How I installed a 2nd gen intercooler into a non-IC truck, with basic hand tools
01-12-2008, 09:30 PM
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How I installed a 2nd gen intercooler into a non-IC truck, with basic hand tools
Basic tools ( Hammer Screw drive, Pliers Ratchet extension and socket set) 3/8 Drill, Hole saw, Hack saw or Jig saw, Tap and Dye set (5/16 or 3/8 NC tap is all you will need from this set) and a 3/8 Drill Bit Set...........O yeah a tape measure.
Open hood remove several screw from hood latch area, one screw each form behind turn signal assembly, and 4 screw from lower gill insert area.
Open hood remove several screw from hood latch area, one screw each form behind turn signal assembly, and 4 screw from lower gill insert area.
Every thing will be the same for all 89-90......Except the grill area.
It is possible to put this intercooler into a 91.5-93.........How ever, it would require that most,.. or at least some of the radiator support reinforcement to be removed, as it would be in the way of the cooler inlet/outlets.................... also, the spec below, would be way off and cause you to drill a large hole that you can't use (91.5 - 93 only)..................
here is a picture of my 2nt gen intercooler installed (lower part of pic) and a 91.5 -93 look thru the grill. upper part.
The top grill insert is the up Right or passenger side.
The lower portion of the pic is, R lower grill insert.
As you can see thru the grill inserts, the reinforcement would be in the way!
For this reason i would recommend the Ford P/S intercooler for 91-5 - 93 trucks (it is also in the sticky!!)
Now that the grill had been removed, center support , lower surround , and front bumper.
NOTE 1: There will be several time that i will ask you to do something that I did not do or did Differently.
There is good reason for this..............My truck was the first draft, and you will gain from my mistake if you will .....DO AS I SAY, NOT AS I DO Ha ha ha :'}
NOTE 2: All left (L) and right ( R ) will be as you are sitting in the drivers seat.
There is good reason for this..............My truck was the first draft, and you will gain from my mistake if you will .....DO AS I SAY, NOT AS I DO Ha ha ha :'}
NOTE 2: All left (L) and right ( R ) will be as you are sitting in the drivers seat.
Now, find the lower A/C condenser bolt mount, on the drivers side or left side. Measure from center of bolt, over 1- 7/8” then up 1-1/2” this will be the center for the drill bit in your hole saw. The drawing shows 4-1/8......if you can go 4-1/4 or even 4-1/2 it would be better. But you will have to make this decision. I drilled mine several years ago to 3” and you can't us a hole saw to go bigger once you have made the hole. So make sure on the size before you drill.
Passenger side or Right side with be the same, only from center of lower bolt going out will be 1-11/16 and then up 1-9/16.
L side of radiator
R side of radiator
R side of radiator
As you can see the pictures show one at 4-1/8 and the 2nt at 4-1/2.... ONLY BUY ONE SIZE!!!.
"DO NOT" GO OUT AND BUY TWO DIFFERENT HOLES SAW BLADES.
If the hole saw is going to cut into the radiator support, that is fine! As lone as the hole saw is only cutting the outer U shape of the radiator support bracket, your golden (good:-)) Even if it cut into the flat part of the support a 1/16"you will be fine and will make shifting the inter cooler around, that much easier
"DO NOT" GO OUT AND BUY TWO DIFFERENT HOLES SAW BLADES.
If the hole saw is going to cut into the radiator support, that is fine! As lone as the hole saw is only cutting the outer U shape of the radiator support bracket, your golden (good:-)) Even if it cut into the flat part of the support a 1/16"you will be fine and will make shifting the inter cooler around, that much easier
Note: do not move hole saw over to accomplish this clearance. The drill bit in the center of the hole saw must, be as showed above.
Grill insert attachment lug must be remove (blue
arrow) as well as the back side of grill, (Black).
The Right side get similar treatment.
The next two photos ^ above^ show the center modification required .Leave the lug intact were the arrows show. This way the grill can be reattached in the lower center part of the grill.
The taller two ears as showed above should be removed.(black with out a arrow)
The taller two ears as showed above should be removed.(black with out a arrow)
NOTE: The lower, 2 screw that attach's the grill to the lower surround MUST BE SHORTENED, or they will puncture the intercooler.
