Installing a Potentiometer in place of the TPS
#61
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Location: Garrard county, Kentucky
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No, the 2 outer wires shouldnt matter as long as the middle one is right.
Make sure your connections are good. Does it work good with the factory TPS? The factory TPS is just a pot that is adjusted with throttle input, so if the pot is right with the right connections, you shouldnt be having problems.
Make sure your connections are good. Does it work good with the factory TPS? The factory TPS is just a pot that is adjusted with throttle input, so if the pot is right with the right connections, you shouldnt be having problems.
#62
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factory tps is junk, it juggled the lockup on me. thats the whole reason for the pot.
the middle wire from the pot goes to the middle wire on the tps. the outer wires go to the outer wires on the tps connector
the middle wire from the pot goes to the middle wire on the tps. the outer wires go to the outer wires on the tps connector
#64
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It will kick it in and out depending on your setting....One down side: it will not kick it out of O/D if you nail the throttle (like stock) You have to hit the button if you want to use 3rd like a passing gear.
#67
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[GOT POT] played with it today works very well no more hunting for gears Had outside wires reversed still worked switch wires around and worked fine I hooked up pot inside & then just twisted two outside wires on tps wiring before soldering took for test drive & then reversed wires works either way I like hard wiring use to be mopar mechanic & if there is a connection it will fail
#68
I installed a potentiometer on my 93 and it worked fine for several months , but now for some reason it shifts real quick into 2nd then at 25 mph it will go into 3rd then od immediately. The dial does not affect it at all and my od on off switch don't work, can't shut od off. Any ideas on this???
Thanks
Thanks
#69
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Not having much luck getting my pot to work, have tried switching the outside wires, no change, kept messing with it and shorted the pot, tach no longer works after the short circuit, will get a new pot tommorrow and start all over, any ideas about other sensors that might have kept it from working?
#71
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Hate to take this approach, but am going to start replacing sensors and wiring until i get the issue resolved, wish i could have kept this going til i had the rest of my 12v parts sold and my allison conversion done....oh well, live and learn...
#72
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Yes, it works just the same.
Also those of you who want to add a pot and not lose the TPS. Hook some wires to the center wire on the TPS and the ground side(keep TPS connected). Run those inside to the dash. Get a 10K pot and a Diode. It is also a good idea to get a 220uf capacitor. Solder the striped end of the diode to the center post on the pot. Solder the center TPS wire to the free end on the diode. Solder the ground to one of the outside terminals on the pot. This allows you to adjust the TPS and thus lower the shift points and still have the TPS work. The diode is there to keep the voltage from getting too low at idle and throwing a code. The 220uf cap cleans up a bad TPS signal and gets soldered to the two wires from the TPS (+ pos side to the center TPS wire).
Also those of you who want to add a pot and not lose the TPS. Hook some wires to the center wire on the TPS and the ground side(keep TPS connected). Run those inside to the dash. Get a 10K pot and a Diode. It is also a good idea to get a 220uf capacitor. Solder the striped end of the diode to the center post on the pot. Solder the center TPS wire to the free end on the diode. Solder the ground to one of the outside terminals on the pot. This allows you to adjust the TPS and thus lower the shift points and still have the TPS work. The diode is there to keep the voltage from getting too low at idle and throwing a code. The 220uf cap cleans up a bad TPS signal and gets soldered to the two wires from the TPS (+ pos side to the center TPS wire).