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My 727 lost some parts.

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Old Apr 13, 2011 | 09:48 PM
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From: NE Iowa
My 727 lost some parts.

I found them in the pan. Just a spring and a ball bearing (no chunks), but I guess that's enough reason to pull it.
It started slipping under load going uphill, but it was fine on the flats. (Good thing I'm in Iowa.) I got it home, dropped the pan, spread the floor dry... and then called around for an OD. I was planning on the swap eventually -even had a line on a 618- but not this quick. I haven't gathered all the parts Mike says I need, per his thread in the sticky, either. So here I am, my long truck half in-and-out of my short garage, wondering about my chances of scoring that tranny and finding all the parts in a hurry.
So while I was at work today, my wife called around to some yards and (surprise) found a 518 out of a 92. I know it's a non lockup, but I think I'm going to get it anyway. If I'm going to spend money, it might as well be on something proactive. Fuel is not getting cheaper! And I need my truck.
So what can I do to improve this thing while it's on my bench? And will it bolt up in place of my 727?
Thanks!
Chewie
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 12:03 AM
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The 92 518 Tranny is from a diesel? If it is then it's the same bellhousing as your 727, so bolt up will be fine. You should invest in a good torque convert though, they were the weak point in the original set-ups, from what I've garnered.

Might need a switch for the OD to work right, manual or something fancy to work off the throttle?
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by thrashingcows
The 92 518 Tranny is from a diesel? If it is then it's the same bellhousing as your 727, so bolt up will be fine. You should invest in a good torque convert though, they were the weak point in the original set-ups, from what I've garnered.

Might need a switch for the OD to work right, manual or something fancy to work off the throttle?

Use a toggle switch & a pressure switch set to kick it in about 40 mph.
This way it will work automatically, but you can still disable it if needed.
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 03:52 PM
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From: NE Iowa
Can I use my crossmember, or should I grab the other one? The yard is 100 miles from my house, so I need to grab all I can. What about the yoke?
Trans shop said they could look the 518 over, clean it up and put in a shift kit for about $300. And he said an RV converter would be an improvement over stock. I'm not racing this thing, or pulling a sled, but eventually, motor and trans are going to end up in my crew cab as the family wagon and camper/boat hauler. RV going to enough?
Sorry about all the questions. This is my first try at an automatic.
Thanks.
Chewie
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 05:03 PM
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just get a Goerend bros torque converter. I wouldn't waste any money on a no name "RV" converter.
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 05:10 PM
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From: Dixon, IL
Gorend Bros, Suncoast, and Spec-rite make good converters with different level for different needs, with prices adjusted accordingly.

FWIW, BC847 has a Suncoast, JQMile has a Gorend iirc, and Cole Dow (rockjeep) had a Spec-Rite in his old A518. All have ran around 12-13's on these converters.
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 06:36 PM
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From: Palmyra, Nebraska
Originally Posted by mrchewie
I found them in the pan. Just a spring and a ball bearing (no chunks), but I guess that's enough reason to pull it.
That sounds to me like the shift detent spring and ball.
This isn't the first diesel 727 I have seen this on and the cause is that the hole, where the shift selector passes through the valvebody, wears then becomes sloppy.
This also affects the positioning of shift lever in relation to the valvebody and can cause the trans to slip because the detents are no longer there.

This is a good example of why you SHOULD put a truck in nuetral, set the parking brake, THEN put it in park.
It relieves the tension on that lever assembly and decreases wear to the valvebody.

Mark.
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 08:57 PM
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From: Oklahoma
Mark, i'v been settin my emergy. brk., then into park just to keep the trans., from taking the load when i fire up and pull into gear, especially on a incline.I think you gave good advice. thanks.
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Old Apr 16, 2011 | 10:24 PM
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From: NE Iowa
Originally Posted by dieselJon
Gorend Bros, Suncoast, and Spec-rite make good converters with different level for different needs, with prices adjusted accordingly.

FWIW, BC847 has a Suncoast, JQMile has a Gorend iirc, and Cole Dow (rockjeep) had a Spec-Rite in his old A518. All have ran around 12-13's on these converters.
I assume you are talking about a drag strip? Something I have no desire to do at all... All I want is something a little better than stock. This thing will haul a camper and maybe a boat when I put it in the Crewcab, and until then is just my DD. My questions were green, as I've never messed with an automatic before. I work for a green tractor company where I turn raw steel into manual transmission parts. That's what I know, and if my wife would just learn to shift, I'd toss this 727 off a cliff and find an FSO.
But I can't do that. So I bought the 518 and now it's sitting in my short garage until I can sort out the converter possibilities or find a tranny jack, whichever comes first. I may just install it without doing anything to it. I do need the truck...
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Old Apr 17, 2011 | 09:20 AM
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From: Dixon, IL
Yes I was. I am saying those converters are consistent, reliable, and strong.
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Old Apr 17, 2011 | 12:54 PM
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From: Buies Creek, NC
Originally Posted by Mark Nixon
That sounds to me like the shift detent spring and ball.
This isn't the first diesel 727 I have seen this on and the cause is that the hole, where the shift selector passes through the valvebody, wears then becomes sloppy.
This also affects the positioning of shift lever in relation to the valvebody and can cause the trans to slip because the detents are no longer there.
A loose Rooster-Comb on the shifter-shaft will allow the ball to pop out of place as well. Been there, fixed that.
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