Hey guys. Truck electronics were acting weird the other day, and turns out I only had 10V at the battery. My tach was bouncing all around and my turn signals didn't work. It was all of a sudden too.

Alternator off and to the electric shop. He said I had 1 bad diode, and something on the slip ring. However, the 1 bad diode should have still given me 1/2 capacity... so that probably was not it. $80 later plus $45 for a new belt while I was at it and still no charge.

I have 12v at BOTH of the fields... I thought only 1 should have 12v?

Anyway I can test the voltage regulator? I did some searching, and my ground wire looks good and solid and clean from the core support to the - terminal. Continuity from - terminal to the alternator ground is only 2ohms with my cheap multi meter. Any suggestions? I'm thinking VR but don't know how to test it.

 

I dont know how to test it either but they are common to fail. I just changed mine out the new one from autozone was under 20 bucks. They have a cheap one and an expensive one. I was told by wannadiesel that people have had better luck with the cheap one. I hope this helps.

 

Got it. Simple Voltage Regulator problem. Guess I wasted $130... but it's nice to have a new serpentine I guess, and now the Alternator is up to 100% capacity with the new diode block (can't replace just one).

Thanks

-Luke

 

The last VR I had fail blew my headlights and blew the caps off the battery. NICE!!

 

too much then Rich?

This one is putting out 14.7vdc at the battery if I remember correct from 30 minutes ago. Napa one Richie?

 

I'm not sure what brand the one was that fried but the replacement was a Big A ( standard ignition ). The old one went from fine to max charge. It frigged up on the way to work and before I could figure out what was up I flicked the high and low beam and it popped everything. I put a new reg in and drove home with just the parking lights. It pushed the acid out of the battery and frigged up the liner under the hood.

 

wow