That's why you pull the DRL lead out of the connector and reinsert it in the headlamp connector after the relays. (Direct to the bulbs)

 

i figured that was the only way to do it after i learned this. i just thought i would put the info out there. even if they made up harness like Jim's they would still have to do something with the DRL whether it be unplug it or wire it straight to the lights or else they would have this problem.

 

Check here and see if this works.

Jim

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...s-t310460.html

 

Jim, a good friend of mine and i were discussing doing this to my truck. He is an avionics electrician and suggested we throw in a photocell and give the truck auto on/off lights and says he can do this while maintaining the switches capability of working. Do you see any reason this wouldn't work? We are going to try and use your diagram to do it.

 

You could easily build a dark activated relay using a 555, LDR and a few other components to trigger the headlamp relay in place of the light switch but you need to have it powered through your ignition circuit or your truck would act like a big nite light and turn on every time it gets dark.

You would have to play with the position of the LDR so oncoming headlights did not shut them back off, maybe just a delay in the response to the relay.

A spdt switch could select AUTO/OFF operation.

There are plenty of Light/ Dark activated relay circuits on the internet to build around.

Jim

 

Well I'm having trouble locating the self resetting circuit.

 

It's built into the light switch.

 

The one listed in the "parts needed" list in the original post.

 

Any Truck Supply or RV Supply will have them, looks like a small metal box with 2) 10-32 studs and nuts, also used on brake controllers.
NAPA has them.

This is what they look like, I have mine all snapped into a rail on my inside fender panel.

http://www.wiringproducts.com/conten..._breakers.html

Jim

 

Thanks, i was able to get everything else at a local electrical supply place but that one threw the guy for a loop.

 

what do you think of this as far as wiring the relay? if it is ok to wire it like this then it would eliminate the need for a 3rd relay or diode.

 

Well I did the headlight mod and it was working great for awhile. I was driving back home for a ice fishing with some friends and the lights went out on my truck. I pulled the truck over and with a flashlight I didn't see anything wrong. I took the male prongs out of the factory light and plugged the factory light in and the headlight worked.

I took the factory harness back out and plugged in the relays and I hear some clicking going on. These are bosh relays so I assume the clicking means they're working but I'm not getting any power? Grounds look good, I grounded to the frame and not the negative battery terminal. It's been working for a few months like this so I'm not sure what is going on. Unless I have a bad relay.

 

would a bad resistor cause a headlight outage. The odd thing is if I ground the wires to a bolt by tapping on it my head lights would flicker then go out.

 

so you went through all that effort of making the harness and did not run the ground wires to the battery? that is probably the first thing i would do. the frame may be an ok ground but not as good as the engine block or battery. i ground as much to my battery as possible.

 

I tried that last night, I have the harness off the truck and I'm just going to go through it again. This is the seventh one I made so I might have made a mistake somewhere. It's just very strange that is was working for a couple of months and decided to quit.