DDP4 Tuning Tips . . . . ?
#1
1st Generation Admin
Thread Starter
DDP4 Tuning Tips . . . . ?
I've gone and bought Ilikebiles DDP4's and am wondering what those of you running the same have found to work best with them.
- IP timing?
- Washer thickness (other than that DDP recommends)?
I'm currently running PDR 190's and have the IP timed at 2.0mm (stock was 1.4mm).
DDP says they normally use 1.5mm thick washers. Greg is sending those with the injectors and I plan on using them unless someone knows better.
Finally, I plan on tuning the IP so as to minimize smoke related to getting groceries. Does anyone know if there's enough range left in the star-wheel to help keep the part throttle/low boost area clean?
Any other tips, suggestions?
Ultimately, these are a stepping stone to bigger EDM's but I've got some internal long-block work to do first. Then bigger squirter's and spinny thing.
- IP timing?
- Washer thickness (other than that DDP recommends)?
I'm currently running PDR 190's and have the IP timed at 2.0mm (stock was 1.4mm).
DDP says they normally use 1.5mm thick washers. Greg is sending those with the injectors and I plan on using them unless someone knows better.
Finally, I plan on tuning the IP so as to minimize smoke related to getting groceries. Does anyone know if there's enough range left in the star-wheel to help keep the part throttle/low boost area clean?
Any other tips, suggestions?
Ultimately, these are a stepping stone to bigger EDM's but I've got some internal long-block work to do first. Then bigger squirter's and spinny thing.
#2
I guess there is a difference to using ddp 4 's in 98 12 valve then. When I called them, they said .5 mm washers....or the thinist .020. Thats what I used.
I get virtually no smoke to half throttle now. Starting is fairly easy to, and smoother then before. Im at 17 deg of timing, but on my pump its like 5.5 or something.
I get virtually no smoke to half throttle now. Starting is fairly easy to, and smoother then before. Im at 17 deg of timing, but on my pump its like 5.5 or something.
#3
Adminstrator-ess
I don't have those particular injectors, but one of the best things you can do to clean things up on the bottom end with large injectors is to grind out the inside of the AFC cover and shave down the top of the AFC cone to get more up-travel. Just check travel with grease to make sure you don't go to high and drop the fuel pin in the groove. Run the star wheel as high as you can without having coil bind limit down-travel.
#4
1st Generation Admin
Thread Starter
I guess there is a difference to using ddp 4 's in 98 12 valve then. When I called them, they said .5 mm washers....or the thinist .020. Thats what I used.
I get virtually no smoke to half throttle now. Starting is fairly easy to, and smoother then before. Im at 17 deg of timing, but on my pump its like 5.5 or something.
I get virtually no smoke to half throttle now. Starting is fairly easy to, and smoother then before. Im at 17 deg of timing, but on my pump its like 5.5 or something.
That I'm installing are supposedly good for about 75hp. Not sure which you're running as I think I saw about four or five different types to choose from for the 2nd gen on the DDP website.
I think I run about 1000psig lower "Pop" pressure than you as well.
But thanks anyway.
#5
1st Generation Admin
Thread Starter
I don't have those particular injectors, but one of the best things you can do to clean things up on the bottom end with large injectors is to grind out the inside of the AFC cover and shave down the top of the AFC cone to get more up-travel. Just check travel with grease to make sure you don't go to high and drop the fuel pin in the groove. Run the star wheel as high as you can without having coil bind limit down-travel.
I was hoping to find out more info about the injectors and called DDP. The fellas there were surprisingly ignorant of the actual dimensions of the tip orifices. They're rated at about 55 LPM which makes any comparison with any other injectors . . . . "Difficult" .. at best. I was able to drag out of them that the older version run five holes and the newer four.
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Waddell, AZ
Posts: 685
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Run them with the AFC wherever you want. I only run the AFC at the top in the hot summer. How old are those 4's? They rate them up at 100, nowadays, unless you get them opened up a little more. I chose to run the .020 washers.
#9
1st Generation Admin
Thread Starter
If I recall correctly, Greg had them advertised as having 4 to 5 thousand miles on them.
That's interesting Fred, you and 1320 mention the 0.020 washer. When I talked to the folks at DDP today, he indicated the fella who knew the most about the 1st gen series was out or no longer with them, can't remember right now, but he had no idea where the timing might be best for these.
