I have a 93 club cab, 2 wd, auto trans, K&N air filter, flow master muff, EGT pre turbo & Boost guages.
Out of the hole it isn't to bad but if I am cruising at about 60 mph and I stomp on it, it moves slowly up to 70 and even slower to 75 or 80. It takes too long to try to go faster and I have to have the pedal down all the way to do that so I don't try to go faster than that. When I am pulling a travel trailer, a 20 footer, if I hit any grade my egts go to 1200 plus and I have to really watch it, even when I lock out the OD. It only has 117,00 miles on it. The fuel injection pump is newly rebuilt.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

flyingd

 

Throttle linkage is a typiical problem. but your egts are up also. I would inspect your intercooler boots etc. how much boost are you making? is this a new problem directly after the pump rebuild?

 

This is not a problem that started after the pump rebuild. Boost is usally around 15 maybe up to 17 or 18 if I put my foot into it. I have looked, not closely, at the boots and they seem fine.

 

This is a new problem? If you are new to the truck, it could just be that you need to swap your turbo housing to lower your EGT's with for the pump settings. . .

If it is a new problem for you, it could be excessively retarded timing, but it sounds to me as though you have a low boost problem. I would change the fuel filter (or at least check post filter fuel pressure) because low pressure retards timing. If that doesn't help, I would pressure check the aftercooler and tubing. If that is all good, I would check the pump timing . . .

Good luck,

Alec

 

This is not a new problem. How do I check fuel presure, what is the aftercooler and tubing. What so I need to do my own timing??

I saw a 16cm housing in these classifieds, a 35. Is it the right one?

thanks for the feed back. I need all the help I can get.

Larry

 

The intercooler and tubing is the system that carries the boost air from the turbo to the intake manifold. It has those rubber boots with clamps. Check those.. they can loosen over time and you'll loose some boost which will raise temps and increase smoke.
Your timing is probably to retarded and we can tweak that for you in a bit...
Since the pump was recently rebuilt and, based on the symptoms you describe regarding top speed, I think the "high idle" or governor setting is set too low.
What you describe is the engine pulling hard then very suddenly easing off and finally/quickly falling on it's face with the last few MPH taking a long time to come up.... that is governor setting. You can alter that using the "high idle" screw. It is located on the drivers fender side of the pump and is usually covered by a metal cap. It looks just like the normal idle screw but it restricts the rearward movement of the throttle stop plate toward the firewall as you depress the throttle.
Cycle the throttle to wide open and watch to see if the throttle shaft and the throttle plate come into good contact. If they do, you can remove the tamper cover (may void pump rebuild warranty) and back the screw out (towards the firewall) about 3 full turns. That will allow the pump to pull hard a bit further up into the RPM band. (maybe the pump shop will do that adjustment for you for free since you had it rebuilt there kind of thing.)
The pump timing is another issue. Normally these model years have a pump timing value of 1.25mm plunger lift. That is too retarded. It was done for emissions reasons and nothing else. Have that upped to 1.5mm or about 16-17 degrees advance. You can do this by yourself if you want.
The injection pump has three large nuts that connect it to the gear cover. I believe they are 15mm.
One is in plain sight about mid way up the pump flange. The others are located around the top toward the engine block and, around and under the bottom of the pump again, toward the engine block. Finally there is a 10mm bolt that is below and back of the injection pump. At first it doesn't seem to be related but it is.
Loosen all three NUTS and the BOLT.
Then grunt and groan while pushing the pump top toward the rocker covers...
Note that the pump flange and the gear cover have a faint 'slot' mark on them (some times the rebuilt pumps don't have one.) What you are going to do is rotate the pump upward until there is approx. 1/8" gap, then tighten the pump down. That will raise your timing and it will be very close to the recommended range I noted above.
I'll try to post some pics for you or a link to my picture gallery for references.

Check out this series of pictures and they'll give you some ideas on the locations of the adjustments.

http://www.turbodieselregister.com/u...68&albumid=453

pastor bob....

 

Flyingd, if you want to start a new relationship with your truck, follow the directions Bushy gave you. Apache's advice is a real issue too though. Make sure all the slop is taken out of your throttle linkage and cable. Make sure you get full travel when your pedal is on the floor. Most guys have had to tweak these on these trucks.

 

Thanks guys,

I will be trying these ideas as soon as I can get time out in the garage.

I will let you know how is goes

Larry

 

I read here almost everyday, but never really post

I currently have a 91.5 truck I bought used about 2 years ago. Had 102k on it when I got it and it's at about 118k now.

I've owned a 91.0 250, 94 chassis cab and 2k 3500 4x4 all with CTD's

This 91.5 truck was a total pig on excelleration with a 1-2 second point before each shift (auto) where it would plain off and stop pulling. Felt like it was pulling 30k behind it when empty. I had set the kickdown and other linkages per the factory manual too. Going up a bridge, jumping on the interstate or pulling simple trailers was embarassing. I've been reading trying to decide what to try first. I didn't want to touch the pumps 'inards' because I thought it should perform better in stock form. My stock 91.0 back in the day would smoke this truck.

This morning I put 2 turns on the high speed, checked pedal and linkage for full travel (adjusted) and WOW did it wake it back up to where I thought it should be. It pulls WAY harder and shifts are quick and snappy. I mean MAJOR difference! RPMS sound good and not too high.

Just want to thank the people sharing all this great info on here!

I'm much happier now!
Den

 

I did the things that Bushy suggested and it looks like I gained some good power. My son likes it better too.
The only thing is that the EGT's went up a bit also. Is this normal or do I still have a problem.. When I hit the throttle it went up to 1200 degrees pretty fast. Just driving around town it is around 800-900 degrees. Any more suggestions??\
Thanks for the good info that you guys have given me already.

Larry

 

Open up the exhaust and consider putting on a 16cm turbo housing.