OF ALL THINGS passing an emission test like we have here where I live in western Washington state. I know to get more power you need to get more fuel (and air) in (and out) and through the system, I understand that. And I understand that even though slightly underpowered being almost completely stock, my mileage is around 23 back & forth to work and it passes the emissions test with flying colors (their scale shows my truck blowing a .05 and I'm allowed up to a .45 I think, so there's a LONG ways to go there). In fact, the guy who tested my truck told me he's never seen one of these turbo'd Dodge's ever fail an emissions test. The ones that failed according to him were the non-turbo'd cars and trucks which are getting rarer and rarer. And while black smoke is barrelling from that hopped up Cummins with the tires screaching and smoking as well is cool to see that ain't my truck. My truck MUST pass that emissions test, no matter what!!
So, what kind of mods could one do to our trucks for more power, just as good mileage and still EASILY pass a state emissions test?? Or is that even possible?? What would you do first and what would you watch for?? Thanks for your guys' help!! Chuck

 

Move to a "no emissions testing required" state/city or sell your truck for $1 and a wink/nod to your brother who lives there.

 

Chuck, is your state's test a "snap" test where they floor it in neutral or is it a load test? A snap test is easy to pass if you set up the AFC correctly and you run clean injectors like 190's. A load test will take careful tuning, but I think you can get at least 250 RWHP clean enough to pass easily.

Go ahead and turn up the main fuel screw some. Your AFC settings will need to be more conservative than a lot of us, you can turn the pin to max depth, but keep the star wheel up pretty high. You will have to back out the smoke screw as you add more fuel with the main screw to keep the "snap" clean. The snap test is easy to cheat around because as long as the smoke screw is backed way out there will be no smoke when they snap the throttle.

Do the 3200 RPM spring for sure. If you run in traffic a lot, you really ought to get a used HX-35 or WH1C with the 12 cm wastegated housing. That change alone will make it feel like a new truck.

 

Ya, it's the snap idle test, I think they call it. It almost borders on truck abuse in my opinion. They require it every other year until it's so many years old.

Go ahead and turn up the main fuel screw some. Is that the Power Adjustment Screw they show in the diagrams??

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll list them in order of cost to accomplish:

1. Adjust the pump http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/more_power/Power_ve.htm
2. Install a 3200 rpm spring http://dens-site.net/Dodge_CTD/Gover...ing/index.html
3. Change the turbo housing to either a HX-35 or WH1C with the 12 cm wastegated housing (Here's a change to a 16cm model) http://www.tstproducts.com/index.asp...WPROD&ProdID=5
4. Exhaust system ($400!! Check it out) http://www.performancedieselinc.com/...st-system.aspx
5. Install 190 or similar injectors
6. If all else fails....move http://www.zillow.com

Any thoughts on an improved exhaust sytem?? Maybe (for me) not performance orientated only but a new sounding truck would be nice. But like my bike, not obnoxiously loud just pleasantly loud if that makes sense. I'll do a search for turning up the pump unless someone has the location/link for best thread explaining the process. Thanks again! Chuck

 

I live in western WA also I hear they are putting a end to the testing soon. I could be wrong but I hope not. I am starting some mods to my truck. I want to get to 250 hp. 223k on mine. Just installed a 12 cm turbo housing today and put the 18.5 on the work bench. next is exaust and fuel pin.

 

Hey Falcon, that sounds like my story too!! I've had mine since new and I've always taken care of it and been happy with it too. I just want some new life in the old truck if that makes sense. Nothing radical but whatever I do I don't want to have to register the thing at my uncle's down in Elma, WA to get away from the testing as that's a hassle too!! It's a commuter rig too driving 60 miles round trip per day, 5 days a week.
You mentioned in your other post about a diesel shop in Enumclaw?? Is that right? How about an address and phone number for these guys??
I'll probably start with a turn of the screw, then respring the gov, then an exhaust system. I LIKE tyhe stack look but around here some ******* would probably throw something into the pipe creating havok with the old girl so we'll keep to a single performance type system down underneath. Take care! Chuck

 

Chuck, I would put your #4 much higher on the list. You will not believe the difference that little housing makes even with a totally stock pump. And put #5 above #3.

 

just crank the snot out of the AFC before your test

 

I did the list by cost...from adjusting the pump yourself which should be free to 6 new injectors which is around $100 per injector not including installation costs if any. The new 16cm turbo housing runs about $175 and the exhaust system will run you 4 bills plus shipping. You're right tho in that I'd probably do the housing change first, adjust the pump next and then do the exhaust or respring, flip a coin. Would that be about the right order of the mods listed? Thanks for your guys' input!!