Here's what DDP shows as of today (40hp & 80hp) ~ http://www.dynomitediesel.com/prod_d...irst+Gen/0.php
That's interesting Fred, you and 1320 mention the 0.020 washer. When I talked to the folks at DDP today, he indicated the fella who knew the most about the 1st gen series was out or no longer with them, can't remember right now, but he had no idea where the timing might be best for these.
Here's what DDP shows as of today (40hp & 80hp) ~ http://www.dynomitediesel.com/prod_d...irst+Gen/0.php
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Crockett, CA
Posts: 650
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm pretty sure these are the 5 hole injectors. I looked at the tips to compare them to my EDMs, and if I remember correctly they were "spaced" like there were 5 holes. I think they're 5x0.014s.
They're about a year old.
As for the horsepower rating, piers has them advertised as 75 horsepower on their products page and 100 horsepower on their onlince store page. Go figure?
They're about a year old.
As for the horsepower rating, piers has them advertised as 75 horsepower on their products page and 100 horsepower on their onlince store page. Go figure?
#11
1st Generation Admin
Thread Starter
Well, simply swapping the injectors without touching the IP presents with a truck that'll "Git On Up There" complete with matching EGTs.
Haven't had the chance to do any tuning just yet.
I'm thinking a little more advance on the IP timing might be in order. Not much I think. I'm currently running 2.0mm (Stock/OEM is 1.4mm). I once had the timing at 2.10 with the 190's and it ran kinda funny. . . .. "stuffy" comes to mind.
Perhaps water down the methanol.
I definitely need to loosen the Star-Wheel!
Haven't had the chance to do any tuning just yet.
I'm thinking a little more advance on the IP timing might be in order. Not much I think. I'm currently running 2.0mm (Stock/OEM is 1.4mm). I once had the timing at 2.10 with the 190's and it ran kinda funny. . . .. "stuffy" comes to mind.
Perhaps water down the methanol.
I definitely need to loosen the Star-Wheel!
#13
Banned
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Cape Girardeau MO
Posts: 1,205
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Stock pop pressures- 1stGen- 3550psi
- 2ndGen- 3825psi.
Not much difference, IMO, but enough to warrant a degree or so of timing.
I wouldnt think you'd want to run that much timing, but then I do think outside the box and rarely follow the crowd. The bigger sticks ought to allow RETARDED timing from what you had with stock sticks (dont get me wrong- I'm all for timing above stock), all else being equal- as the fuel gets in there all at once, so to speak. The key is to find the OPTIMAL timing for your setup- advanced enough to get a good burn of the fuel, but not so advanced that the engine is fighting itself during combustion (pushing the piston up, while combustion is trying to force it down).
I had a CPL804 '91 that I advanced the timing 1/8" on. Ran it like that for a while, as acceleration and EGTs were good, though MPGs fell off somewhat (1-2). I put a gauge on it, and found I was at ~2.04mm . I rolled it back to 1.6, (about 1/16" above where the marks on it) and gained 2mpg back.
My advice would be to find out the pop pressure of the DDP4s, and go from there.
Daniel
- 2ndGen- 3825psi.
Not much difference, IMO, but enough to warrant a degree or so of timing.
I wouldnt think you'd want to run that much timing, but then I do think outside the box and rarely follow the crowd. The bigger sticks ought to allow RETARDED timing from what you had with stock sticks (dont get me wrong- I'm all for timing above stock), all else being equal- as the fuel gets in there all at once, so to speak. The key is to find the OPTIMAL timing for your setup- advanced enough to get a good burn of the fuel, but not so advanced that the engine is fighting itself during combustion (pushing the piston up, while combustion is trying to force it down).
I had a CPL804 '91 that I advanced the timing 1/8" on. Ran it like that for a while, as acceleration and EGTs were good, though MPGs fell off somewhat (1-2). I put a gauge on it, and found I was at ~2.04mm . I rolled it back to 1.6, (about 1/16" above where the marks on it) and gained 2mpg back.
My advice would be to find out the pop pressure of the DDP4s, and go from there.
Daniel
#14
Registered User
#15
1st Generation Admin
Thread Starter
BUT!!