Do you have to have the "special" tools to remove and replace injectors on these 1998.5-? trucks?

 

none needed. Pull the injector lines aside, use a screwdriver against the threads of the injector tubes to pry them out past the o ring. Use one of the valve cover bolts screwed into the injector, put your fist around it and squeeze it up and out. If you find them too tight, just put a socket or a block or something to pry against the head of the bolt, they come right out.

 

You might need to use the pry bar method with one of the shorter bolts on #5 and #6 because of the reduced clearance above. Other than that, no worries.

Boyd.

 

Thanks guys!!

 

Offset (bent) needle nose pliers work very well to grab under the head of the bolt to pop the injectors out. You might need a brass o-ring pick or something similar should one of the copper seals from the base of the injectors decide to stay in the cylinder head. An inch-pound torque wrench is handy to torque the injector hold down bolts (something like 83 inch-lbs as I recall). You may need a 19mm crow's foot to get the back 2 injector lines loose.

The hardest thing I ran across was breaking loose the bolts on the driver's side engine lifting lug to remove it to get to cylinders #5 and #6.

Rusty

 

FYI-- The injector lines are 19mm, not 17mm.

If you use a stubby 19mm, you don't need to remove the lifting lug. It will also keep you from overtightening it.

Just use the good-n-tight method and you'll be fine on the injector lines. The injector hold downs don't need much torque at all.

Justin

 

Justin,

OK, I fixed it - changed 17mm to 19mm. You just wait - someday you'll be old like me (if you're lucky), and your memory will disappear, too!

Rusty

 

Jeez, anyone ever hear of a 3/4 wrench? Grind one in half for the back ones.

 

I live too close to Sears Hardware. It was a good excuse to pick up a new set of metric crowfoot wrenches!

Rusty

 

I think the Snap On man named his new boat after me!

 

injector holdown torque 89inlbs