yes your relay trigger wire plugs into the drivers side headlight plug . high beam to high beam relay, and low beam to low beam relay. by the way for guys that want to drop some coin on a water resistant harness thats plug in painless has a high quality one pn30815.

 

So like this;



I think that is how it goes? Is it the relays per light?

 

Looks like the drawing is right.

 

i was wondering if anyone has figures out how to put the headlights on relays and keep the daytime running lights? i kind of like having the running lights the way they are setup on these truck. dodge seem to be one of the very few company that seems to have got it right and only have them come one once the truck is moving instead of when you turn the key on. i am just not sure how dodge got the running lights to work. to use the running light i think you would have to remove the ground connection so that a ground connection could be drawn from either the high or low beam wire so that power could be applied to the high or low beam wire that is not being ground and have the dim light come on. i was possibly thinking about running power from battery to terminal 87 on a relay and then grounding terminal 87a and then have terminal 30 run to the headlight. then i would just have to use a 3rd relay to control the ground to the headlight. does that sound like it would work?

 

The drl module is on the passenger side fender. If you find what wire goes hot when the truck starts moving, use that to trigger either the high or low relay

 

Well, on all the 1st gens I've ever seen, you pull out the headlight switch one click and the running lights come on. Pull it out another, and both the running lights and headlights are on. Installing relays on the headlights does not affect that any whatsoever.

EDIT: Can someone explain what's going on in the two posts above?

 

no. your running lights do not come on until you the daytime running light module on the passenger side fender gets a signal from the speed sensor. i think DRL are more so a Canadian thing which is why you may not have it

if i was to find which wire is getting power once i am moving and hook the low beam relay to it it would kind of defeat the purpose of having the daytime running lights. no point running your low or high beams when you don't need them. the dim light that comes on should last a long time and make sure people see you even during the day.

 

I see what you're saying. The drl module could be spliced in but not sure it could handle being backfed full power when the relays light up. Would have to take a multimeter and see how many volts are at the lights when the drl is engaged.

 

i don't think the increase in voltage to the lights should have any effect on the DRL module. it's not like putting the headlight on relays increases the voltage that much. i think it is about a 0.5V or less increase.

 

I would say just install the relays as Jim's diagram says. The DRL module powers low beam under some mysterious conditions in addition to normal operation. The power that went to the headlamps now goes to the coils on the relays, and the relays power the headlamps through another power circuit. Doesn't really matter where the coil current comes from, (switch or DRL module)

Shouldn't affect the DRL logic in any way.

 

well i think i will still play with it. doing it Jim's way is just too easy. if i can get it to work i will share.

 

What I'm saying is that the drl lights are about 1/2 as bright as the drl lights. It must only supply the lights with 6v? Might not like being backfed 12v

 

but if you look at the stock wiring diagrams it would already be receiving 12v when you turn the headlights on and i am guess that is why there is also a wire that runs from the headlight switch to the DRL module to shut it off.

 

On my wiring diagrams it shows a dedicated wire from the drl into the supply. So if that were the case it could handle being backfed. The reason I say it must be less then 12v is because the lights are very dim in drl mode. Not sure how else that could be done without dropping the voltage

 

I think the problem with leaving the drl module in the loop when the relays are installed is the module does not put out enough voltage to cause the relay to latch. the relay just chatters