Hi all
Wondering if anyone knows how to get the bearings out of the belt tensioner roller. Mine are on there way out and I wanted to change them.

I tried smacking them out with a hammer and a punch but no go any other ideas?

is it cheaper to just get the new roller? it says dayco # 00122.

 

probably better of getting a brand new tensioner! i had one take a dump on me while hauling alot of round bales...took out the belt, which took the water pump, power steering and brakes with it while crusing 70 down the road!

brett

 

But my point is if you maintain and change the bearings in the wheel of the tensioner then it shoulden't blow up, no?

 

thats accurate, but sometimes the time spent in trying to drive the bearing out isnt worth it to me. also when i dont bring my A-game when it comes to driving them out with a hammer, i tend to do alot of damage!

brett

 

SOOOOO
I brought my A game with the hammer and.....
I broke the wheel, no surprise there, but just so you all know the pully wheel is formed around the bearings and thus they are not removeable...

 

well that made the choice a whole lot easier...but now you know! i learned something new today...im gonna call you when i need a bearing drove out!

brett

 

I found a site with just the wheel for 28 bucks, not bad really but I wish it was just a swap of the bearings instead.
Wish I had a lathe and a chunk of aluminum.......

Here's the link anyway, it is a great solution to just waiting for the thing to blow up.
Eric
http://www.plugitright.com/Page1.html

 

You may have already checked this but be aware that the problem often isn't with the idler and bearing but with wear at the spring loaded pivot point. I was going to change the bearing in my metal idler but found that the whole tensioner arm moved in and out at the spring-loaded pivot point so replacing the bearing wouldn't have helped me at all. A new tensioner assembly and I was good to go. Much of any in/out movement when you move the tensioner to loosen the belt will cause the belt to wear and run off to one side. Just something else to watch for.

 

assuming tensioner is OK and you've got 150K miles on roller.

best thing to do is replace roller assembly or... if you can pry side dust cover off of bearing. pack full of grease and tap dust cover back on.

bearing will last next to forever if kept packed full of grease. trick is to take dust cover off without destroying it.

 

I would never replace just the roller. The tensioner wears at the pivot point and causes the wheel to get cocked to the side, which makes the belt start to walk off. If the roller is dying the tensioner is not far behind.

 

I bought a new belt tensioner about a year ago and it came with a lifetime warranty, I think it was a Dayco.
On mine it was the pivot that was going out and the belt was not tracking properly.

Some things are not even worth your time to try and repair.
Unless you are McGyver and you are stranded somewhere.

Jim

 

True words of wisdom there. And they even rhyme.

 

Dig it!

 

so true.. the part about getting stranded.

to me, labor and inconvenience of being down exceeds what little you save by patching parts together.

parts have a finite wear cycle, usually denoted by miles logged.

for instance, lets say 150k miles on your CTD. your alternator goes dead. do you put new brushes and hope that takes care of it? or do you replace entire unit with a quality reman alternator?

what's it worth to you not to have to touch the alternator again for another 100k+ miles?

if your tensioner goes out... it'll nail your belt and down you go...

 

Mine went bad at the pivot like Wanna said, go buy yourself a replacement made by Goodyear, its much much better then the factory unit. If I remembe right it was only about a hundred bucks.