Wow. All I can say is why didn't I do this 10 years and 75,000 miles ago? 75-85 is so quick now!

 

Well, I don't feel so bad. My spring has been sitting on my desk for nearly 6 months, and I was starting to feel guilty.

How long did it take you ?

Anything go wrong when doing it ?


I'm nervous about taking apart a pump that has never been tampered with and currently doesn't leak

 

NJTman, I didn't actually have the spring for that long! I had it in my glovebox for about 9 months.

It took me about 4 hours. But I spent a lot of time messing with the low idle screw trying to get it backed out. The threads were boogered up and it was hard to move.

Nothing went wrong as far as I can tell. I noted the index marks on the throttle shaft. I was super careful with the top hat items. It was a harder than I expected to get the new spring hooked up to the top hat. I was trying to be gentle and didn't want to stretch the spring any more than I needed to. 300,000 miles, original pump, and no leaks after the install!

If you have or get an allen key with the rounded/wobble ends the removal of the 2 bolts on the backside of the pump top is much easier. I ended up making one from a conventional allen key. But I think a proper one would most likely work better.

I also gained about 4psi of boost! I'm now running 28psi at 5000 feet elevation. Not horrible for stock injectors and original H1C.

 

I think the hardest thing was getting the top hat back on. There is a heavy spring that pushes the top had a bit. Holding that and trying to get a screw in was a pain.

 

Just a tip, I remove the throttle shaft from the top housing. Connect the spring to the top hat, and the throttle shaft, then put the cover down and insert the shaft through the housing. This way you can connect the spring without the top housing in the way.

So how are your transmission shifts now with the new spring? Are they super low? Like into 3rd at 30 mph?

 

Now aint that a handy little tip...Thank you!!

 

Apwatson,

That makes sense! Is there any evidence that it makes the throttle shaft seal more prone to leaks afterwords?

 

Oh, and the transmission shifts are fine. I had the transmission rebuilt last spring. And whatever magic they did in there, the shifts were a little bit high for my taste. So now, with the 366 spring, they are very appropriate. I don't think it lowered the shift points all that much however. I may do a little TV cable fiddling now to see if I can dial in the shifts a bit better.

 

Start talking to Bill about it and ask him a million questions and tear into it...about halfway through he'll stop by and do it for you!

 

I would always change the o-ring on the throttle shaft regardless. Unless I know it has been changed recently.

 

Lol...

 

There is a how to video on YouTube if u need more know how on doin it help me

 

Thanks, but I have Bill to do it for me....

 

saw this thread and thought "****, i have a fuel pin and spring to do also..." well i put mine in yesterday-took about 2 hours. holy cow- why didn't i do that a long time ago? truck runs like a bat out of hell. idle is actually lower now, around 800 rpm and it runs like crazy. getting pretty good black smoke from it though- is this normal or do i need to turn smoke screw down some. also was wondering if i need to do anything with the starwheel now or just leave everything alone........got pin from bd and it was much easier than i thought. did 2 days of homework on youtube and this forum on install procedure before i "grew a pair" and took the plunge. had a buddy that is diesel mechanic on hand with 3/4 plywood at the ready for runaway. everything went perfect and truck is TOTALLY different now. truck is a 98 extended cab 4x4 with 93 1st gen 12v and 5 speed in it.

 

Back out the smokescrew completly, i have had much better luck with the starwheel turned up flush with its threaded mounting post. Turbo spools faster, more boost and less smoke this way.