As you may have read I F'd up and tried to reseal the pump, then broke stuff, and had to R&R the pump. The only good news is that the pump does actually still work, as it is spurting fuel from the lines. I can not for the life of me get the dam thing to start. I have blead and blead the lines till I was blue in the face. They would start to spray everywhere, I would tighten them down and it would try and start and pop a little, then nothing. I would then re-blead them and get a bunch of air again. I did this 10 maybe 15 times! I was also priming the fuel pump each time too. I finnaly got it running but very rough and it wouldn't barely get above 300 or 400 rpm. I ran it for maybe a minute thinking it would clear out, but it died, and then wouldn't restart, so I gave up for the evening. I'm not sure if its a air in the lines problem or what? The truck ran fine before I messed with it, and didn't have any fuel leaks other than the pump head. Is it possible that the gear jumped a tooth when I was installing the pump? Is there much room in the timing case for it to move up enough? Is there a way to check that? How can I tell if its just not getting fuel or if its out of time? Also, I'm not real sure if I have the injector lines on the pump correctly. It seams that they would only go on one way, but you could tweak a couple probably. I didn't mark them like a dumb *** since I was expecting to put it together the same day. Is there a diagram somewhere that shows the cyl number and location on the pump head? Sorry this is so long winded.. I'm just in over my head here.

Thanks,
Jason

 

What has happened to several guys is that they didn't get the keyways lined up quite right. Tightening the nut shears the key and the timing winds up way off. Sounds like that's what happened to you.

 

This exact thing happened to me last night. After 10 minutes of extra bleeding, I finally noticed a lack of wires going to my pump. Check your shutoff solenoid to make sure it has power.

 

I have power to the solenoid. I'm pretty sure I got the keyway in, as it just so happened the position of the engine when I had shut it off was so the keyway was towards the block. I could see it and the shaft while I put it in. Any other suggestions?

Jason

 

A lot of the time, the engine stops at a point where the pump-cam is under spring-pressure.

When the pump is re-assembled, it has a tendency to roll off of the lobe and into the valley, thus causing the key to be off about half a tooth.

When the pump bolts get tightened, the soft key sort of conforms to the wrong position; and, this is hard to detect, without removing the pump and inspecting.


It is very important to LOCK the pump-shaft with the lock-screw, BEFORE loosening anything, then SCRIBE a very accurate mark on the shaft and housing.


I had to hold the completed pump in a vise, while rotating the shaft against spring pressure by using a wrench on the big nut, in order to get the marks lined up and the shaft locked.


This may or may not be your situation at all.

Hope this helps.

 

That's the situation I think we have here.

 

well i got it running, but it smokes white smoke all the time. I took it for a drive, and while it sounded ok idling, it would clatter really loud under any acceleration. Obviously the timing is screwed up. I'm guessing it may have jumped a tooth? I see what your saying about the keyway, but if the pump did move after I took it out (springing over like your saying) wouldn't it not mater since I can align the pump to go into the keyway slot in the gear, and move the pump from there? No mater what way I moved the pump after it was running, it still ran the same. I would expect if the pump was off half a key, you would be able to correct that by moving the pump in the slots. How do I tell if the gear is off? Are there dots or alignment marks between the pump gear and the one that drives it? Based on the white smoke and clattering, is that advanced or retarded or how do you tell? Also, around 2k rpm's, it wanted to kind of cut out. I don't know what the hell to do with it. It did sound ok while idling, but while I was messing with it, it just quit, and now nothing comes from the injector lines when I crank it. I can hear the shut off solenoid making noise when I touch the connector to it, but is there a way to test it? I don't know if its just my bad luck that it crapped out just now or the pump just blew up. It shut off quickly, like if you turned the key, it didn't really spit and sputter too much.

Thanks for any help.

Jason

 

I really don't know what to do next, I'm thinking just pull off the timing case and look at the gears/pump shaft to see what moved.

Jason

 

It's retarded. What I think happened is you have the key mashed about halfway in the keyway. Pull the nut off the pump shaft and take a good look.

 

I wouldn't be able to make up the difference by twisting the pump towards the head? What worries me is it ran the same no matter what way I turned the pump...

Any suggestion on the shutoff solenoid?

thanks to all for the help

Jason

 

Remove the solinoid and pull the spring and plunger out. Then reinstall the solinoid. Now the solinoid does nothing, you can shut the fuel off with the lever on the side of the Injector pump.

 

ok thanks for the info!

 

I'm going to pull the pump again tomorrow. Is it possible the gear jumped or is that hard to do in the case?

Jason

 

If you lift the gear you can move it all the way around. I had problems with this as my new pump did not line up were I thought it should and had to move it a tooth. Make sure the fuel line in to the pump is tight and the fitting that screws into the pump. Also check the return bango bolt screen for bit's of any thing. Clean it and reinstall.

 

Thanks for the suggestion. I did check the return banjo once already, before I got it started. The fuel line into the pump hasn't been removed. I'm thinking the keyway is smushed and its off. How are you supposed to install the pump without that happening? I could see the keyway and pump shaft plain as day when I installed it. After I had the pump half way bolted up, I rocked it just to make sure it was engaged on the key. Obviously it still screwed up. Is there some trick to prevent this from happening?

Jason