New truck broke down day one! No charge!
#17
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Just re-thinking my thoughts. I don't see any way that grounding the PCM connection can hurt the PCM. If it was connected to battery it would be hurt. Hopefully that didn't happen. It might be a simple as a bad wire or connector between the alternator and the PCM.
#19
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Only 4 fusable links.
There are 2 orange wires soddered to the big green wire.
So my OD works, my cruise control works. Windows and locks work. AC doesn't. I only have 4 fuse able links. There are 2 orange wires soldered to the big green link.
#20
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need some help thith the fuseable links.
The voltage regulator is built into the PCM. What's happening with the PCM is it isn't running. PO installed a toggle switch to ground the PCM terminal on the alternator and full field it. That, by the way, is a good way to blow the top off the battery.
As to why the PCM isn't running. It could be one of the 2 power feeds to it. One of the feeds comes from the same ASD relay that drives the generator. It could also be grounding, and it could be missing the pulse feed from the CPS.
Here's my best guess based on analysis and experience.
Assumption 1. The alternator won't run with the switch off because the PCM wire to the alternator is disconnected and the toggle switch is connected in it's place. If there's two wires under the terminal with the wire to the toggle switch, I am wrong in that assumption. If correct, however, continue with the logic.
Assumption 2. When the alternator is fielded, a load is put on the ASD relay, maybe warming things up a bit near it.
Observation from experience. The wiring at the ASD relay is exposed to road spray. If it is pierced during trouble shooting and not repaired (a drop of liquid electrical tape on the pinhole) the wire inside the insulation will corrode until it parts.
Check the power at the ASD battery connection on the PCM (Pin 57) It is the dark green with orange tracer wire that comes from the same pin on the ASD relay as the DG/O wire to the alternator. Molest the wiring near the ASD relay while you check it. I think you'll find your problem. Broken wires under the ASD relay are more common than you might think.
Odds are the regulator in the PCM is fine. Hook it back up. I did notice you said the wire is spliced. If the PO originally grounded the wrong terminal, he may have blown the regulator circuit in the PCM. In that case you'd need to replace the PCM, or bypass it with an external voltage regulator, which isn't a big deal. The OD circuit should still run, though.
hope it helps.
As to why the PCM isn't running. It could be one of the 2 power feeds to it. One of the feeds comes from the same ASD relay that drives the generator. It could also be grounding, and it could be missing the pulse feed from the CPS.
Here's my best guess based on analysis and experience.
Assumption 1. The alternator won't run with the switch off because the PCM wire to the alternator is disconnected and the toggle switch is connected in it's place. If there's two wires under the terminal with the wire to the toggle switch, I am wrong in that assumption. If correct, however, continue with the logic.
Assumption 2. When the alternator is fielded, a load is put on the ASD relay, maybe warming things up a bit near it.
Observation from experience. The wiring at the ASD relay is exposed to road spray. If it is pierced during trouble shooting and not repaired (a drop of liquid electrical tape on the pinhole) the wire inside the insulation will corrode until it parts.
Check the power at the ASD battery connection on the PCM (Pin 57) It is the dark green with orange tracer wire that comes from the same pin on the ASD relay as the DG/O wire to the alternator. Molest the wiring near the ASD relay while you check it. I think you'll find your problem. Broken wires under the ASD relay are more common than you might think.
Odds are the regulator in the PCM is fine. Hook it back up. I did notice you said the wire is spliced. If the PO originally grounded the wrong terminal, he may have blown the regulator circuit in the PCM. In that case you'd need to replace the PCM, or bypass it with an external voltage regulator, which isn't a big deal. The OD circuit should still run, though.
hope it helps.
Thanks.
I checked the ASD and everything else and its all tip top.
Except on my big green wire to the duck foot. It has 2 orange wires soldered into them. I posted some picks in the previous post. One of my fuseable links is complete burnt out.
Cruse Control is working.
Over drive is working
A/C compressor has power to it, but not working.
Some things that's wired, my coolant gauge and oil Pressure gauge climb with RPM increase. And the coolant gauge spikes when I use the power locks if the trucks running or not.
