Ok, my truck has not ran correctly since yesterday afternoon. Symptoms are sluggish excelleration and no power under a load. Driving up a noticable grade, the pickup will quickly bog down and will only climb @ 30mph. I can put the pedal to the floor and nothing will happen. At this point the pickup is unsafe for highway/freeway driving. The only thing previously touched before this problem occured was the fuel pin/diaphram and "star wheel". I recently took the anaroid valve back apart and discovered that the small pin that rides on the larger fuel pin does not come out when you actuate the throttle linkage. I'm guessing a stuck pin is causing this? Any help would be highly appreciated.

 

Sounds like the pin is stuck or bent. Try a little wd40 on it and work it in and out. If you can't free it then it's pump repair time.

 

Yep. Try a variety of penetrating oils. Worst case is you'll have to pull the pump top to get at the backside of the pin to free it up. Buy a 3200 RPM spring.

 

Ok, so far I have tried to use a scribe to move the pin........no go. I then used some WD-40 and the pin still will not move. I guess I will keep using different penetrating oils on it. If I have to go deeper into the pump to reach the pin........how hard is it for a first timer? I have no idea what I'm doing and I wish that I had access to a manual that covers a 89-93 VE pump. I have heard of the 3200 spring.........I'm just wondering if it would create problems on my stock auto tranny. Thanks!

 

Probably help getting things moving considering the stock converter are known to be loose, a few extra hundred RPM won't hurt things.

 

How exactly do I get to the stuck pin from the back side of the top pump housing? Would it be worth it to take some needle nose pliers and try to pull gently on the stuck pin before I attemp to take the top housing off?

 

I tried all of the picking, probing and squirting tricks before I pulled it apart and did it right.
It is a real easy fix once you get the top off, Like they said, now is the time to get the 3200 spring installed and get the fuel turned up when it is going back together.
It will make the truck come alive.
You will wonder how you have lived without it.
Jim

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=153154

I'm just wondering if it would create problems on my stock auto tranny.

The only problems you might have is the inability to get the smile off from your face from the added drivability and performance.

 

Jim, your link dont work.....

FirstGen, some time back I posted a link to a shop manual PDF file for teh pump, try a search..

 

Thanks, It should work now.
Jim

What are you doing up at this hour?

 

They changed my hours ..again........ 12-0800 till further notice....

 

here it is:

http://www.usdieselparts.com/pdf/dpe30125.pdf

 

Well, I was able to get everything down to the last hex-head screw on the far back side of the pump top. I believe this is the low-idle screw side. I am kinda baffled at how you move this idle screw in order to make room to pull the last hex-head bolt that holds down the top pump? I saw a thread on using jam-nuts....but i'm not sure how to do this. If I can get access to this last bolt, the whole top pump will come off. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

 

Steal the jam nuts off the high speed limiter screw and put them on the forward end of the idle screw (double nutted so they are locked). Then just run it towards the front until the allen head bolt is accessible.

 

Here is what I did, after I got the screw out I used my Dremel and cut a slot in the end, now I can adjust the idle with a small screwdriver.

When you get to the point of removing the top study the pictures be careful and take your time.

When you reassemble the top pay attention to how the control lever is indexed on the shaft.

Jim

 

Ok, I got the top of the pump finally off! I immediately put a plastic sandwich bag over the exposed pump. When I popped the top end off, I heard a "click" sound.....almost like a lever moved or something? I took the pipe-plug looking fitting off behind the pin. I saw a armature looking level and pushed it gently. I noticed that this pushed the pin out toward where the fuel pin would be. It seemed quite sticky and did not slide easy. My current problem is removing the ball bearings that holds the shaft that the lever pivots on. What's the best way to remove these ball bearings? I'm happy that i'm getting closer to repairing the stuck pin. I will be putting in the 3200 spring while I have it apart.