There is two version of the 2nt gen intercoolers, 94-98 that has a core of 15 and 1/2" tall. The 99 and newer(24V) has a one inch taller core. that will need some massaging done to this here latch. If your going with the newer cooler.
There is also extra fabbing required later on, if you choose the larger one!
There is also extra fabbing required later on, if you choose the larger one!
01-13-2008, 01:20 AM
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[/url]When you us your hole saw, it should look just like this (lower part of upper picture).............except YOURS will be 4+ inches instead of 3 inches, and yours will be a lot less hacked then mine.
Now, the black,........ Yeah, don't cut that far in and leave the 2 middle bracket for the grill, as was showed above.
The lower surround trimming need to be extended further out as the red indicates.......on both sides. Don't worry the grill will hide all of your art work ;-}
I did not remove my front bumper...........TRUST ME, you will save a lot more time removing the bumper and the lower surround in the long run!
After you have cut you 4-1/8+ holes, test fit the inter cooler inlet/outlet for fit. You will see that the round hole is going to need some notches cut in the top and bottom of the round hole.
Once again you will need to decide how wide and how deep they should go. Word of caution, on the passenger side. Remove the coolant over flow bottle. One, because you will be drilling a hole right threw that area and 2nt the upward cut will go all the way to the bottom of the bottle. If the bottle is there, you will cut a nice hole in it!!!!!
O, if you still have the spare tire jack and bracket down there, you may need to remove that also.
Once again you will need to decide how wide and how deep they should go. Word of caution, on the passenger side. Remove the coolant over flow bottle. One, because you will be drilling a hole right threw that area and 2nt the upward cut will go all the way to the bottom of the bottle. If the bottle is there, you will cut a nice hole in it!!!!!
O, if you still have the spare tire jack and bracket down there, you may need to remove that also.
In the lower half, of the lower picture, above,^..................^......................^. ..........
RED represent, kinda, what yours should look like when done
PURPLE is what i did to mine.......and as you can see the coolant over flow bottle will be in the way.
You have already remove that center support,....Right.
The picture below shows a 2nt gen lower inter cooler bracket, there are 2 of then. A round, and and a oval holed one. Theses are still available from the deal but if you are getting one from the wrecking yard. Might as well pick up the lower bracket and rubber insulators while your there.
The 3 to 4 inch, inlet/outlet boots are way, way expense form the dealer .
The most cost affective way to do this project would be to get all the tubes, clamp and pipes from the Wrecking yard.............for that matter, talk then out of the Hx35 Turbo and elbow. Now you have every thing you need for this project..............Well almost.........will get to that latter..............
The most cost affective way to do this project would be to get all the tubes, clamp and pipes from the Wrecking yard.............for that matter, talk then out of the Hx35 Turbo and elbow. Now you have every thing you need for this project..............Well almost.........will get to that latter..............
When we install these lower brackets they will be swapped side for side (left bracket will be installed on right side and,...... of courses right will now, be installed on the left side.
My plan was to fit these lower mounts and then, get a tape measure out to give you spec, so you could get it in the right place.
Well it became simpler then that!!!!!!
See the oval hole that the two top arrows are pointing too. Line up the brackets outer, lower edge with the oval holes inner edge......and it is in the exact spot you need.
Center punch or mark the center of both holes, move bracket out of the way and drill two holes.
If your going to us a 3/8 then drill a hole 2 sizes smaller then 3/8 and if you decide to go with 5/16 then drill the holes two drill sizes smaller then 5/16.
get your 5/16 or 3/8 course threaded tap and make your self some threads!
If your going to us a 3/8 then drill a hole 2 sizes smaller then 3/8 and if you decide to go with 5/16 then drill the holes two drill sizes smaller then 5/16.
get your 5/16 or 3/8 course threaded tap and make your self some threads!
The holes that are just sheet metal thick, just snug up the bolts, as there isn't a lot of thread there, were there is the added metal support you will be able to snug them real good.
Note my hacked hole,.......... this side didn't turn out to bad, but the passenger side below. didn't fair so well
Same story here, inner oval edge lined with outer, lower edge of bracket. As you can see here, the oval hole in the bracket. If you are slightly off with your alignment's .......the oval hole in the bracket will compensate, making a good fit.
Now, before you go to fitting you inter cooler into place. There is several areas on the inter cooler that need to be modified and will be much easier out of the vehicle then in, like i did.
