Notch worn in throttle shaft clockspring.
I moved the throttle shaft to the inboard hole today on my '91 Non/IC today.
I also shimmed the pedal a little to remove some free play. I was still getting a tiny bit of free travel (maybe 1/4" on the pedal) and was assuming it was just the cable flexing. Then, I watched the throttle shaft closely and it was moving this 1/4". Then, I was watching the linkage and the play was a little notch worn in that clockspring. Almost looks like if let go, it could snap right at that point.
I recommend checking yours, not sure if the throttle would stick if it snapped?
I haven't tampered with the pump yet but I'm going to flip the clockspring over when I do.
Anyone else seeing this.
I also shimmed the pedal a little to remove some free play. I was still getting a tiny bit of free travel (maybe 1/4" on the pedal) and was assuming it was just the cable flexing. Then, I watched the throttle shaft closely and it was moving this 1/4". Then, I was watching the linkage and the play was a little notch worn in that clockspring. Almost looks like if let go, it could snap right at that point.
I recommend checking yours, not sure if the throttle would stick if it snapped?
I haven't tampered with the pump yet but I'm going to flip the clockspring over when I do.
Anyone else seeing this.
ya.. All the ones I run into are usally worn pretty good, some worse than others. I usally weld up the grove on the shaft itself where the spring wears on it. Then depending on the condition of the spring put a new one on.. Think they are like 5 bucks.
Yea, I was thought about putting a tack weld then grinding it round again.
Prolly order a new one when I order a 366 for it.
Then I'll call up Richie to help me put it in ;D
Prolly order a new one when I order a 366 for it.
Then I'll call up Richie to help me put it in ;D
I just ordered a new spring for mine. Gonna have to weld up the stud it rides on also. The price I got for the throttle arm was $68. My spring cost me $18.
Typical when I work on my own stuff, always find more stuff wrong or something goes sideways.
Typical when I work on my own stuff, always find more stuff wrong or something goes sideways.
Just flip the spring over,
The pin on mine was also worn so I slipped a Buchanan crimp barrel over the pin and it gave the breakover spring a new surface to ride against, it also tightened up the slop in the throttle. If it is loose I will crimp it a bit so it is tight.
When it wears down I simply replace it with another one, since they are made of copper it is softer than the spring so it saves the spring from wearing, also I like to keep a small blob of grease on the connection, I have to do this every time I wash my engine though.
I use Buchanan’s to used to connect ground wires together in electrical panels, you can get them at Home Depot, a box of 50 will cost about $3.00 so you will have a few spares if you drop some.
Jim
The pin on mine was also worn so I slipped a Buchanan crimp barrel over the pin and it gave the breakover spring a new surface to ride against, it also tightened up the slop in the throttle. If it is loose I will crimp it a bit so it is tight.
When it wears down I simply replace it with another one, since they are made of copper it is softer than the spring so it saves the spring from wearing, also I like to keep a small blob of grease on the connection, I have to do this every time I wash my engine though.
I use Buchanan’s to used to connect ground wires together in electrical panels, you can get them at Home Depot, a box of 50 will cost about $3.00 so you will have a few spares if you drop some.
Jim
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Around my area, I have seen many with the spring already broken, the one in my Ford included.
For one with a broken spring, the local fix is to put a short length of 1/8" 7018 welding rod down through the holes immediately behind the pin that the spring wears against.
You have to hold the spring apart with needle-nose and work the rod into position.
Once "fixed", the throttle works as originally intended and the welding-rod/pin takes the wear.
Mine has been like this for nearly five years with a shiny new spring resting in the glove-box.
For one with a broken spring, the local fix is to put a short length of 1/8" 7018 welding rod down through the holes immediately behind the pin that the spring wears against.
You have to hold the spring apart with needle-nose and work the rod into position.
Once "fixed", the throttle works as originally intended and the welding-rod/pin takes the wear.
Mine has been like this for nearly five years with a shiny new spring resting in the glove-box.
Hey I just had the cap to a small medicine bottle that I just filled to the top with crimp barrels fall off in my tool bag, I think I recovered about 100 of them for now.
If you use them you will usually have a handful rolling around somewhere they don't belong.
If you are not familiar with what I am talking about, here is what they look like.
http://www.idealindustries.ca/produc...ctor_steel.php
If you use them you will usually have a handful rolling around somewhere they don't belong.
If you are not familiar with what I am talking about, here is what they look like.
http://www.idealindustries.ca/produc...ctor_steel.php
If you are not familiar with what I am talking about, here is what they look like.
http://www.idealindustries.ca/produc...ctor_steel.php
http://www.idealindustries.ca/produc...ctor_steel.php
Around my area, those are called "splice-caps" and are used on HOTs, Commons, and GROUNDs.
When used on HOTs and Commons, a mating "splice-cap insulator" pops over the crimped splice.
I have had a set of "splice-cap crimpers" for many years.
I have only ever seen them made of copper; I didn't know steel ones were available.
Thanks Jim.
Around my area, those are called "splice-caps" and are used on HOTs, Commons, and GROUNDs.
When used on HOTs and Commons, a mating "splice-cap insulator" pops over the crimped splice.
I have had a set of "splice-cap crimpers" for many years.
I have only ever seen them made of copper; I didn't know steel ones were available.
Thanks Jim.
When used on HOTs and Commons, a mating "splice-cap insulator" pops over the crimped splice.
I have had a set of "splice-cap crimpers" for many years.
I have only ever seen them made of copper; I didn't know steel ones were available.
Thanks Jim.

I also use them on the hot side, mainly on the older apartment and houses tenants will have no electricity in half of the house so I will find several burned recieptle either loose screws of the push in connections have become loose and caught fire so I will cut back the wires and make up the hots and neutrals in the box with pigtails instead of the 4 or 6 wires back onto another recieptle for those use my T&B crimpers and I usually work with the line hot.
The caps are really old technology; my dad has been an electrician since the late 50’s and I used to go to work with him back in the 60’s and wire up switches and recieptles for him, back then the insulated caps were called diapers because you hooked the cap, pulled it around the wire and put the diaper over the splice.
Heck I even used to make Western Union splices and Tap Splices, solder them and wrap them with friction tape.
I also use a larger crimp that I think 5/16" dia.
Jim
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