New Engine, gauges, injectors turbo housing boost only at 20psi... Feedback please
#1
New Engine, gauges, injectors turbo housing boost only at 20psi... Feedback please
I have been struggling with this truck for a while. This site and your opinions have been invaluable.
Thank you everyone for the help.
Nitty gritty.
As some of you may remember I put a 1990 pump on a 1992 engine. It was slow (turned down pump from 1990 + smaller injectors from 1992).
I changed the injectors out and put a 16cm ex housing on. Turned the pump up approx 3/4 to 1 turn on the fuel screw.
First time ever having a boost gauge in this truck and it peaks at 20.
My 1993 Peaks at 25 with a 18cm housing.
What is the problem?? The truck seems better than it was before the upgrades on the new motor, but not yet what it was like with the old engine.
Do I need to turn the fuel up more to get the boost back??
Thank you everyone for the help.
Nitty gritty.
As some of you may remember I put a 1990 pump on a 1992 engine. It was slow (turned down pump from 1990 + smaller injectors from 1992).
I changed the injectors out and put a 16cm ex housing on. Turned the pump up approx 3/4 to 1 turn on the fuel screw.
First time ever having a boost gauge in this truck and it peaks at 20.
My 1993 Peaks at 25 with a 18cm housing.
What is the problem?? The truck seems better than it was before the upgrades on the new motor, but not yet what it was like with the old engine.
Do I need to turn the fuel up more to get the boost back??
#2
Registered User
Yup, turn up the power screw. I was only making about 20psi with one turn and my 16cm housing. Make sure your AFC pin is turned to the deepest point. Also the auto probably doest put the same amount load as you 5sp does.
#3
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The 1990 pump was turned down from what? The stock setting is a little higher for the nonIC vs the IC.
I say you need to turn the fuel up some more. Takes fuel to make boost.
Daniel
I say you need to turn the fuel up some more. Takes fuel to make boost.
Daniel
#5
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Simple. Turn the full power screw up. That's where the power is. Starwheel adjustments and the fuel pin help but you really shouldnt need to touch that stuff except for fine tuning unless your pump is already maxxed out. I haven't touched my starwheel and my fuel pin is on the shalowest setting and I can more than roast the tires if i want. I've already got too much boost (42 psi) and more fuel than the turbo can handle. Now if I can just get this new manifold and wastegate actuator put on.......
#6
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Throw a 3200k spring in there crank on that fuel screw some more and I'm sure you'll see some more boost. Before I messed with any thing I was at around 18-20psi now I get about 36psi but I want more
Ryan
Ryan
#7
Thank you for the responses guys.
I gut the exhaust off before the muffler tonight and it went to 25 PSI. As soon as auto meter sends me a actual working EGT I will get on the full power screw. !!! Can't wait.
Is there anywhere I can get a bigger downpipe for my 1990??
I gut the exhaust off before the muffler tonight and it went to 25 PSI. As soon as auto meter sends me a actual working EGT I will get on the full power screw. !!! Can't wait.
Is there anywhere I can get a bigger downpipe for my 1990??
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#9
I can tommarow get a nice custom 3" system installed for like $150.
My biggest problem is the pipe that goes through the transfer case has been crushed down to 1.5 inch oval by a previous owner.
I am very tempted to get the 3" done as far as convience and cost. I am not running a muffler either so that should help.
#10
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I would NOT waste the money on 3". Save that $150 and put it towards a 4" system. Lots of people build their own with some good fabrication skills. So if you want to go cheaper than look into doing that. A stan's complete kit runs about $475 and Rip's stuff is a little cheaper because you cut/weld the downpipe yourself. Everything is premarked as I understand.
#11
I would NOT waste the money on 3". Save that $150 and put it towards a 4" system. Lots of people build their own with some good fabrication skills. So if you want to go cheaper than look into doing that. A stan's complete kit runs about $475 and Rip's stuff is a little cheaper because you cut/weld the downpipe yourself. Everything is premarked as I understand.
I am pretty good at fabrication so I guess I can get a box full of 4" 45's and 90's.
Making a downpipe would be challenging.
Do You Have a link for RIP'S ??
Thanks for the info
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