CowRazy

Well, my running lights quit , and thanks to this forum, I knew where to look...Headlight Switch!

Upon inspection, the harness plug looked OK; the switch had some melting at the B2 lugs and I noticed what looked to be arcing at the B1 lug.

I have cattle to water/horses to feed during the day, so I was OK until early evening. I still had headlight, stoplights, and signals, so I was OK for a little darkness (but not to town).

Went to the local boneyard and got a switch out of a late 90's neon. (They also have this switch in Voyagers & Cherokees!)

Well, the switch is in, but I still don't know what caused it to melt. I was thinking of disconnecting the running lights until I found the cause of the meltdown. Is this a good idea? What wires to disconnect? Where?

Thanks in advance, I learned alot from you all!

funcruise

Yes the dredded headlight switch meltdown...You mentioned the running lights. How many do you have on your truck? As you now know the switches wont handle too many. The best way is to find the circuit [wire] that carries those extra lights and put a relay in to control them which takes the amperage load off the switch. Its not a hard job, just have to poke around a bit. They sell relays at NAPA and even radio shack.....If not, go to the wreckers , get another switch and throw it in the glove box for a spare. That way if you have a spare then the switch probably wont ever burn out again...........

alborada

Sounds like a good time to put in some headlamp relays. I am going to do mine when I get some more free time. Relays will get the bulk of the juice off of the switch, preventing further meltdowns.

rconrad16

I relayed my lights WOW what a difference and no need to buy any more switches Its a must and cheap upgrade

BearKiller

If the switch is the same as the Cherokee switches, it is no wonder they burn up.

I have rebuilt the switch in our old Cherokee twice.

I lay most of the blame on that silly porcelain heater-coil dash-light dimmer business.

Also, 95% of trailer light plugs are simply tapped into a tail-light wire, thereby forcing the headlight switch to carry 100% of the load.

I never, ever, hook trailer lights to any portion of the factory wiring, not even with relays.

Trailer lights should always be on a dedicated circuit and switch all their own, completely independent of any existing wiring in the truck.

Number ten wire from a dedicated HOT source, through a minimum forty-amp breaker, through a big 75-amp toggle-switch, through the TM prong of the trailer plug, and on to the trailer-lights.

Also, those wimpy trailer-tow packages are barely sufficient for a poorly lit boat-trailer, and definitely not enough to carry a big gooseneck's worth of lighting.

KRB

Yur talking running lights right? The tail & stop still need to come off the tail lights though right?

BearKiller

I am talking tail-lights and markers.

Any light that stays on all the time the trailer lights are on.

In a perfect set-up, brake-lights and turn signals should be triggered by relays, thereby keeping the extra draw away from the truck switches; but, most times, brakes and signals are only lit intermittently, for very brief periods, and there are way fewer of them, than markers.

BUT, all tail-lights and markers should be on a seperate dedicated circuit, having nothing whatsoever in common with the truck system, except ground and battery HOT.

CowRazy

Tested the switch I installed, this time the running lights work and the headlights don't .

Probably in the same amount of time as adding a switch, I could add relays and a toggle switch, which I'll do tomorrow.

Who has the best NEW switch? AutoZone, NAPA,...do they all sell the same switch?

My Dodge is for a working ranch, and now I have to get home before dark,...although the missus likes me being home pretty regular.

jrmcleod78

I'm Running the Bosch h4 setup with the 80/100 bulbs.When I installed the relays I'm sure I got another 25% brighter, The problem now is the lights are so hot that they keep melting the plug to the bulb. I'm going to go back to the stock 55/60 bulb the next time I have to replace the plugs. If I need more light I'll just wire up some auxilarys and have them on a relay that turns them off/on with my brights.

BearKiller

I did the relay trick to both the trucks in my sig.

It is amazing how much better/farther we see at night.

Just a couple days ago, one of my mis-matched halogen sealed beams lost the bright side.

I don't know if it was the fact of it being probably fifteen years, or more, old, or the increased voltage of the new relay system, or a combination of both.

I went to Advance and looked at what they had on hand.

Plain Jane Sylvania Halogen bulbs were $7 each.

Sylvania 6054ST Silver Stars were $20 each.

I could have, and almost did, buy just one $7 bulb and replace the bad one; BUT, I broke down and got a $40 pair of the SilverStars.

I turned the brights on, after replacing only the one bad bulb, and there was no comparison.

I couldn't hardly tell that the other old bulb was even lit, it was so dim.

I am anxious to go somewhere, on the open road, in the pitch black dark, just to try my new lights.

Around here, way back in the sticks, these rednecks keep the roads hot all hours, so the Brights hardly ever get clicked on.

It is just one continous string of headlights, all night long, even on the side roads.

$3/gallon gas don't keep these rednecks at the house.

kiszka6911

If your truck is a dually with all the addtional fender and tail gait lights while at napa go to thier lighting section, they carry trucklite LED replacements for all the fender and tailgate lights. You are actually buying a socket and light but they just snap on. This was the cheapest way I could put LED on my truck.

Then if you really want to unload the headlight switch get some 194 bulb led replacements and change out the cab clearance lights. Do the same for your trailers if possible. About 10 LED's equal one 194 bulb.

Then get your relays, you need three, one for running, two for headlights brights and dims. I bought a painless wiring harness which made the headlights truly pulg and play. Since you have real work to do and can't wait you will need to cut and splice some wires.

Good luck.

CowRazy

Well, I finished my headlight rewiring Friday evening. I only had time for headlights and not running lights. I do have a dually, so I just unplugged the rear fender lights and tailgate lights to lessen the load ('cept the cab lights, I like cab lights). Ran fine all weekend.

I kept the factory wiring intact, I ran new separate circuits for the headlights, including new headlight plugs, protected by a 30 amp fuse. I had read a post where a guy used his factory wiring to trigger the relays. This is what I want to do as soon as I can get a new switch. I will also add relays for the trailer wiring as well.

LED's are desirable, but mucho $$$, for me anyways. Maybe I'll add them to the trailer since there's more running lights on it (a 24footer).

Now I have another problem, but it needs a new post.

Thanks, All!

ChevellePull

Do you have apart number of the painless kit? How much did it run you? Thanks...Jake