1st Gen. Ram - All Topics Discussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.

Need your help bad

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Old 03-08-2013, 11:26 AM
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Need your help bad

Hello Thanks in advance for any help. MY truck is my only transportation. It has been down for a week. I'm trying to fix it myself. Sight unseen some mechanic shops say transmission,others say differential. I have a 1992 D250 diesel, 2w,158000mi.,automatic, dana 70,3.54, limited slip.Great truck until now. Had a intermittent clunk that got worse. Now it's making a chattering gravely noise and barely moving. Got it home and pulled the rear axles, checked the shoes. u-joints. They all look fine. With the rear axle off the ground I put in reverse, rear wheels turn, in NEUTRAL rear wheels turn, in drive rear wheels turn. Put a stethoscope to differential loud grinding noise, lesser noise at the tranny pan.

Trying to diagnose and only fix what's broke.
Thank You very much.
Old 03-08-2013, 12:14 PM
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Pull the diff cover and take a look.
Old 03-08-2013, 12:19 PM
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Its normal for a little tire movement in neutral. Pull the diff cover. Sounds like that's your problem
Old 03-08-2013, 12:42 PM
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Thanks
Old 03-08-2013, 06:23 PM
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Most of the time a diff problem can go unseen in neutral or even on jack stands with what is most of the time a broken gear on the pinion. its usually as your under a load the pinion actually tries to climb the ring gear (bare with me its just how it works) and it will cause the binding and pressure which causes the noise and the harmonics to make their way up your driveshaft to your tranny then your engine which is why a lot of time they can be slightly hard to pinpoint. I bet if you pull your cover on your diff you will fine a gear or two from your pinion laying in there or ground up into pretty metal flakes.
Old 03-09-2013, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by later
If it was me, I would check the transmission. The rear end is very strong but can fail, if it is the rear end you can get one from John it will be about 300 dollars plus shipping try to get one that that will just drop in changing the spring mounts can be a bit of a challenge unless you have done it before. If it is the Transmission talk to John again for a junk yard replacement or get a good one. Just judging from what you have said it could be the pinion bearing and if it is going clunk that can be bad.

Originally Posted by tommu
A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
The truck is on stands under the axle. The noise is slight with a stethoscope pressed against auto. tranny. Noise is much louder with stethoscope pressed at the differential.
WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING, IN REVERSE THE REAR WHEELS TURN REVERSE, IN NEUTRAL THEY TURN FORWARD,IN DRIVE THEY TURN FORWARD.
There is a old transmission shop guy that has not seen the truck, but he feels it's the tranny. Wants me to wrecker it to his shop, says the differentials are very strong.
I want to fix either the tranny or the rear axle ONLY.
Old post:I have a 92, 2w, d250,automatic. The rear end 9 (dana 70, 3.54 ratio. posi.)was clunking AND GOT WORSE AND IS NOW GRINDING BAD AND THE TRUCK BARELY MOVES. I found a 2001 2w, dana, 3.54, posi.,axle disc. with drum e brake axle to replace it.
Will it fit if I cut off the shock mount brackets and use my old u bolt plate for the shock mount (the 92 axle is 42", the 2001 is 43" where the springs mount)?
Will the drive shaft spline match?
Will I have to shorten the drive shaft?
Will I need different rims (17") to accept the new style hubs?
Are the stud and lug nut the same (thread pitch)?
Any other problems or fabrication you can think of?
Thank You
Weighing my options. Pulled the cover plate, found metal shavings.
Houston Ring and pinion will rebuild for $1250,I pull and reinstall.
Cheapest used is a 91, no brakes $400, I pull, install my brakes, reinstall.
I've busted plenty of knuckles in my time, but I am probably not physical able to do this heavy work alone in my driveway -not crying-just facts.
A guy with a 2001 3.54 single wheel axle is 30mi. away. He's a diesel gearhead type, sounds like he knows a lot. But he bought this 2001 to fit his 92 D250 dually (it won't work), says he bought a Ford 350 dually axle (it won't work). Needs to sell them to buy a $1500 dually axle that will work. He wants disc bad. Bottom line his brother has put a 2001 axle on a 92, gotta grind the perches to fit 92 u bolts, remove 2001 shock brackets. Says the total distance is 72" wheel mount to wheel mount. Says he'll deliver, remove mine, install 2001 (brakes,bleed, and all) for $700. Sounds real good.
He sent pics, the perches look approx. 8" from the drum plate, my perches start 3 1/2" from drum plate.
If I do this axle I'll want to my old rims and run standard LT 235/85R16s.
Not trying to knock anyone,this guy DEFINITELY knows more than I do. Don't want a blood letting if it won't work. Your thoughts please.
Thomas

Last edited by tommu; 03-09-2013 at 04:45 PM. Reason: BRAKES
Old 03-09-2013, 05:26 PM
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It sound's a Little wider but will work there both same bolt pattern
Old 03-09-2013, 05:32 PM
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Not sure of the width or perch width ect, I don't know. I do know the 92 wheel stud are larger diameter than the newer trucks. I "think" 9/16" vs 1/2" or 9/16 vs 5/8". Check before you jump in. It might save you from having to buy wheels. Good luck! Hope you the best!
Old 03-10-2013, 07:04 PM
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What is the condition of the ring and pinion.. before you go out and spend a ton of money on parts you might not need... could be just the carrier bearings..
Old 05-06-2013, 06:23 AM
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What did you ever find out? The rear end in my 90 d250 has started this same routine ...thinking about pulling the cover tonight...what does it cost to rebuild a Dana 70?
Old 05-06-2013, 12:58 PM
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Fixed rear end

Thanks to all for the advise.
Pull the cover,catch the fluid with a rag covered pan,rake out bottom of diff. housing, look at magnet on inside of cover, see how much shavings grit.
mine was full of grit from never changing rear grease and adding friction modifier. The clutches had worn out. Examine the ring and pinion teeth.
Complete rear end rebuild (ring and pinion, limited slip clutches, etc.) $1250. I was lucky my ring and pinion were fine, as were the axle bearings. So I pulled the axles, removed the carrier (ring and pinion assembly- be sure to mark the right and left bearing caps - put them back the same way). Houston axle shop rebuilt the clutches for $450 + grease and modifier=$500. I reinstalled, added 2+1/4 qt. grease, two 4 oz. bottles of friction modifier. It sounds brand new. Lot of work though. SAFETY Be sure to crib up the frame very well with RR ties or whatever. Good luck.
Old 05-06-2013, 01:56 PM
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I guess I got lucky by spending my spare time here, reading through other's problems, and eliminating them before they happen


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