All of the instructions are right here, I even have pictures.
Jim

Click here. CLICK CLICK
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=153154

 

Ok guys, the top part of the pump is laying on my bench. I was able to squirt some WD-40 on both sides of the pin. I pushed the pin back and forth where is sits several times. The pin slides back and forth just fine. At this point, is it really neccessary to pull the entire pin out? It moves like it should, but i'm still baffled why it was so hung up on the pickup before? I cannot see anything that would prevent it from moving. The pin is nice and shiny at both ends. Should I just put the 3200 spring on and put it back together? The pin never leaked fuel into the AFR housing before. I'm thinking that after putting it back together the pin might actually work again. Any thoughts?

 

When I took mine apart the ends of the pin that you could see were clean and shiny also but the part you cannot see had a thick film on it like you would see on old carburetors. I took it out and lightly polished it after cleaning it with acetone.
When you reinstall the pin into the bore, liberally coat it using STP. This was recommended by my local Authorized Bosch repair shop.
I would replace the o-rings now since it is already apart, I would do both the pin and the throttle shaft.

Murphy Law, as soon as you put it back together it will start leaking next week on Sunday night.
Jim

 

That's Murphy's Law of Thermodynamics: "Things get worse under pressure."

 

I just got off the phone with my local diesel injection repair shop. The guy on the phone told me that the pin does does not neccesarly move when the throttle is moved. He said that it is moved by boost pressure while the engine is running.......... now I'm confused!! Some people say yes, others say no. Which is it? From the sounds of it, I should just go the full distance and pull the pin completely out. Right now I'm just having problems getting the ball-bearings out. I have 2 questions that have been fogging my mind:

What is this STP stuff and where can I buy it?
What o-rings/gaskets (if any besides the pin) do I need that involves this project?

My local diesel injection repair shop told me you cannot buy the individual o-rings/gaskets. You must buy the entire VE pump rebuild kit. True?

Day three of this mess and counting.........

 

Finally knocked out the ball bearings and got the pin out. The pin looks very clean (entire length). I did not see any varnish/gummy stuff on it. Shiny and clean on the whole pin. At this point, it's time for an O-ring and reassembly. I really hope this fixes my "low power" problem.

 

There are part numbers for the individual seals, but your dealer probably chooses not to stock them.

 

Wannadiesel,

Thanks for all your help. I am really new to understanding diesel injection pumps in general. I have been carefully analyzing everyone's suggestions and comments. I honestly want to understand how the VE pump works, but also make sure i'm assembling it correctly and not forgetting anything. I ordered my 3200 spring this morning..........every diesel injection shop I have called and spoke with seems to not understand what the 3200 spring is for. Most often they discourage any customer from deviating from factory specs. I had to sail through the BS on the phone and simply ask to order the spring, no questions asked. The diesel injection shop I bought my spring from suggested that "oversize" ball bearings must be used in place of the ones I took out. Any truth to this? Thanks for everyone's help on this thread......I just want to do things right the first time!

 

Not a bad idea, but most guys just use JB weld over the old ones.

 

He was talking about the fuel pin under the diaphram not the pin you are working on. The guy at the pump shop more than likely only knows how to rebuild, not how the pump will react to the spring. Just buy the entire kit, usually only about $20.00 or so and it will have all the future gaskets and orings you may need. STP is an oil additive available at any parts store.

 

The people who rebuild the pumps do not want you to fix your pump for a few dollars when they can sell you a rebuilt for $500.00.

Bosch is real tight with any of their secrets; I am still trying to get a copy of the shop manual.

Everything does come in the rebuild kit but when I had the first leak with the control valve I went to my local Bosch shop and ask some questions and after a few minuets and I guess he felt comfortable that I knew what I was talking about, the technician went into the shop came from the back with a hand full of o-rings and gave them to me.

He even took me back and showed me the pump stand and how they are calibrated which was very interesting.

A good thing to do would be to go to print out the parts list in my article and take it with you when you go the shop they will think you know what you are doing.

The specifications on this o-ring are: 4mm ID X 7mm OD X 1.5mm cross section and they claim it is made on Nitrile.

You should be able to get it at any decent hydraulics shop or bearing supplier.

You should not have to use oversize ball bearings if you push them out with a drift punch, I think the oversized ones would be larger and the bore might have to be enlarged but I could be wrong,

The shop told me that if I wanted to I should use a dab of quick epoxy in the bore for the ball, there is no fuel at that level so there will not be a leak.

Also when you install the o-ring for the pin and you are tightening the retainer, do not over tighten it, you will bind up the pin and it will not move freely, loosen it up a bit to release it.

STP is the oil treatment you can get anywhere even Wal Mart it is the slippery stuff that Andy Granatelli used to advertise back in the early 70’s.

Everything is in the sticky.
Jim

 

Geez!!! I need a beer..................I put everything back together and the stupid pin still will not come out when I actuate the throttle lever!!!!! I took off the little pipe plug that's behind the pin (the one you remove to drop the pin out) and actuated the throttle while using a mirror. I noticed the arm was not moving toward the pin at all........instead you can hear a small clicking sound coming from under the top pump cover when I actuate the throttle lever. Ok, what does that pin arm connect to under the cover???? It's not even trying to push the pin! I'm going on a full week of my pickup being down............this is getting old, quick.

 

it should only come out when you turn the motor over, it is pushed out by the govenor. It has slight pressure on it when running and will only be alowed out as the fuel pin is pushed down by boost letting it give more fuel. Try starting it up and see if it works, Have the intake hose off so you can put a bord over the turbo intake incase it will not shut off.

 

The governor lever pushes on the AFC lever, which pushes on the pin.

Are you sure you have the throttle shaft indexed properly?

The engine does NOT need to be running for the pin to pop out. If you try it with the engine running you are likely to have the pin pop out followed by a gusher of fuel. Then you get to try to work the pin back in the hole without having to take the pump top off again. Not recommended for weekend recreation.

 

Is it possible you installed the lever backwards?
Jim