Do i need any special tools besides generic hand tools to get what pullies off i need to get off?

Does everyone get a new crank seal?

I know nothing about crank seals, if you have any hints or links they might save mine from being ruined.

It is easy to do with the radiator still in the truck?

 

Fan wrenches help but you can get by without them, use a hammer and a punch to start the fan nut off.

If you don't get a new crank seal the old one is going to leak when you put the cover on. Change it.

The radiator is not in the way.

 

No special tools required other than the basic hand tools. A 10mm shallow socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet will remove the cover bolts as they only call for a torque spec of 18ft. lbs.

It can be done with the radiator still in place. Just be careful with the fan when pulling it out. I didn't have any idea about removing the fan last August when I did mine but, since you have to remove the hub from the block to remove the cover, you could just unbolt it with the fan still on it.

If you bought a KDP kit, it should have a new crank seal with it. Instructions should also come with the kit which explain and illustrate how to change the seal. It's really simple. Just be sure to keep the plastic sleeve that slips over the crankshaft's "snout" upon installing the front cover with the crank seal in it.

Don't forget to put a torque wrench on the internal case bolts as they've been known to work loose.

 

I reused my crank seal. 20,000 miles and not a drop of oil coming through.

 

Make sure you turn the fan the correct way when trying to remove it

Also make sure to keep the dowel in when you tab it.

 

Cut a piece of cardboard and cover the face of the radiator before removing the fan, it goes a long way in case you slip with the fan or a wrench, in protecting the radiator from damage.

 

The cardboard is a great idea. I did not replace my front crank seal and that was 5,000 miles ago.

 

X2 on the cardboard. I ALWAYS break tradition and save a lot time by removing the fan as an assembly simply by unbolting the 4 fan mounting bolts of the bracket from the block. I guess some folks just continue to enjoy taking the fan removal challenge from the hub?

Also, go to the hardware store and get 4 metric thread bolts at least 1-1/2" in length that thread into the gear housing. Cut off the heads. Thread 3 of these new alignment dowels in the crankshaft opening area and the other at the upper most right hand corner of the gear case. This lets you push the gear case cover straight on without having to fiddle around with the seal position and the cover location at the same time.

 

YES!!! This is so simple, but so smart!

 

[QUOTE=Trebor
Also, go to the hardware store and get 4 metric thread bolts at least 1-1/2" in length that thread into the gear housing. Cut off the heads. Thread 3 of these new alignment dowels in the crankshaft opening area and the other at the upper most right hand corner of the gear case. This lets you push the gear case cover straight on without having to fiddle around with the seal position and the cover location at the same time.[/QUOTE]

That is another great idea!!!

 

I gotta use those fan wrenches for something.

 

I vote this THE #1 recommendation anyone doing a KDP kit should follow!!!

Good idea on the placement of the bolts.

 

Is there something special about the seal install over the crank snout? I'm planning on a spray paint can's plastic top that is the same size and use that to hold the inner lip as I slide the timing cover on? Also, why couldn't you use the dampner's bolts to press in the new seal straight? I'll find out, Artie

 

Nothing too special other than the plastic sleeve that comes with the seal that slips over the crank snout to be sure the lip of the seal doesn't fold forward upon install.

As for seal install in the front cover, since you have the cover off, I think it's best to install the seal with the driver tool that's sent with it. That gets the seal in straight also.

 

IIRC, the lip of the seal resembles this _/tef\_ (with the crankshaft surface being down) so you need that thin clear piece of plastic that slips over the end of the crank to keep the \_ inner lip side from rolling under. The newly deposited teflon is the sealing portion of the seal as it acts like a dry lubricated dam surronded by the outsides of the remaining seal. This is why install it dry why you NEVER reuse a front or rear seal on these engines unless you have been ultra lucky in life.