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Just My Luck

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Old Dec 9, 2004 | 05:21 PM
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Monty's Avatar
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From: Mustang, OK
Just My Luck

Was changing the oil in my truck today when I noticed that the oil was kind of slow coming out. So, I stuck my finger in the oil drain and felt something over the hole. I moved it away to let the oil drain and immediatly went to the crank dampner. Took a pry bar and moved the crank back and forth a good 3/8". 226,000 on the truck. So, it looks as though the POS thrust bearing has fallen out and into the oil pan. Since I only drive the truck about 5 miles a day now, hopefully it will hold off until the first of the year. Im gonna try and pull the oil pan without taking the engine out. Will be going back in with new rod and main bearings as well. Hopefully this is all the damage that it has done. I have no idea how long it has been this way since it never reared its ugly head until now.

So, if you havent checked your crank end play. Do it as soon as you can. Apparently, the earlier 12v versions had a 3 piece thrust washer. The thrust washer apparently locked into the main bearing. I have been told the newer version is a 1 piece.
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Old Dec 9, 2004 | 05:24 PM
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The question, i suppose, is can you use the newer thrust bearing?
-Jim-
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Old Dec 9, 2004 | 05:30 PM
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From: Mustang, OK
Yes, as far as I know. It is still a half round piece like normal thrust washers. However, the newer version is a solid piece made into the main bearing.
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Old Dec 9, 2004 | 05:47 PM
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Great! Something else to keep me awake at night. Thanks for the heads up, Monty.
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Old Dec 9, 2004 | 05:52 PM
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From: Tijeras, New Mexico, 7,000ft up
Oh Crap!
This is the first I have heard about this issue. I'm with you Monty!
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Old Dec 9, 2004 | 06:10 PM
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From: Mustang, OK
Im gonna run by Cummins tommorrow and get a quote on all parts needed. I sure hope the crank journal isnt messed up enough to heed replacement of the crank because im not that attached to this truck. LOL Looking at tearing it down next weekend possibly.

Anyone who has pulled the oil pan without pulling the engine on a 2wd model please chime in. I have heard that all that is needed to come off is the intake tubing. Unbolt motor mounts, #6 valve cover, fan, fan shroud and lift the engine with the front eyelet.
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Old Dec 9, 2004 | 06:22 PM
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From: Bristol Michigan
Monty, you got my right eye twitching again.... I had a couple temp anomolies the other night that I was gonna check on tomorrow.......
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Old Dec 9, 2004 | 06:35 PM
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From: Mustang, OK
Sorry for the twitch Red, hopefully yours will be just fine.
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Old Dec 9, 2004 | 11:29 PM
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From: South Western New Mexico
You can loosen the cab bolts and jack up the cab a bit for extra lifting room.
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Old Dec 10, 2004 | 01:06 AM
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Monty , I have done a few of them , just remove fan and shroud , motor mounts , and jack the engine up , drop the pan and reach in with 10 m wrench and drop the oil pick up tube into the pan and remove the pan.
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Old Dec 10, 2004 | 10:18 AM
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If you're dropping the crank out to get at the bearings, don't ly underneath!! That's a heavy piece of steel!

Sorry to hear what happened, I hope she's up and running and that the damage was minimal.
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Old Dec 10, 2004 | 04:36 PM
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No, the crank wont be coming out. Just a simple rolling in of new mains and rod bearings. Hopefully nothing else is found. I picked up the parts today. Will be tearing it down next weekend. Heckuva Christmas present eh?
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Old Dec 10, 2004 | 05:47 PM
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If all it takes is rolling in new bearings, that WILL be a Christmas present.
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Old Dec 11, 2004 | 07:57 PM
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Good luck Monty, let us know how it goes and work safe.
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Old Dec 19, 2004 | 09:03 PM
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Okay, first of all it is up and running great. Just drove 100 miles fresh off of a new set of mains and rods without any problems. I first tried to jack up the engine with a hoist to try and remove the oil pan. You can install a new oil pan gasket by just lifting the engine up and reaching in and unbolting the oil suction tube. However, the pan wouldnt come out due to the bellhousing hitting the firewall. I liked about 1" from clearing the bellhousing even with the crossmember for the tranny out and the trans lowered. I ended up having to remove the transmission and lift the engine up a considerable amount. The crank was level with the top of the grill.

To be honest, I have never seen a better looking set of rods and mains. Very minimal wear if any on mains and rods with 226k. The clutch side thrust washer is the one that came out. No crank or block damage was done. After rolling in new mains, thrust and rod bearings. The crank endplay is right in spec at about .009.
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