shop macine the dampr itself for a 12 pulse tach because the spacer/signal plate that bolted on with the factory damper that comes in the kit wouldn't work.

The fliudampr has 2 signal notches opposite from each other so I got the machine shop to mirror those 2 notches perfectly spaced apart around the damper so it wouldn't mess with the balance of it.

Refer to here for what I mean. in the short time that the motor lasted, it worked flawlessly
post# 31
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...3/#post3223948

 

Thanks for the info. My '87 needs the 55 tooth tone ring I guess so I'm SOL. Besides, I think the upgraded 9" damper should be an improvement over the stock small one at least. I'm painting my engine Cummins Apex Red.