Boy am I happy I don't have to emissions test my truck!!!!!!!!!!! All those clean air freaks can stick it you know where!!!!! And after moving down to florida I no longer have to safety inspect my truck as Maine requires!!!!!! to state imposed controls brought on by the guys in August that don't have a clue about anything automotive!!
Sorry for the rant

 

I also would not rebuild the pump. I am going slow on mine, checking and rechecking before I do anything. If I do too much I will be into my tranny. check here for the power shop in Enumclaw www.thepowershop.com. Also check Piers for injectors. His web site shows that he has three different ones for first gens www.piersdiesel.com. I was looking at the PDR2210POD-K Lucas "Prince of Darkness" Injectors $440.00. but I will go with the 190's. In a couple of months (it's only money lol)

12 Valve - 1st Gen Injectors

PDR2210190-k Bosch 190 Performance Injectors 91.5 - 93 $399.00
PDR2210185-K Bosch 185 Performance Injectors $820.00
PDR2210POD-K Lucas "Prince of Darkness" Injectors $440.00
PDR2010079 Adapter tip - required with 89-91.5 non-intercooled $8.00 ea

If your looking for exaust you can get one that you can do yourself from here, from the down pipe to the tail pipe including high flow muffler all in 4" for around $270.00 delivered. www.dieselperformancesystem.com. I hope I could be some help to you.

Greg

 

Ya, that's what I thought too....too much $$ on that pump. And there's nothing (other than age & miles) wrong with it (oh it's never been rebuilt as I'm the original owner since purchasing the truck new). I STILL think the plan as listed above would the way to go. Change the turbo housing, "adjust" the pump one or two turns first thing. And also respring the gov. The guy I talked to didn't seem to think much of that, why, besides he'd like my money, I won't guess. I also like the gradual approach when it comes spending (my) money and would rather do a little at a time. I just want to do whatever in whichever order the right way. I can imagine spending $600 on a performance upgrade but I couldn't imagine doing it then not having the planned "pep".
Anyway, I knew I'd get the right advice from this crowd. THANKS again you guys!! Chuck

 

I've done the basic cheap mods. Fuel screw, AFC cone and spring, 16cm housing, BHAF. And my truck runs VERY clean. It only slightly hazes at foot-through-the-floor pedal with something like 24lbs. of boost. And there's a small puff when you tromp on it from a stop. The secret is in the AFC setup. I tuned the spring so that I only get full travel at full boost. Not before. That's what keeps the smoke away. I like power, but I'm not willing throw clouds of smoke out at every stoplight and all the way up the passes. I feel I've attained the max power I can with my setup right now. And I pass the emissions in Colorado with flying non-colors. Something like 5% opacity is what I recorded.

 

That's good to hear Tucker! That's what I'm after too....a slight to mild pep up of the old girl and all the while being able to pass the test, that's all I want.

I was just reading a writeup on Bio-Diesel and I was interested in where it says it burns cleaner with LESS emissions. I'm sure that's true...it should be beneficial in some way at $3.29 per gallon around the Tacoma WA area currently at Associated Petrolium in Fife at Port of Tacoma Road and SR 99.
What would burning Bio-Diesel do if you ran that in a pumped up rig when it came time for the emissions test? Would that mean you could run a more powerful setup and yet not worry about increased emissiions because you run the french fry oil instead of conventional diesel?? Anyone do that??

Here's what I was reading:

http://www.biodiesel.org/pdf_files/f...monlyAsked.PDF

 

Vary interesting site indeed!!!!!! thanks chuxtruk

 

Chuck, for your modest power goals I think you would be better served with a 12 cm WG housing than a 16 cm. It'll be cheaper, too.

Your fuel economy hasn't taken a dive, so the injectors are probably still in good shape.

 

Dave, can you talk about the different housings and the theory behind each one, the 16 and the 12 and the disadvantage/advantages of each? Their effects on boost? Why the 12? What's a wastegate? Will a wastegated turbo work on my currently non-wastegated truck? Can you do this one yourself or is this a job for the turbo shop? How much and how long to change? I admit, I know nothing about turbos other than what they do & how they work. Seems like the place to start though... thanks!! Chuck

 

I went to a 12cm WG housing on mine, removed a 18.5 non wg and love it. If you don't plan on towing large loads and and running high RPM's the 12 cm will work real well it spools faster and add performance to your truck.If you are going to haul heavy and run higher RPM's a 14 cm or a 16cm would work a little better WG or not, always watch your EGT's. A waist gate dumps excess boost over a set pressure. I have a preset fitting that I tapped into my cold side housing of the turbo that is pre set to 36 lbs so I don't have to mess with setting up the WG, makes it simple stupid(LOL). I did all the work myself, I will post photos in my album.
Depending on what turbo you have on your truck now, all your are changing is the housing on the compression side of your turbo. Cost wise. call around and price the housings they can run around $100.00 give or take a few $. Oh ya make sure you have some penatrating oil on hand when you do it the housings can be a bugger to take apart. soaked mine for a couple of hours before it broke loose.

