no start - electric problem with fuel soleniod?
no start - electric problem with fuel soleniod?
So, three days of shop work on the veg system (I'll report more soon) and I've hit a wall right at the finish line.
We needed to tap into a live wire that was on when the ignition was on, and the fuel soleniod was recommended. some other frustrating stuff happened electrically, and we thought we had it all worked out, and got up this morning to start up, and...
I get dash lights, glow plugs going, then when I turn the key to ignition, nothing. No sound, no turnover/crank, just silence.
So I dig around for a little while, and I find that the fuel soleniod (and I assume there's just the one, though I see people talking about the fuel 'shut off' solenoid... I'm talking about the one right behind {closer to the block} the throtle cables) I find that that fuel soleniod is unplugged: we had pulled it off the pins while tapping into the wire.
So, I work them (there's two) back onto the pins, and try again: same problem. Maybe I put the wrong one on the wrong pin; go back, switch them: same problem.
Questions:
- could I have fried it somehow by putting the wrong wire on the wrong pin?
- is there a fuse that I could have screwed up in this process somewhere that is cutting me off?
- could it be something else? It's got to be electrical.
I'd love to solve this today.
Tys
We needed to tap into a live wire that was on when the ignition was on, and the fuel soleniod was recommended. some other frustrating stuff happened electrically, and we thought we had it all worked out, and got up this morning to start up, and...
I get dash lights, glow plugs going, then when I turn the key to ignition, nothing. No sound, no turnover/crank, just silence.
So I dig around for a little while, and I find that the fuel soleniod (and I assume there's just the one, though I see people talking about the fuel 'shut off' solenoid... I'm talking about the one right behind {closer to the block} the throtle cables) I find that that fuel soleniod is unplugged: we had pulled it off the pins while tapping into the wire.
So, I work them (there's two) back onto the pins, and try again: same problem. Maybe I put the wrong one on the wrong pin; go back, switch them: same problem.
Questions:
- could I have fried it somehow by putting the wrong wire on the wrong pin?
- is there a fuse that I could have screwed up in this process somewhere that is cutting me off?
- could it be something else? It's got to be electrical.
I'd love to solve this today.
Tys
If you truck's anything like my '93, ~
There's a dark Blue 14 awg wire that comes from the ignition, and feeds the Ignition Sense pin of the PCM, the speed control, the ASD relay, the A/C relay, the two grid heater relays, the thermo switch for the KSB solenoid, the fuel cut-off solenoid, the overdrive solenoid, and finally, the water in fuel, wait to start, overdrive over-ride, and check engine lamps.
Note, while most of the above components are supplied with switched 12vdc by the blue 14awg wire, they're actually being fired individualy by the PCM grounding the other side.
Tapping into that dark blue 14awg wire be it under the hood, or the dash should provide what you need though I don't know how much additional current on top of what it provides now. If you've a heavy load, you might do best supporting it via a relay that's fired with the blue wire.
Check all the fuses as it appears at least number two and three have their hands in it to some degree.
Hope this helps.
BTW, the two connector lugs on the fuel solenoid, are one and the same.
And the veggi stuff, did you get some air in the lines? perhaps you need to burp the injection lines.
There's a dark Blue 14 awg wire that comes from the ignition, and feeds the Ignition Sense pin of the PCM, the speed control, the ASD relay, the A/C relay, the two grid heater relays, the thermo switch for the KSB solenoid, the fuel cut-off solenoid, the overdrive solenoid, and finally, the water in fuel, wait to start, overdrive over-ride, and check engine lamps.
Note, while most of the above components are supplied with switched 12vdc by the blue 14awg wire, they're actually being fired individualy by the PCM grounding the other side.

Tapping into that dark blue 14awg wire be it under the hood, or the dash should provide what you need though I don't know how much additional current on top of what it provides now. If you've a heavy load, you might do best supporting it via a relay that's fired with the blue wire.
Check all the fuses as it appears at least number two and three have their hands in it to some degree.
Hope this helps.

BTW, the two connector lugs on the fuel solenoid, are one and the same.

And the veggi stuff, did you get some air in the lines? perhaps you need to burp the injection lines.
Fixed it! (not sure how)
Thanks for the help BC, after reading your post, and going back over everything, I switched a couple connections, the ground, and basically got confused enough to not remember where I started, and then hooked everything back up (still tied into that dark blue wire) and **** if it didn't fire right up.
on my way back to the house, I was talking to a friend, and as he laughed at me about my confused panic, he said that maybe the truck was simply shut off in gear, and needed to be in park... my god, it might have been right.
anyway, either I'm really good, or a complete idiot, either way, it started up.
thanks again,
Tys
on my way back to the house, I was talking to a friend, and as he laughed at me about my confused panic, he said that maybe the truck was simply shut off in gear, and needed to be in park... my god, it might have been right.
anyway, either I'm really good, or a complete idiot, either way, it started up.
thanks again,
Tys
Originally Posted by tyssniffen
on my way back to the house, I was talking to a friend, and as he laughed at me about my confused panic, he said that maybe the truck was simply shut off in gear, and needed to be in park... my god, it might have been right.

I'm glad you got it sorted out.
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