I was getting pretty tired/scared of driving with my sloppy stock steering, so I fixed it. I was going to get a borgeson but I am broke and this route only cost me $70 from the local driveline shop. This setup is very beefy, way overkill. Just thought I'd share some pics.

First, I cut the old piece of junk rag joint off. From the measurements I took at home and at the driveline shop, we decided to use a longer slip yoke just to make sure it would fit. I think I could have gotten away with a shorter one which would have been cheaper, but better safe than sorry. I put the U joint together, bolted everything up on the truck, marked it, tack welded it, test fit it again, then fully TIG welded it with 2 passes at about 100 amps or so. This thing ain't going anywhere.


Finished product, not yet painted.


Painted and ready to install. To test it, I put the front wheels against a curb and cranked the wheel. No more play at all!! It is actually nice to drive my truck again, except for the brakes, EGT problem, death wobble, etc . Looks like my next project is fixing a cracked frame/steering box mount which I probably caused from "testing" my shaft. Eventually I am going to drill a hole thru the shaft to put a bolt through, just for added safety.


Here are some part numbers if anyone needs them. I think they're mostly spicer numbers. Also, if you're nearby me and have a bad steering shaft, PM me and we'll make one!

Slip yoke: 10-3-13x
End yoke: 10-4-611sx
U joint: 1-0170

 

Nice! That is exactly what I need!

 

I am constantly impressed by the resourcefullness of those on this board. I have noticed that a lot of the home brewed steering shafts do not include the telescopic feature of the original. Has anyone noticed any consequence of having a solid shaft? I worry about the input bearing in the box and the cheesy plastic bushing in the bottom of the column.

 

thats a sweet pece not like that 10 doller part u buy at the dealer ship which makes the sterring nice but come back . it just like the calper sping things that make that radling nosie

 

Nice job. I've installed several just like that, fabricated by the local driveline shop. I think they're exactly the answer.

 

the only thing i would do different is not weld on the shaft, at least all the way around. i worry about making it brittle. . if you didn't want the shaft to slip how about boring a hole where the grease zerk is just into the internal shaft then tapping it and install a set screw. i had a shaft on my t-bucket break when i made the same set up . right at the weld the metal crystallized at the weld , luckily i was just moving it around the shop when it snapped.. sorry just wouldn't sleep with out warning you. nice job on finding and posting the parts and the work you do.

 

I just installed a Borgeson in my 1985 F-350, the deluxe one with the vibration damper (that they don't make for Dodges).

My old shaft was plumb dangerous/scary looking, a lot worse than I was expecting to see.

For the wife's truck, I tend to lean toward the Flaming River shaft, on account of the spring-loaded slip-shaft that absorbs impacts, cushioning all that cheapie junk in the column.

By the way, that home-made shaft looks like it should be up to the task for many years to come.

How did you find the joint with the correct splines to connect to the steering gear-box??

 

I know that there is a lot of scary stuff when it comes to welding a steering shaft. I think the majority of the problems come from people who have no idea what they are doing, i.e. using a 110V harbor freight wire feed welder on a steering shaft getting no penetration. I think it also depends on the process and the amount of time taken to weld it. Time should be taken so the metal doesn't overheat, which leads to problems. If you look at my shaft, you will see that the heat affected zone is quite small thanks to the precision of TIG welding. I wouldn't try to arc or MIG one of these things.

Also, when done correctly, I'm pretty sure this is how custom steering shafts are made, via welding. I've also got a few years of welding school under my belt and am just now starting to get my certs. I wouldn't want a weekend welder to weld a shaft, that is for sure! Thanks for the compliments and critique.

 

Thanks! I took off the old rag joint assembly and took the piece to the driveline shop. We counted the splines, measured the ID of the end yoke and he brought me parts. I love it when parts guys actually know what they are doing!

As for the guys running homemade shafts without any slip, I know that BRUISER and swank are running homemade setups. Haven't heard of any problems yet. Mine is fine but I only have 500 or so miles on it.

 

In reality, once a truck gets old enough for the owner to give the shaft a second thought, most telescoping shafts have seized themselves together.

 

Great job.. looks even better then mine

I have NO problems at all...

well over 5000 miles on mine.. shoot 600 miles just this weekend

 

gotta agree on the style of welding , tig is alot less heat intensive. one of my best friends is a master metal worker. he has been at it 30 years and he is sought after by many shops to run the places. when i have anything that is not straight forward i call on him for opinion . last month he welded up an ear that was cracked on my jd tractor. tig with nickle rod and a lifetime of workmanship he makes it look easy.. of coarse when it comes to wrenching he is calling on me. kinda makes us even. good luck on you cert. classes seems like a lifetime ago when he got his.

 

Those are some real good looking welds. You can really tell that you controlled the heat well, nice job. I only have a lame mig welder with no gas, I use it for exhaust stuff mostly , so I guess I won't be building a shaft anytime soon! Does your new shaft retain the rag joint? I ws trying to figure out why Dodge deemed it necessary anyway.

 

So how do you install it now that is has no slip? Just enough room to wiggle it in there or do you have to take the steering box loose?

The one part you list as a slip yoke. Does it have internal splines that you are not using or was it just a smooth bore?

Andy

 

Nice looking shaft.

Question for those using u joint shafts; do you notice any difference in the turning motion going from a CV type joint to a U joint? I hope my wording makes sense.

-Steve