Now, before you go to fitting you inter cooler into place. There is several areas on the inter cooler that need to be modified and will be much easier out of the vehicle then in, like i did.
The lower 2 ribs on each side of the inter cooler will have to be shaved flush with the tank. The bottom one will need to be smooth in, or over 1-1/2”. The 2nt rib up, well need to be mostly rounded on the corner, and in about 1/2".
One more thing before we go into the cooler mods. There is a couple of washers between the frame and that bracket,on the R side. The frame curves at this point requires the flat washer to keep the bracket square.
OK them, bottom 2 ribs need to be removed........or your going to have too get more intense cutting the grill up. The bottom rib is in the way of the lower surround and clearance issues are a little bit tighter on the passenger sided, then on the drivers side.
Below in BROWN, Upper picture) is a bracket that must be remove........Before it gets a chance to brake your gill 
LIGHT BLUE, is a lug that need to be remove as close to flush as you can. The Black arrow is pointing to the lug that just got removed
LIGHT BLUE, is a lug that need to be remove as close to flush as you can. The Black arrow is pointing to the lug that just got removed
GREEN is the ear that i use to attach the top of the Inter cooler.
BLUE is the only option to attach the top half of the cooler if you went with the 16 ½ cooler, as the newer ones did not have the upper mount (Green)
If you went with the 15-1/2” cooler just lop off the middle ear (Blue) as it will be in the way.
If your using the 16-1/2 then the Blue bracket will need to be shave(Made thinner) and bent to clear the grill......Or a lot more chopping of the grill will be required.
Right side with the same treatment. Don't forget to trim the 2 lower ribs on each side.
If your using the 16-1/2 then the Blue bracket will need to be shave(Made thinner) and bent to clear the grill......Or a lot more chopping of the grill will be required.
Right side with the same treatment. Don't forget to trim the 2 lower ribs on each side.
If you are using the larger intercooler, this will need to be completely remove.
If you are going with the smaller one, all you need to do is insulate the the cooler from this bracket.
If you are going with the smaller one, all you need to do is insulate the the cooler from this bracket.
How, ever this is not what i did with mine. The choice is yours, if you want to fallow me through, the muddy waters of my next step!!!!!
Note: the bolt would go thru the cooler tube this way.
Top of pic, red lines is were i cut down with a saw, just before flush with inter cooler. Pink circles is how i stared removing piece of the top plate of the inter cooler. from there i used pliers and broke little pieces of alu until it was far enough in to slide the nut zert in.( this nut zert and bolt are the same one that you removed when the center support was taken out. the nut zert is simply remove, turned around and re-installed.) The bolt will be installed down through the bracket.
care should be taken removing the fins under this plate as you don't want to create a leak. I used needle nose pliers and broke it loose from the top of the plate and just smashed it flat on the bottom so it would fit.
Note: the bolt would go thru the cooler tube this way.
Top of pic, red lines is were i cut down with a saw, just before flush with inter cooler. Pink circles is how i stared removing piece of the top plate of the inter cooler. from there i used pliers and broke little pieces of alu until it was far enough in to slide the nut zert in.( this nut zert and bolt are the same one that you removed when the center support was taken out. the nut zert is simply remove, turned around and re-installed.) The bolt will be installed down through the bracket.
care should be taken removing the fins under this plate as you don't want to create a leak. I used needle nose pliers and broke it loose from the top of the plate and just smashed it flat on the bottom so it would fit.
Middle pic shows the drilling of the plate. Extreme caution should be taken here as one slip and you have a BIG boost leak. note the spacer that i used to keep the drill bit from going to far.
Third for of this pic shoes how the bolt is two long. if you grind down the beginning of the bolt all the way up to the threaded part it will clear with a washer.
I keep installing the bolt until there was clearance between the bolt and the inter cooler top tube............then i add a washer for extra insurance.
01-13-2008, 08:37 PM
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And this is what it looks like when finished.
After I had ground the bolt short enough to clear the intercooler tube...........I added a washer for extra insurance
Black arrow above^^^^
View from top
Once you have decide how you are going to do this mod,....or not, and have finished it.
Now you can decide how long of a bolt you need. How long of a spacer you will need, and its time to drill a hole to match you upper ear you will be using.