I am sure that the Alternator being wired to full field charge has to-do with the burnt out fuseable link and the soldered wires to the green link.
I have scoured the Sticky's and searched past threads for days now trying to gain info on what the 2 orange wires are that are soldered and try and get this thing figured out.
For those who are more knowledgeable with the wiring or have a copy of the diagram of the wiring system please help!
Thanks.
#21
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Dodge Factory Service Manuals - DODGE RAM FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL - CD ('92)
In the mean time, This might help:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...4/#post3236151
#22
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Like ^^^^ said. Trying to sort that out without the diagram set is an exercise in futility.
Full fielded without management, that alternator is capable of a serious welding style arc. Yes, it can destroy things.
The dash magic sounds like a faulty ground.
Full fielded without management, that alternator is capable of a serious welding style arc. Yes, it can destroy things.
The dash magic sounds like a faulty ground.
#23
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On our trucks it's more likely a bad fusible link at the duck foot.
My truck would turn on the water in fuel, brake warning, and low fuel lights when I tried to use the power windows or power locks. The problem turned out to be the fusible links.
These trucks do weird things as they age.
My truck would turn on the water in fuel, brake warning, and low fuel lights when I tried to use the power windows or power locks. The problem turned out to be the fusible links.
These trucks do weird things as they age.
#24
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On our trucks it's more likely a bad fusible link at the duck foot.
My truck would turn on the water in fuel, brake warning, and low fuel lights when I tried to use the power windows or power locks. The problem turned out to be the fusible links.
These trucks do weird things as they age.
My truck would turn on the water in fuel, brake warning, and low fuel lights when I tried to use the power windows or power locks. The problem turned out to be the fusible links.
These trucks do weird things as they age.
The FL wires look NORMAL.
I had no idea mine were toast until I tested them for continuity. They were broken inside the sheath, and when I cut that sheathing off, the wire was GREEN fuzz and barely there, hence the "intermittent" issues mentioned above..
As J Martin has said before, it's probably a result in a "testing" light that poked a hole in the sheathing and was never properly sealed up.
#26
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There's about 8 pages of diagrams for the major engine compartment stuff. It's all in the FSM we keep telling people to get.
There's 91.5 diagrams in the FAQ. Should be close.
Index of /Dodge_CTD/1991.5-Wiring_Diagrams
There's 91.5 diagrams in the FAQ. Should be close.
Index of /Dodge_CTD/1991.5-Wiring_Diagrams
#27
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pictures
ok, thanks every one.
I know its a fuseable link issue. I don't know if you can tell from the pics I posted that the top wire is burnt out, and their wires soldered to the big green link.
I have a manual coming. I'm just trying to get a jump on it so that I can drive it reliably.
My WIF, WTS lights don't come on. The ALB light is flashy when volts low while driving.
I just have jumpy coolant gauge and oil pressure gauge while increasing in RPM's and the coolant gauge spikes when I use the door locks.
once I figure out this fusable links and mystery solder job, I am sure the alternator issue will be good, and I can either run it normal, or have to wire up an external VR.
Driving it with the toggle charger is not an option. I had a battery blow up in my 90' CTD when the VR went south.
I know its a fuseable link issue. I don't know if you can tell from the pics I posted that the top wire is burnt out, and their wires soldered to the big green link.
I have a manual coming. I'm just trying to get a jump on it so that I can drive it reliably.
My WIF, WTS lights don't come on. The ALB light is flashy when volts low while driving.
I just have jumpy coolant gauge and oil pressure gauge while increasing in RPM's and the coolant gauge spikes when I use the door locks.
once I figure out this fusable links and mystery solder job, I am sure the alternator issue will be good, and I can either run it normal, or have to wire up an external VR.
Driving it with the toggle charger is not an option. I had a battery blow up in my 90' CTD when the VR went south.
#28
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If I recall correctly, each of the fusible links feeds one column of fuses in the fuse box. It's a simple arrangement on paper but leads to weird problems when the circuits break down. Anything in the affected column of fuses can start acting up. This includes ALL fused circuits inside the cab.
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