This is what I need, I have some of the part numbers so far from searching on here but I need the rest. Let me know if any of the numbers I got are wrong.

I need to redo my rear axle seals and possibly shoes so I figure since I gotta pull it apart I may as well get it all done with so I don't have to pull anything apart for a while. I'm converting to 3" shoes too and probably the 1 1/8" bore wheel cylinders. Any info would be helpful, thanks a lot guys!


Steering box
Steering box high pressure line fitting

3” brake shoes – NAPA - TS-358, Raybestos - 314PG
3”wheel cylinder - NAPA - 4636057and 4636058, Raybestos - WC36057/WC36058
BORES - 1" (Bendix 3304 & 3305) on 2.5" brakes and 1 1/8" (33206 & 33207) on 3"
Self adjuster cables x2
Self adjuster/Starwheel assemblies!

wheel bearings
rear drums
Axle seals (if drums don’t come with them)
Dana 70 2 9/16” lock nut & lock nut tab
Dana 70 axle gasket

 

You will need the seals, they don't come with the drums.

I'd try to avoid changing the drums. Getting the hubs off them is no fun at all.

I don't bother with the axle gaskets, a thin bead of oil tolerant RTV works just fine and is a lot easier to find than axle gaskets.

 

Well with the drums I was going to just replace them because they probably could be replaced. I don't even know how old they are but they sure are rusty and getting worn a good little bit too... I guess if all else fails I could just re-use them but I might take a stab at trying to get those hubs off.

I had used a silicone-type gasket stuff before and it worked great, no leaks but I figured I'd just get all the right stuff and do a bang up job... I guess it's not necessary. Not at all really... and cheaper... hm... well I guess you're right and I knew it all along. lol

I think I got the part number for the axle seals. For some reason Napa has like 4 different drums listed... From what I've read on here the drums should be the same right? and if the drums are the same, so should the axle seals correct?

 

Dude, if you are gonna dump that much cash into the rear brakes.. Just do a disc conversion.. I bet it would be the same price maybe even cheaper.. I did mine for 250-275...

 

The drums have nothing to do with the axle seals. The hubs have the seal in them. I just finished everything on my 93 that you describe. My drums were ok and the shoes were brand new. I replaced wheel cylinders, spring hold down, both adjuster kits, and seals. If you go with 3 inch shoes you need the 1 1/8 cyl to go with it. My 93 3/4 ton already had the 3 inch shoes. I know it came on it from day one because I worked with the original owner and I remember him getting the wrong parts because the 3/4's are supposed to have the smaller 2.5 inch shoes. I had NAPA look up the seals and like you say there is more then 1. I gave them my old seal number and they crossed that. It did not come up to any of the choices. I just had them send me the crossed number seal and it fit good. If you really need the numbers I bought let me know. I will get dressed and go find the slips.

 

Kinda off the thread but!!!! Your talking about brakes, shoes, seals ect. I ran into a problem doing the last break job that may jinx us all. I ruined a rear hub on my 92 W350, of course it's not available anymore. No problem I'll go to Napa and order one, after they made many inquirys not available. Does any of you guys that has done brake job found that you needed a hub? Where did you get it? I went to 7 or 8 junk/salvage yards and found nothing. I ended up finding one 2 miles from where I live-bought the whole truck. Any ideas what will interchange or where to find them ect?

 

Sorry I can't help ya RollinCoal. I do need to ask (maybe selfishly so I don't make the mistake too) but what did you do/how did you ruin a hub?

Richie - I dug through some old receipts. I found a seal of some sort bought from Napa. The PN #28746. Can you cross reference that # with yours for me? I'd appreciate that a ton.

Also, yes I know I gotta switch to the 1 1/8" bore cylinders
The numbers I got off of here for that are the numbers listed in my first post. Unless those are wrong, I'll assume they are right.

I guess the disc conversion is an option but I don't know what to get for parts or what to do to do the job. I have read the disc conversion requires a larger MC and also they can have rust/seizing problems and for where I live rust is always a problem so it would be more hassle than it's worth putting something on my truck that's prone to that sort of thing. Unless you can convince me otherwise

 

Ok,


These numbers are the same as your post above but will post them again.

NAPA
oil seals 28746 $ 13.00 each
Wheel cyl 36057, 36058 $10.43 each
maxi spring kit ( complete spring and hold down kit ) 2243 $13.02 each
adjuster kit 80848 and 80849 $28.49 each
brake shoes TS - 358 $24.14 plus $15 core.


This was for my 93 w250 extended cab. It had the 3 inch shoes from factory. ( don't ask me why )

All these parts were correct for my application.









.

 

oh thanks Richie! I appreciate that. I got some quotes yesterday and some of the part numbers don't match. So I know the quote was for the wrong part... oh and jeez... parts are a lot cheaper in the US... what a burn.

Nobody has drum numbers eh?
Or inner and outer bearing part numbers?

Any tricks to get the hub separated from the drum? I got the wheel studs out but am sorta lost as to how to get this thing apart lol. It's right rusted. I'm probably going to just go to the 5/8" studs too. Why not, it's totally apart...

I got the truck completely apart now. Things are pretty rusted. I am even considering replacing the backing plate... I got those off too at the moment.

I've never done the axle seals before. Do I need to put a little oil on there or keep it clean?

 

As far as the part numbers they may still fit. Maybe the store has a different line of parts. Drum numbers NO. mine were fine. Bearings. I could have told you 2 days ago when they were out. I put RTV silicone on the metal part of the seals where they come in contact with the hub. I usually rub grease on the new seals as well as the spindle where it rides. After you put on the hub and wheel bearing nut you are supposed to fill the bearing cavity with gear oil so there is no run dry period. Seperating the hubs and drums. Patience and a big hammer with lots of penetrating oil. One more thing. Make sure your bearing retaining nut is in good shape and does not spin with hands. Also pound that little lock in there real good. These trucks have been known to loose the whole hub, wheel, and axle assembly due to the bearing nut comming off.

 

I suppose some of the numbers weren't right because it could be a different line I didn't even think of that. I'll find out in a day or so when the weather clears up when I buy the parts.

Yeah I already know I need to replace the wheel nuts... so that's on the list. Good call on filling the hub though, I knew that but forgot so I appreciate that reminder. :stupid:

Oh one more question. Anyone know how much oil the whole axle/diff holds if it's completely dry? The oil is pretty dark and is just starting to get the metallic look from metal.