Note the two black arrows........thats the coolant bottle that you have already remove..........Right?
The head of the bolt will clear the over flow bottle with a small nut to space it out and still keep the same screws. There is actually a small pocket that the head of the bolt can.......Almost hide in.
Before you snug these screws,put a piece of card board or some thing to create a air gap between the bottle and the intercooler tube.......Yes it is that close!!!!!!!
Black arrow is the head of the intercooler bolt, greenish blue arrow is the small nut i used for a spacer. the Screw you can see and the one directly below it, are the only spacing that was needed
This is looking from under neath the truck, up words. the top has a lot more room.
When i get some more time, I will go into the fitting of the tubes, boots clamps , exhaust, and turbo.
After I had ground the bolt short enough to clear the intercooler tube...........I added a washer for extra insurance
Black arrow above^^^^View from top
Once you have decide how you are going to do this mod,....or not, and have finished it.
Now you can decide how long of a bolt you need. How long of a spacer you will need, and its time to drill a hole to match you upper ear you will be using.
Note the two black arrows........thats the coolant bottle that you have already remove..........Right?
The head of the bolt will clear the over flow bottle with a small nut to space it out and still keep the same screws. There is actually a small pocket that the head of the bolt can.......Almost hide in.
Before you snug these screws,put a piece of card board or some thing to create a air gap between the bottle and the intercooler tube.......Yes it is that close!!!!!!!
Black arrow is the head of the intercooler bolt, greenish blue arrow is the small nut i used for a spacer. the Screw you can see and the one directly below it, are the only spacing that was needed
This is looking from under neath the truck, up words. the top has a lot more room.
When i get some more time, I will go into the fitting of the tubes, boots clamps , exhaust, and turbo.
01-13-2008, 10:15 PM
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Wow!! Great post. I have most of the parts (including a '98 intercooler) gathered up to intercool my '90 Non I/C truck and this just might be the kick in the pants I needed to get started. Thanks!!!
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01-13-2008, 10:53 PM
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Thanks for the vote of confidence, but theres still a lot more to be reveled before it finished.
01-14-2008, 06:31 PM
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is the radiator support diffent on a non intercooler and one out of a 91 that has one i wont the biger intercooler i did see that the ac condencer is mounted to the intercooler
01-14-2008, 08:52 PM
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Which intercooler is bigger, 1st or 2nt gen?........2nt gen for sure!
Is the radiator support different between a 91.0 and 91.5 (intercooled)????? I'm not sure
is the 91 non, radiator support the same as the 92-93 or is it the same as the 89-90????????? My educated guess is that it go's from 89-91 and 91.5-93 radiator supports.
The only thing from keeping me for saying the above statement is "for sure" is ..............Why do people with 89-90 trucks always looking for 91 or newer radiator supports and grill????????
Will the 91 grill fit on a 89-90 truck.............why wouldn't it?????fenders are the same. if it won't then the radiator support is different. and if this was true then that would mean that mine is a intercooled radiator support with out the holes drill in it.............righ? (mine had no holes originally).......but the newer ones have a smaller, more efficient, cross flow radiator................so the mount would be different then my 91.0
As you can see, i can't answer your question,.............but i do need to be able to answer you question before this write up is done!!!!
hopefully some one will post up a couple of pic 90 and older and 92 and newer so this can be answered..............Hmmmm dose any body have a Link to some kind of on line "body shop" parts store,...............if were could get the part number of the three years in question 90,91 and 92-.........that would sure clear thing up........
O by the way the ac condenser is mounted in its stock location, it is NOT attached to the intercooler.
Sorry about the long winded post
Flash
01-14-2008, 10:38 PM
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Well i have been google "Truck radiator support "...........found several sites that had a 83(?)to 90 radiator supports. no 91,92 or 93.
I will try and get some #### from the local dodge dealer. he hates it, when i have him look up a bunch of stuff, he know i'm not going to buy
If i can get him to give me the the part numbers for a 90-91-92,.......this should answer you question, cabtruck, as well as my own questioning
For those waiting on more pic's and story..........Probably won't get back to that untill this week end...............
I will try and get some #### from the local dodge dealer. he hates it, when i have him look up a bunch of stuff, he know i'm not going to buy
If i can get him to give me the the part numbers for a 90-91-92,.......this should answer you question, cabtruck, as well as my own questioning
For those waiting on more pic's and story..........Probably won't get back to that untill this week end...............
