I just went on the snap-on website and ordered a special tool for taking out the pump. On the "sticky", a video had a bunch of special tools. Do i really need them or is my snap-on wrench and some good old monkey rigging good enough?

 

I just pulled my VE pump out last week and the second time it took less that 4 minuets with my wife holding the light.

All it took was my 13mm manifold wrench for the bottom nut, short extension and flexible ratchet on the backside and regular box wrench in the front.

This was including removed the timing gear nut and popping the shaft with a puller with long bolts borrowed from the grid heaters, removed the fuel and boost lines and linkage.

I removed the fuel lines with a crowsfoot wrench.

I already had the brackets removed.

I did not find any need for any special wrenches but they might have made it easier.
Jim

 

So i need a puller? What kind of puller?

 

First you remove your oil fill tube to access the front of the pump gear.

Then bar the engine around till the keyway is pointing up.

Now stuff a shop rag down the front of the case between the case and the front of the gear to block anything you might drop down there, like the nut.

Then you need to loosen up the 22mm nut and remove it from the pump shaft.



You will need a simple gear puller; you can get this at Auto Zone for about $15.00 if you don’t already have one.

(You can print this picture and take it with you.)

Borrow 2 of the long bolts from the grid heaters to use a puller bolts; they will have a 10mm head.



If it had never been off before it might be on real good and tight so just keep cranking on the bolt, a carefully placed rap with a hammer to the end of the bolt might help.

The shaft is tapered so once it pops it will be completely loose.

Hope this helps
Jim

 

Good pictures Jim,

I just use my steering wheel puller, the kit even came with the right size bolts. Also on re-install make sure that both the gear and shaft of the pump are clean and free from oil, then install gear making 100% sure that the key doesn't get pushed out etc..., then torque nut. After torquing take a socket that will fit around the nut and place against gear and give it a couple taps with a hammer to make sure that the gear is "seated", and then torque nut again.