I have a 727 in my truck and I don't want to mess around with a complete swap so I was wondering what sort of mods are available for it and what kind of power i can safely hold with those mods? Who sells um and bout how much? Thanks all.

 

One stop shopping for any torquflite trans. http://www.transmissioncenter.net/dodge.htm

My dad had the red eagle clutches and stuff in our 440 big block motor home. the big block was putting out somwhere like 500 ftlbs to the rear wheels. (big cam,carb,ported heads) .....it was a tire squelin motor home.

the 727 is a very strong trans, they are literally bulletproof with a manual valve body according to every mopar drag racer in the area.

Get the best converter you can get from like DTT, or goerend, and get the red eagle clutches,upgrade bands, and a shift kit and i bet you got a trans thats good to a500Hp/1000tq... if you can bare it, run a reverse manual valve body if you like shifting and at that point its the best choice for a 727 from what i hear...they like the manual valve body, really beefs them up.

reverse valve body you'd have to mount a floor shift, PRN12D would be the new order.. a regular man. valve body you could use the column shift but that would probably get old.

The 727 is the TH400GM of chrysler basicly... go on like www.godragracing.com and ask how to make a 727 torque proof and they'll let you know... lol

People say the 518 is a 727 with o/d... well it is but the O/D unit IS the weak point. a 727/3.07 truck with a built converter is not all that bad at 65mph, not nearly as bad as with a stock converter.

 

Also, I believe another weak point of th e727 is the alumimum planetaries, buy some steel for like $250-300 and your good to go.

You always have the choice of getting your shafts hardened for strenght, noone makes billet of course for 727's but PATC may sell the hardened 727 input.

 

How exactly does a man valve body work, does that mean I got to shift it on the tree? what is better abut a reverse man. valvebody? Thanks for all the help. Just like my truck, transmissions are my weak point.

 

The planetaries start going at higher hp levels, so get a steel one, a good shift kit, a good converter, and clutches, and you should be fine to 500+rwhp. It all depends how much money you want to spend. Believe it or not, the Hushpower Monster truck has an all billet 727 that's holding behind 800+ hp on 66 inch tires! So they can be made to handle just about anything.

 

I really like my transmission and I would rather have a bullet proof 3 speed than a overdrive that i have to worry about on a hard pull or heavy load. I am not really good at choosing out the parts to build it strong across the board so if someone could take the time to go through that website and list the parts i would need to way OVER-build it would be awesome. Money is not an issue right now because if I can get a complete list than I can just buy all of the parts piece by piece. I just want to never have to worry about my transmission ever again even if I p-pump it later and go to extreme power lvls. I would greatly appreciate some in-depth help on this topic.

 

RamRod, the manual valve body means its no longer an automatic, it'll downshift automaticly in most valve bodies but you have to upshift it, so yes youd shift it on the tree, unless you get a floor shifter, then its fun. the manual valve body suposedly strengthens the trans, dont know how

the reverse manual valve body means your going AWAY from park/reverse/neutral when upshifting, so on the column, 3rd gear would be where 1st is now, 2nd would be where 2nd gear is now, and 1st gear would be right below Neutral.

PRN12D would be the new pattern with a reverse valve body, easiet to work on a floor shifter having to pull back besides pushing forward to upshift going toward neutra/reverse

 

where abouts would you get a reverse manual valve body? this would be the closest thing to a standard. (which i want). and how hard is it to rebuild a 727? That would reduce cost alot if i do it myself, but i'm hesitant about doing it.

 

www.tciauto.com

or B&m

 

i dragrace my 82. i took the detent block under the steering wheel out and ground the notch out for second gear. this way one can start out in d position then bump gear shift down to sec. without over shooting sec. then one lifts lever and pulls it down for third.

 

Cheetah made the only good one for many years. I have used them in hot street cars for years. If you use your truck as a truck, you will tire of it VERY quickly. You have to MANUALLY shift every gear, and the shift is VERY quick, like BANG! (read that as broken parts) I would not recommend a manual valve body for anything other than a toy, and certainly not for something this heavy. That is just my opinion.
Now, a Torqueflite is a very robust Transmission. They used them in Fuel cars for a long time, eventually putting a Clutch in place of the Converter. (Clutchflite). God, I am getting old! If you have a trans that is not blown up, they are not difficult to do. If you have burned up parts, find out WHY! You will need an Inch pound torque wrench, and you can make a front pump puller (like a little slide hammer)and a GOOD set of snap ring pliers. The Tools are an investment! I have manual press for the clutch packs, but you CAN do them with a big C clamp and some Ingenuity.

Get a CHRYSLER service manual, a GOOD rebuild kit, a FULL kit. PUT AWAY the BEER and take your time. EVERYONE that rebuilds Transmissions had to do a first one. Mine was out of necessity (low bucks!) and I was just a Kid. I learned at an early age to not be afraid of tackling things.

There are good parts out there, Billet shafts, planetaries, drums that we never even dreamed of when I was racing. We just used the Hemi, or Truck parts (clutch packs with more discs and planateries that had more gears) and they worked fine. (mostly!) Today, you can reap all of that knowledge in books and here. If you have a Truck transmission to start with, I would not be afraid of using that as a base. They will handle a lot of power.
We kill these things with Torque more than anything else!



Get a good Converter too, money well spent!

 

Well hello again! I did the same thing to all my Column shifted cars!
Now, my really cool cars were all "Typewriter" drive!
Just curious, ever explode a front drum? I did once, after I broke a drive shaft. Ruined a real pretty 65 Coronet sedan A990 clone. (they were cheap then) Learned about the overrunning clutch the hard way! But I still have my feet !

 

never blew a drum. still have the max-wedge i started with. ran some 11.50s back in the 60s. long story but lost the 426 block. put the car back together in 92 with 440 and max-wedge heads and intake. blew the "kids" mind at the local strip. ran some 7.40s 1/8 mi. rite of the trailer. most of them had never seen or heard of an engine like that

 

Thats funny.. And I thought I was getting old talking about ClutchFlites.After coming to realize that CF's and manual VB's do not belong on our trucks. Hate to say, I'll stay with a stick..

 

seems to be what most say. funny thing though this old man has over 250k on 4 different vehicles one of them is my 82 1/2 ton. i have had absolutely no problems with them. oh and i still have all of them in my possession. i did build one clutch-flite in the late 60s. it was really FUN cutting the bellhousing off without the proper tools. trans did live through one summer of racing then the guy sold it.