01-15-2008, 04:24 PM
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Well i have been google "Truck radiator support "...........found several sites that had a 83(?)to 90 radiator supports. no 91,92 or 93.
I will try and get some #### from the local dodge dealer. he hates it, when i have him look up a bunch of stuff, he know i'm not going to buy
If i can get him to give me the the part numbers for a 90-91-92,.......this should answer you question, cabtruck, as well as my own questioning
For those waiting on more pic's and story..........Probably won't get back to that untill this week end...............
I will try and get some #### from the local dodge dealer. he hates it, when i have him look up a bunch of stuff, he know i'm not going to buy
If i can get him to give me the the part numbers for a 90-91-92,.......this should answer you question, cabtruck, as well as my own questioning
For those waiting on more pic's and story..........Probably won't get back to that untill this week end...............
91 non intercooled #83507 225
91-93 intercooled #4746 623
Wasn't thinking, that if, the only difference between a 91 non, and intercooled was just a hole.........They would still have to change the part ####
,Well, it's a start...........I'm just going to have to get my hand under the hood of a 91.5-93................................................ ..If any one has a pic with the grill off of a intecooled, this would help
EDIT: OK, have done some more digging, the lower AC bolt is in the same location 89-91.0 or non intercooled.........so the spec above will work perfice!!!!.........It might even work for those of you that have a 91.0-93......BUT there may be a support in the way something.
01-20-2008, 11:00 PM
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OK time has been found.
Time to back up and double check a few things
Your Intercooler is mounted, you have check that the A/C condenser and the intercooler has some air clearance every ware,(If not, you will need to add a washer behind the lower mount ,BUT the more you space the cooler out, the more modification that will need to be done to the intercooler and or grill/surround !!!!!!)
Center support is hacked completely off,??????(24v inter cooler) Trimmed, or insulated RIGHT?
Lower surround has air gap when bolted tight ,RIGHT?
Lower surround has air gap when bolted tight ,RIGHT?
Good! Now lets work on the there side of this radiator support!............................O all right, a couple more pictures.
As the picture said.....................................
and below is what your lower surround will look like if you don't trim the ribs off of the lower half of the intercooler
The rib in “black” and the next one down, Round the corners.
The bottom rib need to be smooth inward as was showed earlier.
Here you see my hack job. But more important is the white insulation that i use to make sure there will be NO rubbing between the bottom of the over flow bottle and cooler, before you tighten the over flow bottle up.
OK enough of that, lets talk turbos!!!!!
Obvious, you Can't us your stock turbo...........at least not in stock form!!!!!!!!
first gen^^^^^^ non Intercooled Green Arrow above= 3” inlet Black= V band out let, Red= hose and clamp for crossover.(non waste gated exhaust housing)
If you are determined to keep your trusty little old h1c, and it has never given you any problems and is still in good working order................You can!......... BUT that compressor housing has got to go!!! HTT and others sell a up grade for your compressor side of the turbo. You will have to call and get the details,..........JUST MAKE SURE YOU GET THE "INTERCOOLED" OUTLET HOUSING!!!!!!!!(V band)
"NO MATTER WHICH TURBO YOU CHOOSE YOU WILL NEED THE ELBOW THAT GO'S,FROM THE OUTLET OF THE TURBO, AND THE PIPING."
"H1c" (91.5-93)
Black V band clamp, Green, is were the clamp go's. Red shows that it is a NON waste gated turbine housing, and has a V band compressor outlet......(arrow not shown)
All h1c come with a v clamp that hold the compressor housing to the turbo.....that the red arrow is kind of pointing to alls
"H1c" (91.5-93)
Your next choice would be a stock, intercooled H1c...........Modification?..........0.. "Just bolt it in!"
see picture above^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
................................(94) (95-98)
12 valve"2nt gen" (Wh1c )(HX35) Blue arrows=4" compressor inlet. Green=compressor and exhaust outlet "V band" Black= waste gate actuator on hot side of turbo Wh1c would be smiler Sorry don't have a picture of it.
“Wh1c” or “12v HX35” (94-98)
For mounting purpose, these two are identical. The only modification would be to move your exhaust back ½ of and inch. Moving this back, may or may not cause some small exhaust clearance problems.