Greg

 

Greg covered it pretty well.

The big reason to run a 12 cm is the near instant spool-up. It makes a 5 speed truck way more fun to drive. Also you can usually find used 12 cm's for less than a 16 cm will cost.

Changing the turbine housing isn't too hard, just takes persistance.

Putting the 12 cm housing on the stock turbo is likely to cause a low RPM/high boost turbo surge. You will notice a "flat" feeling to the motor and a chuffing sound during the surging. You can drive around it (I did for 6 months) or install one of the HTT compressor upgrades (Stage III is the best bang for the buck). You would have under $300 in the turbo if you did it that way. You could also buy a used turbo off a 2nd gen, if you can get a good one for around $200 that would be a good way to go.

 

you're not burning dinosaurs, so... no black smoke, no opacity to measure (there is a slight brown color, but I doubt if it would cause but a blip in opacity)

There could be a very limited lose of power (less that 5% statistically)

I don't run it in mine, as I'm not 'home-brewing' ($0.70/gal) due to hassle. http://www.biodieselcommunity.org/appleseedprocessor/ (not too tough...)
Plus I usually run my VW-d's (52 mpg) But I wouldn't hesitate for a moment to run high quality Bio-D (which is a challenge to find) You really want Canola or Mustard as a feed stock, but need to go to Colorado (blueSun) http://www.gobluesun.com/
or Canada for the good stuff. The american soy bean council (biodiesel.org) has a 'hidden' agenda (of course)... If your gonna run that stuff, BE SURE to have a fuel pressure gauge, as you might starve your Bosch VE, of which they are not too fond of doing.... $,$$$

the only thing you need for a Bio-d 1st Gen is an updated lift pump (which isn't a bad idea anyway) and the usual pre cleaning / multi fuel filter proceedure for switching to Bio-d (higher solvent properties) I would add a 'racor' filter (I get mine at the junk yard for $5.) The U of Idaho has an early 1st gen that hasn't ever seen dino diesel , but it did have a crankcase full of Bio-d one time... (lift pump membrane failure)

I have a friend in Colorado who's making 2.5 mil gal / yr BD from Waste oil, and several in WA who are home brewers. There are often seminars in Seattle for DIY steps, and a big home brewing community in both Olympia and Tacoma, as well as 'co-op's'

 

Piers has non wastegated 12cm housings for $177, same price for a nwg 14cm, a wg 14cm @ $415. Other than that, finding a wg 12 cm housing, new OR used seems to be difficult at best. 16cm models are everywhere but where would you look for a wastegated 12cm turbine housing and is it going to be as much as the 14cm? Why does that wg 14cm housing cost so much?? I don't tow and IF I ever do, it's a light motorcycle trailer that weighs next to nothing or an occasional car trailer with a car on board. But not often and not far. Basically it's a commuter's rig more than anything. That 12cm wg housing sounds great, I just seem to be having a hard time finding one...
Thanks for your help!! Chuck

 

The best places to find a 12 cm housing: DTR or TDR classifieds and Ebay. You shouldn't pay more than $75. Be patient, you'll find one at the right price.

A 14 non WG would be OK assuming you never went to bigger injectors - but knowing the slippery slope the way I do - never say never. Wait for a 12 cm WG.

The 14 WG is expensive because it was not used on a lot of applications. I have one and it was a waste. I should've just bought a bigger turbo.

 

Chuck check here www.thepowershop.com get the phone no. call and ask for Mike S. (Sales man)Or Mike R. (Works in the shop). I think they may have a used 12cm WG from a second gen they will sell for alot less if they still have it. That is where I got mine. Tell Mike R. That Greg (falcon) from the North West Bombers sent ya. These guys are fantastic and their in Enumclaw. Also they do good work on these trucks.

Greg

 

O.K. Thanks! I'll be keeping a sharp eye out for one....
Will a complete 2nd gen turbo work? That is, bolt right on?? What'd be a fair price for a good used 2nd gen, providing it will work?
When it comes to freshening up my Dodge/Cummins the word NEVER isn't in that sentence. At least since I've been hanging out around here....you guys are a BAD INFLUENCE on me and my truck!! Too bad I didn't know about this place long ago, just think of all the fun I coulda had.