Muffler mount @ bellhousing- question
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Muffler mount @ bellhousing- question
Can someone help me with the part number of this thing?
I've lost the bolt/washer and don't have a clue on the length or thread. I though these were all metric... It's a bad sounding vibration- so if someone can help with the thread and approximate length it would be fantastic.
Michael
I've lost the bolt/washer and don't have a clue on the length or thread. I though these were all metric... It's a bad sounding vibration- so if someone can help with the thread and approximate length it would be fantastic.
Michael
#2
Registered User
I'm quite sure they're 3/8" UNC.
The one that holds the hanger broke on me. I made a new hanger by welding a tab onto an exhaust clamp. Used the next lower bolt. Its worked great for years now.
The one that holds the hanger broke on me. I made a new hanger by welding a tab onto an exhaust clamp. Used the next lower bolt. Its worked great for years now.
#4
Registered User
PM me your email address; I'll send you the Mopar parts catalog. It is fully illustrated and has the part number of every part on our trucks.
I find it invaluable to have a part number in hand when I'm chatting with the parts desk at my local Dodge dealer...
I find it invaluable to have a part number in hand when I'm chatting with the parts desk at my local Dodge dealer...
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NJTman (04-17-2017)
#5
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Won't use another bolt in that spot again after digging that snapped bolt out like I had to.
I used a universal hanger and clamp and mounted the down pipe elbow to my floorboard with a strengthening plate to prevent tearout.
Been good for years now.
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#8
Registered User
Also some anti-seize. I used a piece of steel strap I had laying around, drilled a 3/8" hole in one end, bent it where needed, and pipe clamped it to my 4" down pipe. I used a bunch of fender washers to take up the space with the original bolt since I didn't have a shorter one on hand. Kind of ghetto but it will work for now.
#9
Administrator
Here is how I supported my 4" Diamond Eye down pipe from the bellhousing.
The hanger from the bellhousing has a bend at the pipe like a flat j-hook that rest against the top of the pipe, the 4" clamp secures the pipe to the clamp.
The turbo flange is in a neutral position, if you remove the v-band the pipe will remain in the exact position so there is no strain on the turbo flange, all of the engine movement is through the exhaust pipe.
Jim
The hanger from the bellhousing has a bend at the pipe like a flat j-hook that rest against the top of the pipe, the 4" clamp secures the pipe to the clamp.
The turbo flange is in a neutral position, if you remove the v-band the pipe will remain in the exact position so there is no strain on the turbo flange, all of the engine movement is through the exhaust pipe.
Jim
#10
I've got the same tube wrap on the transmission cooler lines just like that, Jim, and in that exact location. Troublesome spot. I took an extra precaution, and actually took my cut off wheel, and shaved/notched off some of the corner of that support clamp bracket saddle, just to have more clearance from the cooler lines.
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