cougar

Just thought I'd give you guys some details on the swap.
The transmission I used was from a 95 V10 which caused problems of its own. You will have to replace the entire governor and not just the weights, the housings are different. You will also have to recalibrate the valve body, aka replace the springs which will come in the shift kit anyway. Other than that, any other differences in the transmission will not affect its intended function.
What I am going to list here are the parts and/or modifications I had to. You may decide to do different or run into different conditions, but I thought it important information.
2nd gen engine to transmission adapter plate. Necessary because of the added length of the lock up torque converter. EVERYTHING IS MOVED BACK!!! Remember this! It will be the cause of your unexplained premature aging!
2nd gen starter and flex plate. They all seem to be the same so there shouldn’t be a problem finding one. I didn’t have to grind or bend the frame on mine, but others have. There was plenty of clearance for it. I do recommend overhauling the starter though while you have it out.
Transmission support plate. Because the transmission has been moved back, you will need to move the mount holes back by the same amount. Now most have opted to weld an extension onto the existing plate and re-drill, I opted to make a new extended plate. Less of a possibility for failure in my opinion.
Drive shafts. I had to shorten the rear and lengthen the front. My rear being a 2 piece, the front section was shortened to realign with the bearing mount holes on the cross frame.
Shift linkage. You will have to transfer your 727 or A518 shift lever onto the 47RH. I highly recommend repositioning the shift linkage bracket on the frame aft to straighten out the alignment of the jack shaft. There is the possibility the shaft may bind or fall out.
Transfer case shift lever. Remember what I said about premature aging? Well, this has turned out to be an interesting problem to solve. Not only was the lever moved back by the adapter plate, it was also moved back because of the different location of the bolt pattern on the side of the 47RH transmission. As a result, I can’t shift into 4lo. So, I will have to modify or make an adapter for the shift lever bracket to get it re-centered in the floor pan hole and then lengthen the push/pull rod accordingly.
OD TC control. 3 pin connector required. Your choice on control method. I opted to go with the HGM Compushift Mini standalone over simple manual switches. The reason being it had to be hands off for the wife to drive.
Skid plate. Like everything else it will have to be moved back too. I will probably weld some tabs on the skid plate and re-drill.
I wish I could give you some specific dimensions, but there seems to be some variations between what I measured and what others that have done this swap reported. I suggest measuring in place and don’t guess.
This is not the easiest swap I’ve done, but given the results I’d say it was worth it.

kevin93

I didn't have any issue with the transfer case shifter, so I'm surprised that you did.

I went looking up front band torque adjustment settings and it seemed like there were some differences between '94 and '95, and since I didn't know which year my 47RH was from, I had to sort of guess...but maybe there's some differences in the case as well, at least the exterior, and that's why your shifter bracket is in a different spot?

Other than that...yes, you're right. Never knew what lockup was like until I did my swap...and I'm glad I did it. Just wish I'd done it right the first time and didn't have my A518 rebuilt before I did the swap.

And for anyone else looking to do the swap, mine was done with a diesel 2WD 47RH and adding the tail housing off of my 4WD A518, since I couldn't find a 4WD 47RH to rebuild. So that might be another option for anyone looking to do the swap.

cougar

I had the opportunity to do the swap a few years back. Had all the basic stuff ready to go, but got talked out of doing it by someone claiming to be an expert. He said it was way to hard. Should have ignored him. Sold all the stuff to a guy up North of me, he is still driving it around.
I took measurements of my old transmission and the mount holes for the shift bracket are in a different location. Also, I had to use spacers behind the bracket to clear a protrusion on the case that the 518 didn't have. May be a V10 thing, don't know.
There has been some conversations about the OD units, which is better. 6 of 1, half dozen of the other. Use what you got.

deere country

Kevin the reason you didn't have to modify your t-case shift linkage is because you used the a518 overdrive section. The overdrive section is where the t-case shift linkage attaches to.

kevin93

Come to think of it...you're right! That's probably one of few things I didn't do wrong the first time on that truck.

I have about 3 washers stacked between the bracket and the case on mine too...the shifter bracket is kind a shaped to the case, but there's parts that stick out that interfere with it. Not sure what the engineers were thinking there.

cougar

There where some ribs added above the rear servo that aren't on the 518. That is why you have to shim the bracket. Interestingly though, I drilled a hole through my bracket a few years back so I could tap into the governor pressure port on the 518. That hole still lines up on the 47RH.

deere country

The 93 model a518 have the ribbing their just like the 47rh trans does. Not sure if all 93 models have it but I have seen it on most of them.

I am sure today not all 93s will have it if they had an exchange replacement trans at sometime I am sure they could have received a 91 or 92 model that didn't have it.

cougar

Did some measuring so I'll add that to my report.
The 2nd gen engine to transmission adapter plate. Necessary because of the added length of the lock up torque converter, 2 5/16” vs 1 ¼”. EVERYTHING IS MOVED BACK by 1 1/16”!!! Remember this! It will be the cause of your unexplained premature aging!
Drive shafts. I had to shorten the rear and lengthen the front. My rear being a 2 piece, the front section was shortened by 1” to realign with the bearing mount holes on the cross frame. 1 1/8” would have been better. The front shaft was lengthened by 1 ¼”.
Turns out, the problem with my transfer case shift lever is some one cut the rod shorter and re welded it. I still need to move the lever forward an inch and an eighth, but I'm going to fab a new rod using 3/8" bar and a couple rod end bearings.

cougar

Just found out the 47RH won't downshift out of OD with the TC locked. Kinda sucks for towing. So, more work on the valve body is in order. I'll have him do the 2nd gear lockup mod while he's in there.

CE_TX

Can you give some feedback/opinions on this? Install? Setup? Likes/dislikes?

Thanks,

Eric

Angry Johnny

Yes this is true, all the lockup transmissions are this way, even the gas versions. This is why I wired the ground circuit for my lockup to the O/D ground circuit using a relay for the PCM ground. I didn't want to burn the driver out of the PCM so that's the reason for the relay. This way when it comes out of O/D it drops the lockup as well. You should be able to use lock up in 2nd already, not 1st though.

I control the lockup ground to the PCM relay through two adjustable Hobbs switches with a relay at the governor pressure port. This way I have a different speed to apply and release so it doesn't chatter or hunt.

cougar

Over all I like it. Easy to install, pretty much plug and start tuning. Setup was the most time consuming, but I could blame that on the conditions I was trying to do it in. Likes? Once everything is dialed in it's hands off operation. Dislikes? I wish they would have incorporated an overdrive manual override.

My transmission guy thinks he can fix the TC/OD issue by a simple valve body mod. If not, I can come up with a simple circuit that will momentarily unlock the TC when I manually turn off OD. The next thing I need to figure out is how to trick the Comp U into 2nd gear up lock up without having to do it manually.

If it where just me driving it, it would be on manual switches. Because the wife also drives it, it has to be as blond proof as possible.

cougar

The 92 is going into the shop for valve body work this week. When he gets done I should have lock up in all gears (manual select or in drive, maybe) and be able to shift out of OD without having to unlock the torque converter.

cougar

Got it back from the shop. Decided not to do 1st gear, but did the rest. All I have to do now is outsmart the Compushift to get controlled lockup in 2nd. Someone made the suggestion of bypassing the pressure switch and rely on the speed and TPS settings for lock up. Otherwise I will need to figure out how to get a switch into the governor port with the transfer case shifter in the way.

cougar

Found out the Compushift doesn't need the front servo pressure switch. So anyone who has one can ground it to bypass it and reset the parameters to get lock up in lower gears.