 

no problem... (I'm really suprised they have you 'snap' a 2wd. they Dyno all my diesel cars, but snap my 4x4's and HD (tandem) trucks)
so, to pass...in order of ease...(just for test, of course)
1) put a block under accelerator (I have a few friends with 'Banks kits', who do this)
2) or loosen WOT adjustment at pump (same benefit as above)
3) run some B99 (biodiesel blend w/ $.99 rebate ) (it works great, brew your own, or get it in Olympia or Tacoma, probably cheaper than diesel ) (long term use in 1st gen requires lift pump change from OEM, (membrane to crancase oil decays) and if you use much BD, It will likely flush your tank of crud, keep a fuel filter handy, or run on an 'auxilary tank' (can in the front seat )
4) adjust smoke screw and other pump tweaks (use a lean fuel pin)
5) register in a different county (temporarily... till Christine zaps them all )

I suppose the testing for diesels will change, now that we got CARB'd (of course we will no longer be able to buy new diesel cars...) (finally the politicos won -all three states on the 'left coast' are now officially one (Kalifornia)

 

thats why i live in "Wy" no inspections or i/m! gas or diesel....ok, one of the reason!!

 

It used to be like that around here until all the kalifornians came up here and kalifornicated this place. Bringing all their whacko lefty propaganda against the automobile with them and running up the cost of real estate around here too....WAIT A MINUTE....WAIT A MINUTE. That's right, this is the place where the left leaning city dwellers dictate election results (or come right out and steal the election like in our governor's race last time). The whole state can vote conservatively and then King county comes into play, submitting umpteen thousand votes going the other way, making this state look like some liberal oasis. Whoever said the current Gov is going to end or eliminate the emissions testing program doesn't know much about Democrats in power....who'll NEVER eliminate any government program, especially one where they can put the common man (who LOVES his truck almost as much as his guns) under the dictatorial thumb of government and pick his pocket all at the same time!! And with the help of the other party, no less.
But enough of that...I didn't say anything that most of you that live around here don't already know. Pretty soon we'll all be driving Hybrids or electrics that get 60 mpg anyway (when we're not on their outrageously expensive light rail trains to nowhere) and these Dodge diesels will be nothing but fond memories....just like the muscle cars of my youth (the 60's and 70's).
In the meantime, let's continue on souping up these trucks AND HAVING SOME FUN!!! Thanks for all of your help & suggestions everyone!! Chuck

 

Yesterday I called a local, reputable diesel shop that was recommended to me by a friend, also a diesel truck owner. I talked to the service guy and told him that I wanted to "pep up" my truck and after much research I inquired as to my plan of replacing the turbo housing with a 16cm model for added boost and performance as well as the other mods on my list listed earlier in this thread. He asked about the miles on the odometer, asked if it smoked that bad (apparently a new turbo housing is a cure for excess smoke??) and basically didn't think too much of my plan and suggested one of his own. He suggested rebuilding the pump because of mileage on the rig and while they were at that, they'd do a "performance upgrade" (or dial it up) on the pump. He said it would be a better way to accomplish what I was after though it was more expensive but because of the miles on the truck I will be doing some work in the future on the pump anyway. Nothing lasts forever.... He said that with a set of new injectors again because of the miles on my truck and mine were "tired" ($70 each through them) I'd have the pep I was looking for though there'd be a "little more smoke" but there'd be no problem passing emissions testing. He mentioned that the truck would have "around 220 to 240 rwhp" the magic number also mentioned by wannadiesel that should also pass emissions testing. His plan would be the rebuilding with a performance upgrade of the pump and to run that for awhile and then, if you want more, then add the injectors. After that he said you could do what you want as far as replacing the exhaust or respringing the gov but he'd do the pump mods FIRST. Oh ya, the price....he quoted me a price of "about $1200" for the pump rebuild/upgrade and "about $600" for fresh injectors, both include installation.
Anyone have any comments or thoughts on his "plan of action" besides being on the spendy side??? Thanks you guys!! Chuck

 

If the pump is going to be apart to be rrebult.......Why not add the spring while there there?

 

I say if it ain't broke don't fix it. Your pump could last another 100k or only another 10k you just don't know but I wouldn't go tearing into something just because. That alot of money to be spending on something that isn't broken or really worn out. Also you don't know when the last time it was rebuilt.

I had my stock injectors cleaned and readjusted and cost me ~$100. But all the tips were in good condition. New tips would cost ~$40 a piece. For $600 you could almost get EDM injectors. I wish I would have known about them before I got the 190 injectors.